Bernardo Sandals
| Company type | Private |
|---|---|
| Industry | Footwear, Fashion |
| Founded | 1946 |
| Founder | Bernard Rudofsky, Berta Rudofsky |
| Headquarters | New York City , United States |
| Products | Sandals, Footwear, Accessories |
Bernardo Sandals was established in 1946 by architect Bernard Rudofsky alongside Berta Rudofsky. Their entry into sandal design stemmed from Bernard Rudofsky’s 1944 exhibition "Are Clothes Modern?" held at the Museum of Modern Art in New York City.
Description
The sandal designs embodied concepts taught by Bertha at Black Mountain College. According to Monika Platzer in Lessons from Bernard Rudofsky, Rudofsky advocated for sandals as "non-concealing footwear" that went beyond typical fashion trends, contrasting sharply with enclosed shoes which he criticized as "foot-deformers."
The debut collection, introduced at Manhattan's Ritz Carlton Hotel, consisted of six styles featuring flat leather soles and multiple straps. It gained immediate popularity; by the 1950s and 1960s, prestigious fashion publications such as Vogue and Harper's Bazaar frequently highlighted Bernardo sandals. Notably, by the 1960s, Jackie Kennedy was said to own sixteen color variations of a single design. Presently, the Bernardo range still includes several original models, all handcrafted in Brazil.
Growth
In 1953, Dino Sonnino purchased Bernardo Sandals from co-founder Aldo Bruzzichelli. Bernard Rudofsky remained on as designer for an additional year before returning to Italy to continue his architectural pursuits. At that time, the company operated as a modest enterprise with a four-person workshop located in Tribeca, New York City.
Eva Sonnino, Dino’s wife who brought experience from Milan’s fashion scene, initially took on the role of interim designer but soon secured the position permanently. Under Dino’s business guidance and Eva’s creative direction, Bernardo transformed from a small-scale manufacturer into America’s premier sandal brand. Eva earned the Neiman Marcus award for best women’s shoe designer in 1967 and frequently crafted exclusive designs for Vogue and Harper's Bazaar, including a notable gold sandal featured alongside the James Bond movie "Goldfinger."
In 1967, Eva created knee-to-hip strapped sandals for a Vogue editorial starring supermodel Verushka and actress Tippy Hedren from Alfred Hitchcock’s "The Birds." This exposure elevated Bernardo’s reputation among fashionable consumers and college students alike, as documented in 'The Official Preppy Handbook.'
Special collections
By the mid-1960s, Eva Sonnino was designing exclusive collections to complement Emilio Pucci evening garments. Impressed by her innovative work and Dino Sonnino’s business acumen, Pucci invited them to move their headquarters near his Tuscan estate, offering a villa and design studios to facilitate expansion into accessories such as handbags. The Sonninos declined this offer, choosing instead to maintain their simpler lifestyle in New York City.
During these years, Bernardo Sandals broadened its manufacturing footprint beyond New York—from a small workshop on Walker Street to a larger facility on East 22nd Street—and established additional production sites in upstate New York, Italy, and Spain, with future plans for Mexico and Brazil. Approaching retirement in their late fifties, Dino and Eva contemplated succession options. They proposed leadership to their son Edward Sonnino, who had some familiarity with the company but opted not to take over due to limited interest and confidence in the fashion industry.
Company sold
Facing the absence of a successor, the Sonnino family sought to transfer ownership. Although Revlon submitted the highest offer, it was limited to restricted stock. Ultimately, Bernardo was purchased by R.G. Barry Corporation, recognized for their machine-washable slippers under the "DearFoams" brand, with intentions to expand Bernardo’s high-fashion label into a larger-scale operation. However, under R.G. Barry’s leadership, Bernardo experienced a decline due to insufficient expertise in luxury fashion marketing, advertising, and crucial connections with influential publications such as Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar—elements essential for enhancing brand exposure and capturing market share.
The most renowned and successful Bernardo designs originated from Eva Sonnino. From the mid-1960s onward, Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar consistently acknowledged her as the brand’s lead designer. While Eva directed the creative vision, Dino’s managerial abilities—including his initial role as chief salesman—were instrumental in transforming Bernardo from obscurity into a fashion icon within fifteen years. Their joint strategic guidance laid a robust foundation that, if preserved by an experienced buyer during the late 1960s, could have ensured Bernardo's enduring leadership in women’s premium footwear and accessories.
1990
By 1990, under the ownership of the Slaughter Brothers from Dallas, Texas, Bernardo Footwear had experienced a downturn in both price point and craftsmanship. The sandals were produced entirely from synthetic materials with manufacturing relocated to China, and retail prices ranged between $25 and $35. The Slaughter Brothers discontinued the brand entirely in 1993.
In 2001, Texan retailer Roy Smith collaborated with Florence-based designer Dennis Comeau, formerly affiliated with Prada, to reacquire Bernardo's rights. They revitalized the brand by returning to premium all-leather products crafted in Italy and increased retail prices beyond $100. Within a few years, Bernardo reemerged in prestigious retailers such as Neiman Marcus, Bloomingdale’s, Harrods, and Fred Segal. The brand bolstered its market presence through endorsements from celebrities including Reese Witherspoon, Hilary Duff, Jessica Alba, and Halle Berry.
In 2009, Comeau introduced "Bernardo Vintage Couture," a high-end collection priced between $250 and $600. This line secured distribution in top-tier international retailers like Dover Street Market (London), Jeffrey and Bergdorf Goodman (New York), 10 Corso Como (Milan), as well as Harvey Nichols locations across the UK and Asia.
2011
Bernardo Footwear changed hands again in 2011 when investors led by Peter Cooper acquired the company. Cooper initiated a comprehensive rebranding campaign that included developing the current brand identity along with the signature loop logo. He also launched the Bernardo 1946 collection, which revived Italian-made heritage designs from the 1950s and 1960s. In 2014, a majority interest was sold to a consortium led by Peter Grueterich—previous owner of Bruno Magli and founder of the Peter Marcus Group specializing in luxury footwear distribution—further solidifying Bernardo’s stature within the upscale footwear sector.