Brooks Brothers

Brooks Brothers Inc. stands as a prestigious American apparel company established in 1818, holding the distinction of being the longest-running clothing brand continuously operating in the United States. Initially founded as a family enterprise, it is presently a joint venture between Authentic Brands Group and Simon Property Group. The brand specializes in luxury apparel for men, women, and children, while also licensing its name for eyewear (through Luxottica), fragrances (via Interparfums), and home goods (by Turko Textiles).

History

Origins and 19th Century Developments

Henry Sands Brooks inaugurated H. & D. H. Brooks & Co. in Manhattan on April 7, 1818, focusing on delivering high-quality products at reasonable profits. In 1850, his sons rebranded the company as "Brooks Brothers" and introduced the Golden Fleece emblem, a symbol historically associated with British wool merchants.

The company was a trailblazer in introducing ready-made suits to the American market and gained recognition for outfitting President Abraham Lincoln, who donned their coat at both his second inauguration and at the time of his assassination. During the Civil War, Brooks Brothers supplied uniforms to New York Volunteers but attracted criticism over substandard material quality, which contributed to the American adoption of the term "shoddy" to describe inferior products.

Developments in the 20th Century

Winthrop Holly Brooks was the last family member to oversee the business, leading from 1935 until its sale in 1946 to Julius Garfinckel & Co.. Following this acquisition, John C. Wood took over as director and guided Brooks Brothers toward a more traditional menswear strategy. The flagship store and headquarters were established in 1915 at 346 Madison Avenue, New York.

Throughout much of the century, Brooks Brothers operated a subsidiary called Brooks Costume Company that provided costumes for the Ringling Bros - Barnum & Bailey Circus. By 1971, under the umbrella of retail conglomerate Garfinckel, Brooks Brothers, Miller & Rhoads, Inc., the brand managed eleven stores in key U.S. cities until its acquisition by Allied Stores in 1981.

Notably, Ralph Lauren began his career as a salesperson at Brooks Brothers’ Madison Avenue location. The company later initiated legal proceedings against Polo Ralph Lauren to safeguard its rights over the original polo button-down collar shirt design.

In 1988, British retailer Marks & Spencer purchased Brooks Brothers. During the mid-1990s, executives removed the iconic Golden Fleece logo from their cotton knit polo shirts but reinstated it shortly after to strengthen brand recognition.

The launch of Brooks Brothers’ official website in 1998 marked a strategic entry into e-commerce and global market expansion.

Progression in the 21st Century

In 2001, Marks & Spencer divested Brooks Brothers to Retail Brand Alliance (RBA), currently known as The Brooks Brothers Group, privately held by Italian billionaire Claudio Del Vecchio, son of Luxottica’s founder Leonardo del Vecchio. RBA’s portfolio also included Carolee, a jewelry label. By 2007, RBA divested its upscale women’s brand Adrienne Vittadini.

September 2007 saw CEO Claudio Del Vecchio introduce Black Fleece, an upscale menswear and womenswear line designed by Thom Browne. Its commercial success led to opening a dedicated boutique on Bleecker Street in 2008; however, it was discontinued by 2015 due to sizing confusion. Subsequently, Brooks Brothers launched collections catering specifically to Asian customers.

In 2008, renovations were completed at the flagship Madison Avenue store while a smaller Fifth Avenue location was shuttered in 2009. By April 2010, Brooks Brothers had expanded into luxury home furnishings including bedding and décor items.

By 2015, the company operated approximately 210 stores across the United States and maintained about 70 international locations spanning Australia, India, China, Europe, and the Middle East. Although most apparel was imported, certain suits and accessories were produced domestically at their Southwick facility in Haverhill, Massachusetts. Their premium Golden Fleece line featured suits tailored within the U.S., while heritage manufacturing persisted with silk neckties woven in Europe and ties assembled in Long Island City.

Between 2017 and 2019, sales plateaued near $1 billion amid evolving business attire trends and intensifying online competition. In May 2020, facing financial strain worsened by the COVID-19 pandemic, Brooks Brothers sought potential buyers and considered bankruptcy proceedings. The company announced plans to close its three American factories in June due to sustained losses despite promoting its "Made in America" identity.

On July 8, 2020, Brooks Brothers filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection as pandemic-related challenges mounted. The plan included shuttering 51 out of approximately 250 North American stores—among them the flagship Madison Avenue location—which remained permanently closed thereafter. This property was put up for sale early in 2021.

In September 2020, Authentic Brands Group teamed with Simon Property Group to acquire Brooks Brothers for $325 million through a joint venture. The new ownership pledged to maintain at least 125 U.S. stores and expand global operations beyond pre-pandemic totals of around 424 outlets. Ken Ohashi was appointed President and CEO.

On December 1, 2020, Michael Bastian was named creative director with a mandate to rejuvenate the brand’s image. In late 2023, Brooks Brothers introduced "B by Brooks Brothers," an accessible collection retailed via Macy’s aimed at reaching broader consumer segments.

On April 24, 2024, Ted Baker Canada—the operator of Canadian Brooks Brothers stores—filed for creditor protection along with Chapter 15 bankruptcy proceedings in the United States due to unpaid supplier invoices linked to Authentic Brands Group. Consequently, all Canadian Brooks Brothers locations were scheduled for closure.

Innovations

Since 1849, Brooks Brothers has been at the forefront of American menswear, significantly influencing the ready-to-wear industry. Their notable contributions include:

The creation of the button-down collar dress shirt in 1896 by John E. Brooks, drawing inspiration from English polo players.
The popularization of the American "sack suit" in 1895, which became a fundamental element of the Ivy League aesthetic.
The introduction of English foulard ties during the 1890s under the leadership of president Francis G. Lloyd.
Making pink a trendy choice for men's dress shirts, often styled with charcoal-gray suits.
Debuting signature fabrics and garments such as the Shetland sweater in 1904, Harris Tweed in 1909, the Polo coat around 1910, and Madras cloth from India in 1902.
Producing the first American-made Argyle socks for men in 1957.
Developing lightweight summer suits crafted from cotton corduroy and seersucker fabrics in the early 1930s.
Introducing "Brooksweave" wash-and-wear shirts in 1953, a fabric blend of Dacron, polyester, and cotton created by Ruth R. Benerito.
Launching the non-iron 100% cotton dress shirt in 1998.

Remarkably, Brooks Brothers abstained from offering off-the-rack black suits from 1865 until 2003. While this is frequently associated with honoring Abraham Lincoln—who donned a custom black Brooks frock coat—this practice also aligned with traditional American conventions regarding black suits for daytime attire.

Notable customers

Sports

Brooks Brothers acts as the official suit designer and supplier for Italian football club Inter Milan. Between 2010 and 2019, it sponsored and provided apparel for the Head of the Charles Regatta.

Statesmen

United States

Almost every U.S. president since James Madison, except for Jimmy Carter and Ronald Reagan, has worn Brooks Brothers. In 1865, President Abraham Lincoln donned a bespoke Brooks Brothers frock coat at his second inauguration and on the night of his assassination.

During the Civil War, Brooks Brothers crafted uniforms for New York National Guard units and Union officers; prominent generals such as Ulysses S. Grant, William Tecumseh Sherman, and Philip Sheridan were among their clients. Vice President Chester A. Arthur was known to shop there in 1881. Presidents Ulysses S. Grant, Woodrow Wilson, and Theodore Roosevelt also chose Brooks Brothers attire for their inaugurations.

President Franklin D. Roosevelt wore Brooks Brothers clothing while traveling to the Yalta Conference in 1945. At his assassination in 1963, President John F. Kennedy was dressed in a grey Brooks Brothers suit.

President Barack Obama appeared in Brooks Brothers outerwear at his 2009 inauguration and wore their shirts during his second inauguration in 2013. For the 2017 inauguration, President Donald Trump selected a Brooks Brothers white shirt and overcoat; Melania and Ivanka Trump have also been seen wearing the brand.

In 2021, President Joe Biden departed from tradition by choosing Ralph Lauren for his inauguration but continues to wear Brooks Brothers suits, shirts, and casual items such as polos and sweaters.

France

Jacques Chirac (1932–2019), the French statesman and former president, was known to purchase his shirts from the Brooks Brothers outlet located on Madison Avenue.

Popular culture

Music and fine arts

Brooks Brothers acts as the designated outfitter for the Jazz at Lincoln Center Orchestra. Renowned artist Andy Warhol, despite his typically informal attire, was a frequent patron of the brand. Additionally, Brooks Brothers is mentioned in the 1940s jazz classic "Harvard Blues," signifying its connection to an elite lifestyle.

Film, television, and theatre

Brooks Brothers holds a significant role in costume design for film and television, providing clothing for acclaimed series such as All in the Family, Mad Men, and The Colbert Report. The company has also launched exclusive collections inspired by these shows, boosting its brand exposure.

The label has outfitted prominent Hollywood actors including Ben Affleck in Pearl Harbor, Gene Hackman in The Royal Tenenbaums, Will Smith in Ali, and Denzel Washington in The Great Debaters. George Clooney's wardrobe in Up in the Air was supplied by Brooks Brothers, which also designed costumes for The Adjustment Bureau.

In 2011, Brooks Brothers crafted a bespoke wardrobe for Kermit the Frog in The Muppets and dressed the cast of Slumdog Millionaire for the Academy Awards ceremony. For Baz Luhrmann’s 2013 adaptation of The Great Gatsby, the company produced over 500 men's costumes, sponsored premiere events, and released a worldwide limited edition line.

Television characters such as Chuck Bass and Nate Archibald from Gossip Girl are often seen wearing Brooks Brothers apparel. The brand is also referenced in films like The Shadow (1994) and Christopher Nolan’s Tenet (2020), reinforcing its status as an emblem of timeless American fashion.

Fiction

In Anne Rice’s Vampire Chronicles, the protagonist Lestat de Lioncourt frequently dons Brooks Brothers suits, emphasizing the brand’s cultural significance.

Mary McCarthy’s short story "The Man in the Brooks Brothers Shirt" stands out as a literary nod to the company.

Authors including John O’Hara, Somerset Maugham, and J.P. Marquand have woven Brooks Brothers into their narratives to highlight particular character attributes.

Richard Yates, a devoted Brooks Brothers wearer throughout his life, incorporated references to the brand in his writings, such as in A Good School, where a character sports a Brooks Brothers belt.

Tom Wolfe regularly cited Brooks Brothers in his essays on fashion and social status, illustrating its influence within the market.

In Kathryn Stockett’s novel The Help, the central character Skeeter is described wearing a Brooks Brothers shirt, demonstrating the brand’s imprint on popular culture.

References

External links