A&F Quarterly
| Company type | Lifestyle magazine, promotional platform |
|---|---|
| Industry | Publishing, Fashion marketing |
| Founded | 1997 |
| Defunct | 2003 (original American run) |
| Fate | Ceased publication; relaunched in 2008 (Europe) and 2010 (global) |
| Headquarters | New Albany , United States |
Area served | United States, Europe, Global (2010 relaunch) |
Key people | Savas Abadsidis (editor-in-chief), Sam Shahid (creative director), Bruce Weber (photographer) |
| Products | Magazine featuring fashion photography, lifestyle content, celebrity interviews |
| Parent | Abercrombie & Fitch |
A&F Quarterly was a lifestyle magazine produced by Abercrombie & Fitch aimed at college students aged 18 to 22, serving as a promotional platform. Showcasing photo shoots by A&F’s photographer Bruce Weber, the publication featured content on lifestyle topics, sexuality, entertainment, travel, dining experiences, and celebrity interviews.
The magazine’s portrayal of nudity and sexual themes generated significant debate. Throughout its American publication span from 1997 to 2003, it was lauded as a clever marketing strategy that "reimagined the All-American image for teenagers," yet simultaneously faced criticism labeling it as "soft porn" and provocative. Moral and religious organizations such as the National Coalition for the Protection of Children and Families and Focus on the Family initiated several lawsuits and boycotts against it.
In 2003, Abercrombie & Fitch ceased publication of A&F Quarterly, but later introduced a limited edition solely for the European market in 2008. The magazine made a comeback in 2010 within the Back-to-School campaign, marking its first globally distributed issue.
At its height, circulation numbers reached approximately 1.2 million copies, with around 200,000 copies sold in stores at a price of US$6 each and subscriptions available for $12 annually. Advertising placements were made in magazines including Interview, Out, Rolling Stone, and Vanity Fair.
Introduction as a "magalog"
Conceived as a marketing instrument, A&F Quarterly sought to embody Abercrombie & Fitch’s brand identity by linking it to youthfulness and sensuality—capturing the "neo-preppy and quintessential American ideal." It uniquely blended magazine editorial with catalog sales, targeting college-aged consumers with an emphasis on youthful enjoyment and sexual expression.
The magazine was developed by fashion marketing professionals Savas Abadsidis (editor-in-chief), Sam Shahid (creative director), alongside photographer Bruce Weber. Weber’s photography incorporated erotic elements without explicit frontal nudity, exploring both heterosexual and homosexual motifs.
Launched in June 1997, it rapidly gained traction. Issues were published quarterly to coincide with A&F’s seasonal fashion lines ("Spring Break", "Summer", "Back-to-School", "Christmas"). Over time, the content became increasingly explicit. Retail locations implemented age verification measures and obscured cover images featuring nudity; nonetheless, concerns emerged regarding younger audiences accessing the material.
A&F representative Hampton Carney described the magazine as showcasing "beautiful fashion photography... clean, sexy," resonating with their target demographic.
Legal battle with American Eagle
In 1998, Abercrombie & Fitch filed suit against competitor American Eagle Outfitters, accusing them of duplicating clothing designs, advertising setups, and catalog aesthetics. The court favored American Eagle, determining that A&F’s trade dress was too commonplace to warrant protection under the Lanham Act. The appellate decision highlighted that although A&F’s catalog employed grainy images of attractive young models posed erotically under Bruce Weber’s styling, there was no substantial risk of consumer confusion between the two catalogs.
Controversies and public backlash
The 1998 "Back-to-School" edition included recipes for alcoholic beverages and a drinking game, provoking criticism from groups such as Mothers Against Drunk Driving. In response, A&F removed these sections and issued an apology.
In 1999, Illinois lieutenant governor Corinne Wood advocated for a boycott due to sexually explicit holiday content featuring nude photographs and an interview with adult film actress Jenna Jameson. The attorney general of Michigan also raised concerns about sexual content accessible to minors. Four states threatened legal proceedings over these issues.
By 2001, cultural conservatives and feminist groups protested nude beach photography and interviews with adult entertainer Ron Jeremy. The Back-to-School 2001 issue contained provocative imagery inspired by collegiate skinny-dipping traditions. Following the events of 9/11, no Christmas issue was published out of respect for sensitivities.
Creative Director Sam Shahid stated in 2003 that they remained steadfast in their editorial direction despite criticism.
Advertising Beyond A&F
Beginning in the summer of 2002, Abercrombie & Fitch began offering limited advertising space within the Quarterly to external brands such as Sony (promoting PlayStation 2), SoBe, The WB Television Network (highlighting Smallville), and Trek Bicycle Corporation. These advertisers aimed to engage A&F’s targeted consumer base.
Termination
The Christmas 2003 edition—spanning 280 pages and titled David Abercrombie & Ezra Fitch's Christmas Field Guide—sparked significant controversy due to explicit themes involving group sexual content. The editor issued an apology acknowledging grievances from organizations including the Catholic League and National Organization for Women. Public backlash escalated, with former models alleging coercion to pose nude or provocatively.
On December 9, 2003, Abercrombie & Fitch declared the discontinuation of the Quarterly, attributing the decision to CEO Mike Jeffries’ loss of interest. Remaining copies were withdrawn from retail outlets or distributed solely to existing subscribers. The company shifted focus toward campaigns emphasizing traditional aesthetics.
Reports indicated the editor-in-chief was dismissed before the magazine ceased publication, reportedly over creative disagreements. Analysts generally supported this move amid declining retail performance, suggesting resources could be better allocated to core apparel operations. Nonetheless, some critics expressed doubts regarding the brand’s future marketing directions.
Intermission (2004–2007)
Issues no longer in print became sought-after collectibles, commanding premium prices on auction sites like eBay. In 2004, A&F introduced a toned-down publication featuring emerging celebrities but discontinued it shortly thereafter.
Context
In 2008, Abercrombie & Fitch reintroduced the A&F Quarterly exclusively for the UK audience, where cultural attitudes were comparatively more permissive. The London flagship store on Savile Row had demonstrated strong performance since its debut.
Vice president Tom Lennox characterized the revamped edition as more sophisticated and intellectual than its American predecessor while retaining elements of controversy. The original creative team reunited for this release, which included content on travel, dining, fashionable neighborhoods, and contributions from Tyler Brule of Wallpaper magazine.
Child welfare advocates raised concerns about potential risks associated with sexually suggestive material aimed at teenagers within the context of the UK’s prevalent alcohol culture.
Publication Details
Issued on April 5, 2008, under the title Return to Paradise, this limited hardcover edition (500 copies priced at £100 each) showcased Bruce Weber’s opulent photography centered on a "Paradise" theme incorporating exotic plants and symbolic references to Adam and Eve. Demand surpassed availability; resale prices more than doubled original retail value.
2010 Revival
As part of Abercrombie & Fitch’s Back-to-School campaign in 2010 named "Screen Test," the Quarterly was relaunched globally through A&F retail locations worldwide.
Following discreet online previews in late 2009 and early 2010 featuring seasonal photo series themed around the FIERCE fragrance, A&F officially announced the relaunch via Facebook in June 2010. The publication emphasized hallmark features: sculpted physiques, attractive models, and provocative imagery. Photographer Bruce Weber returned exclusively for this edition, which was shot in February 2010.
The campaign drew inspiration from Hollywood screen tests spotlighting emerging young talent consistent with A&F’s brand identity.
Industry experts regarded the relaunch as a calculated move to stimulate sales after revenue declines during the late-2000s recession. Although some questioned its timing given youth engagement with digital media trends, optimism prevailed due to recent sales gains linked to previous Quarterly editions.
The new issue was priced at $10 USD for a 176-page volume available for online pre-order, with age verification enforced at purchase due to suggestive material.
American
Between 1997 and 2003, Abercrombie & Fitch produced 25 editions of A&F Quarterly for the U.S. market, with several subtitles omitted. Notably, no issue was published for the Christmas season in 2001. A comprehensive archive of these editions is maintained at Duke University’s Rubenstein Library.
European
In Spring Break 2008, a special limited edition was issued exclusively for the European market under the title Return to Paradise, available solely at Abercrombie & Fitch’s London flagship location.
Global
The 2010 revival of the publication, renamed Screen Test, represented the brand’s inaugural global release, distributed across A&F’s worldwide retail outlets.
See also
External links
- Dan Reines, "The Abercrombie & Fitch Catalog Index," Nerve, June 11, 2002.
- Isabelle Kohn, "Sex, Lies and Cheap Cologne: An Oral History of Abercrombie & Fitch's Softcore Porn Mag," Mel, August 14, 2020.