Bob Mackie
Bob Mackie | |
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| Born | March 24, 1939 Monterey Park, California, U.S. |
| Occupation(s) | Fashion designer, costumier |
| Years active | 1960–present |
| Known for | Costume design for The Carol Burnett Show, Cher, Elton John; Barbie doll clothing design |
| Notable work | The Carol Burnett Show costumes, Cher tour costumes, Barbie doll designs |
Robert Gordon Mackie (born March 24, 1939) is a distinguished American fashion designer and costumier, acclaimed for outfitting stars in television, film, concerts, and theatrical productions. Throughout the entire eleven-year duration of The Carol Burnett Show, he served as the costume designer for every performer, and he crafted memorable attire for icons such as Cher and Elton John.
Referred to by nicknames like the "Sultan of Sequins," "Rajah of Rhinestones," and "Guru of Glitter," Mackie is highly regarded for his dazzling and inventive creations. He once remarked, "A woman who wears my clothes is not afraid to be noticed."
Mackie partnered with Mattel to design clothing for collectible Barbie dolls, emphasizing cultural representation through diverse features and authentic costumes that honor various heritages.
His honors include nine Primetime Emmy Awards, a Tony Award, and three nominations for the Academy Award for Best Costume Design. In April 2023, RuPaul presented him with the first-ever Giving Us Lifetime Achievement Award during the finale of RuPaul's Drag Race Season 15.
Early life
Born on March 24, 1939, in Monterey Park, California, Mackie is the son of Charles Robert Mackie and Mildred Agnes (Smith) Mackie. His father was employed by Bank of America, and he has an elder sister. Following his parents' divorce, he was raised by his maternal grandparents in Alhambra, California before relocating to Rosemead, California to live with his father. He attended Rosemead High School during this time.
Mackie pursued studies at Pasadena City College and spent a year at Chouinard Art Institute, although he did not complete a degree. At Chouinard, he was mentored by Eva Roberts, head of the fashion design department; however, he left early to accept a position as a sketch artist under Frank Thompson at Paramount Pictures. From 1960 to 1963, he gained experience as an apprentice designer and assistant to Ray Aghayan at Paramount Studios.
Professional career
While working at Paramount in 1961, Mackie received guidance from costumer Edith Head, who instructed him on navigating relationships with producers, directors, and actors. Early on, he contributed as a sketch artist for French haute couture designer Jean Louis, famous for stage gowns worn by Marlene Dietrich. Notably, Mackie sketched Marilyn Monroe’s legendary 1962 dress worn at President John F. Kennedy's birthday celebration.
In 1966, Mitzi Gaynor enlisted Mackie to design costumes for her stage show at the Riviera in Las Vegas, marking his debut as a full show costume designer. His pioneering "nude illusion" gown became influential in shaping entertainer costumes for many years. Over five decades, he continued designing for Gaynor’s television specials and live performances, earning two Emmy Awards for Outstanding Costume Design.
By 1969, Mackie was responsible for wardrobe designs for Diana Ross, The Supremes, and The Temptations in the television special GIT: On Broadway. In 1972, he and Aghayan received an Academy Award nomination for Best Costume Design for Lady Sings The Blues, featuring Ross. Their collaboration extended into the new millennium with costumes created for Ross’ 2010 More Today Than Yesterday: The Greatest Hits Tour.
Mackie crafted intricate costumes for Las Vegas burlesque productions like Hallelujah Hollywood (MGM Grand) and Jubilee!, which ran from 1974 until 2016. His original design sketches are preserved within the "Donn Arden Papers" at UNLV Libraries Digital Collections.
He also designed striking outfits for Elton John that included themes such as Donald Duck and the Los Angeles Dodgers. For Cher’s appearance at the 1986 Academy Awards, Mackie fashioned an exotic look comprising black stretch pants paired with a bejeweled loincloth, knee-high boots, a chainmail top, and an imposing feathered Mohawk headpiece—an ensemble Cher credited with redefining award-show fashion.
In addition to these achievements, Mackie created glamorous evening gowns worn by Whitney Houston during tours and award ceremonies. Throughout his career, he has secured nine Emmy Awards alongside three Oscar nominations.
In 1981, Mackie appeared as himself in two episodes of The Love Boat. His contributions were recognized with induction into the Television Hall of Fame in 2002.
More recently, Mackie gained prominence through designing Cher’s elaborate tour costumes including those seen on the Here We Go Again Tour, her Las Vegas residency Cher at the Colosseum from 2008 to 2011 at Caesars Palace, and her 2017 Classic Cher concerts. His work earned him the Tony Award for Best Costume Design in a Musical in 2019 for The Cher Show.
In 2020, dresses designed by Mackie were showcased on television personality Vanna White during a weeklong San Francisco Bay Area tribute on the syndicated game show Wheel of Fortune.
The Carol Burnett Show
All the costumes for the program, including evening wear, character ensembles, and dance attire, were crafted by Bob Mackie. Among his most famous creations is the legendary curtain dress featured in the "Went with the Wind!" sketch, which has since been acquired by the Smithsonian Institution. Brent D. Glass, the museum’s director, emphasized Mackie’s groundbreaking impact on American comedic costume design through this piece.
Burnett acknowledged Mackie’s role in adding unique comedic elements, such as the snug skirt for Mrs. Wiggins that influenced her distinctive posture and gait. In a 2003 discussion, she disclosed that Mackie incorporated rice into "older woman" undergarments to create authentic weight and motion for characters like Norma Desmond and Charo’s mother. She estimated that he produced roughly 17,000 costumes for the show, highlighting how his designs elevated even less successful sketches. Burnett lauded Mackie’s rare ability to merge fashion sensibility with costume creation: “There are fashion designers who don’t do costumes...and costume designers who don’t do fashion. But Bob does both. He’s the complete package.”
Collaboration with Mattel
In the late 1980s, Mattel, renowned for its Barbie dolls, enlisted Mackie to design apparel for Barbie. His inaugural limited-edition doll launched in 1990 wore a golden ensemble featuring a sequin skirt and feathered boa, anticipating Madonna’s stage look. Unlike previous collaborators, Mackie influenced Barbie’s facial features and hairstyles, introducing a variety of hair colors and lengths to represent broader diversity. The "Mackie sculpt," characterized by a closed-mouth smile, became highly sought after by collectors.
Mackie concentrated on glamorous and imaginative outfits rather than conventional professional attire, often drawing inspiration from his television work and famous clients like Cher. Embroidery and beadwork details were miniaturized and sometimes hand-sewn. Additionally, he was a pioneer in incorporating ethnic variety into Barbie dolls, reflecting his extensive experience dressing women from diverse cultural backgrounds.
Other notable clients
- Ann-Margret
- Lucille Ball
- Diahann Carroll
- Carol Channing
- Miley Cyrus
- Doris Day
- Marlene Dietrich
- Barbara Eden
- Lola Falana
- Farrah Fawcett
- Judy Garland
- Julia Louis-Dreyfus
- Madonna
- Bette Midler
- Liza Minnelli
- Marie Osmond
- Dolly Parton
- Pink
- Barbra Streisand
- Donna Summer
- Tina Turner
- Dottie West
- Oprah Winfrey
Personal life
On March 14, 1960, Mackie wed singer and actress LuLu Porter (born Marianne Wolford); their marriage ended in divorce three years later in 1963. They had one son, Robert Gordon Mackie Jr., known as "Robin," who worked as a makeup artist and passed away in 1993 at age 33 due to an AIDS-related illness.
Beginning in 1963, Mackie's partner was costume designer Ray Aghayan, formerly his assistant. They collaborated professionally throughout the 1970s and remained life partners until Aghayan's death in 2011.
In popular culture
- In season 2, episode 9 of The Looney Tunes Show, Daffy Duck references wearing a Bob Mackie jumpsuit in a photograph.
- During season 5, episode 18 of The Simpsons ("Burns' Heir"), Bart Simpson offers Milhouse Van Houten a blazer described as a "Bob Mackie original."
- Mackie appears as a character in the jukebox musical The Cher Show.
- His name is mentioned in Netflix series such as GLOW, AJ and the Queen, and also in season 10, episode 20 of Modern Family ("Can’t Elope").
- In Best in Show, Michael McKean's character exclaims, "Bob Mackie, where are you when we need you?"
- In an episode of The Nanny titled "Ode to Barbra Joan," Fran Fine comments on receiving an outfit designed by Bob Mackie while shopping.
- In HBO's Girls, season 5 episode 6, Marnie Michaels compares herself to a "Bob Mackie Barbie doll" while trying on a sparkling gown.
Academy Awards
Mackie earned three nominations for the Academy Award for Best Costume Design throughout his career:
| Year | Work nominated | Category | Outcome |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1973 | Lady Sings the Blues | Best Costume Design | Template:Nom |
| 1976 | Funny Lady | Best Costume Design | Template:Nom |
| 1982 | Pennies from Heaven | Best Costume Design | Template:Nom |
American Choreography Awards
The American Choreography Awards celebrate outstanding choreography in film, television, music videos, and commercials. Mackie was honored with one special award.
| Year | Recipient | Award title | Result |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2001 | Himself | Governor's Award | Template:Honored |
Costume Designers Guild Awards
The Costume Designers Guild Awards recognize excellence among costume designers working in film, television, and commercials. Mackie received one honorary distinction.
| Year | Recipient | Award title | Result |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1999 | Himself | Disaronno Career Achievement in Television Award | Template:Honored |
Emmy Awards
The Emmy Awards honor notable accomplishments in the television industry. Mackie has attained one honorary award alongside nine competitive wins from a total of 32 nominations.
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RuPaul's Drag Race HonorsThe reality series RuPaul's Drag Race, hosted by the renowned American drag performer RuPaul, celebrates key figures shaping LGBTQIA+ culture through its "Giving Us Life-time Achievement Award." In 2023, Mackie was distinguished with this special accolade.
Tony AwardsThe Tony Awards, presented each year by the American Theatre Wing and The Broadway League, honor outstanding achievements in theater. Mackie secured the 2019 Tony Award for Best Costume Design in a Musical due to his work on The Cher Show.
TV Land AwardsThe TV Land Awards acknowledge significant television programs that have concluded their production. In 2005, Mackie was honored with the Legend Award for his contributions to The Carol Burnett Show.
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