Caleres

Caleres Inc.

File:Caleres (New Logo).jpg
Formerly	Brown Shoe Company (1875–2015)
Company type	Public
Traded as	NYSE: CAL S&P 600 component
Industry	Retail, wholesale
Founded	1875 (1875)
Headquarters	Clayton, Missouri, U.S.
Number of locations	1,369 (January 2011)
Key people	Jay Schmidt (CEO)
Products	Footwear
Revenue	Steady$2.968 billion (2022)
Number of employees	13,400
Website	caleres.com

Caleres Inc. is a footwear corporation based in the United States that manages a portfolio of shoe brands. Its main office is situated in Clayton, Missouri, a suburb near St. Louis. The enterprise was initially established in St. Louis in 1878 under the name Bryan, Brown & Company, undergoing multiple renamings since. At the dawn of the twentieth century, the Hamilton-Brown Shoe Company stood as the largest shoe manufacturer in the nation before declaring bankruptcy in June 1939.

During the 1970s, Brown managed several retail chains including Famous Footwear, Cloth World fabric outlets, Bottom Half jeans stores, and Meis department stores. On May 27, 2015, Brown Shoe transitioned to the name Caleres. Today’s brand lineup features Famous Footwear, Sam Edelman, Allen Edmonds, Naturalizer, and Vionic.

1886–1900: Brown Shoe Company

File:Brown Shoe logo.svg

Former logo

Originating in St. Louis as Bryan, Brown & Company, the firm was named after its founders George Warren Brown and Alvin Bryan. The business commenced operations in 1878 and was formally incorporated as Bryan-Brown Shoe Company by 1881. George Warren Brown relocated from New York to St. Louis in 1873 to join his elder brother’s shoe enterprise and quickly recognized St. Louis’s potential for shoe production compared to New England’s dominance at that time. After four years working in his brother’s wholesale shoe firm, Brown accumulated sufficient capital to launch Bryan, Brown and Company focused on women's footwear with Alvin L. Bryan and Jerome Desnoyers as partners. The company recruited five expert shoemakers from Rochester, New York to establish its manufacturing plant in St. Louis, which expanded rapidly. By its first year in operation (1878), sales reached $110,000.

Incorporated as Bryan Brown Shoe Company in 1881, the firm was renamed Brown-Desnoyers Shoe Company in 1886 following Mr. Bryan’s retirement. Subsequently in 1893, after J.B. Desnoyers also retired, the company adopted the name Brown Shoe Company. By 1895, Brown Shoe's factory employed approximately six hundred workers capable of producing five thousand pairs of shoes and boots daily. The company competed effectively by offering shoes across the Midwest at prices below those of New England manufacturers and was expanding at an annual rate of $1 million by 1900. In 1904, it acquired marketing rights to Buster Brown, a character created by cartoonist Richard F. Outcault, which became part of its promotional strategy.

1901–1920s: Expansion and Workforce Challenges

As Brown Shoes expanded, St. Louis emerged as a prominent hub for shoe manufacturing, attracting rival factories to establish operations in the city.

On January 13, 1904, a tragic elevator incident took place at a Brown Shoe factory in St. Louis. While a group of employees awaited the elevator, someone lifted the elevator gate prematurely, causing ten individuals to plunge down the shaft. At least eight fatalities were confirmed, with two others reported as "fatally injured," though it remains uncertain if they ultimately died from their injuries.

By 1902, Brown Shoe operated five factories within St. Louis, and in 1907, the company launched its first facility outside the city in Moberly, Missouri, where labor costs were lower. That same year, the corporate headquarters relocated to a downtown St. Louis building. Amid intense competition, Brown Shoes maintained strong profit margins primarily by minimizing labor expenses, as costs related to machinery and raw materials remained relatively stable. The increasing mechanization of manufacturing reduced the skill level required for factory jobs. Consequently, women and children—who could be compensated at lower rates—filled many positions industry-wide. A 1911 survey of shoe workers in St. Louis revealed that over half were aged between 14 and 19, with girls under 16 earning less than $10 weekly on average. Poor working conditions across local shoe factories, including those operated by Brown Shoes, spurred employees to organize labor unions. Initially, the moderate Boot and Shoe Workers Union gained traction, followed by the more militant United Shoe Workers of America, which had ties to the Industrial Workers of the World. These strikes provoked anti-union reactions among some workers and led to the formation of the Citizens Industrial Association in St. Louis, an organization dedicated to anti-union propaganda. In response to union pressures, Brown Shoe increasingly shifted its labor force to smaller towns nearby. While management remained based in St. Louis, the company obtained tax incentives from various municipalities to establish factories in rural areas of Missouri and Illinois.

In 1913, Brown Shoe Company was listed on the New York Stock Exchange. Beginning in 1917, it secured profitable military contracts with the United States government. However, in 1920, the company faced difficulties when changing fashion trends—specifically shorter hemlines—rendered many of its high-top shoes outdated and led to excess inventory. To address financial strains, Brown Shoe sought credit from a Boston bank but subsequently experienced steady growth until the stock market crash of 1929.

1930s: Bankruptcy and the Great Depression

Throughout the 1930s' Great Depression, the company faced significant challenges in controlling expenses, resulting in reduced wages for employees. A government inquiry revealed that some workers at a particular facility earned as little as "$2.50 to $3.00 for a 60-hour workweek." During this period, the firm maintained a staunchly anti-union stance, exemplified by the 1933 closure of its Vincennes, Indiana plant following a strike aimed at union recognition. Reports indicate that the company engaged in physical intimidation tactics against union advocates, including hiring strikebreakers and infiltrating union ranks. In 1935, after an incident where a union representative narrowly avoided being tarred and feathered, the Illinois Federation of Labor compelled a grand jury to investigate Brown. Although no charges were filed, the St. Louis Regional Labor Board later issued a formal complaint against Brown for employing agents and officials to intimidate workers and committing unfair labor practices. Testimony during this hearing disclosed that John A. Bush had contracted the A.A. Ahner detective agency in 1934, an organization notorious for strike-breaking activities. In 1936, the National Labor Relations Board cited Brown for breaching the Wagner Act by dissolving the Salem local union; however, Brown refused to reinstate employees dismissed for union involvement. The enactment of the Fair Labor Standard Act in 1938 required Brown to increase wages for its remaining workforce.

In June 1939, the company declared bankruptcy after failing to secure new capital necessary for reorganization. On June 23, 1939, trading of its stock was halted on the St. Louis Stock Exchange. The final sale priced shares at 20 cents each, a steep decline from their previous peak value of approximately $60 per share.

1940s–1960s: Expansion into Retail

In 1941, Brown established a manufacturing plant in Dyer, Tennessee, marking a strategic shift toward production in the traditionally non-unionized southern United States. During the 1940s, Clark Gamble, who became Brown's third president in 1948 following John Bush's tenure, spearheaded efforts to expand into retail markets. By 1950, Gamble had initiated a merger with Wohl Shoes, a wholesaler predominantly dealing in women's footwear across about 2,500 outlets throughout North America and Cuba. In 1953, Brown acquired Regal Shoes, a major retail chain, followed by the purchase of G. R. Kinney Corporation in 1956—then recognized as the largest operator of family shoe stores. At this juncture, Brown ranked as the fourth-largest shoe manufacturer nationwide.

In 1959, a U.S. District Court in St. Louis ruled against Brown for violating antitrust laws and mandated the divestiture of Kinney. This decision was upheld in 1962 when Brown had ascended to become the leading shoe manufacturer in the United States. Subsequently, Kinney was sold to F. W. Woolworth. For a period, Hamilton-Brown Shoe Company held the distinction of being America’s largest shoe producer. The company expanded further by acquiring Perth Shoe Company in Canada in 1959 and Samuels Shoe Company in 1965.

1970s–1990s: Expansion and Rebranding as Brown Group

Following a prosperous period in the 1960s, Brown experienced a 25% decline in profits in 1969, largely due to a surge of imported shoes entering the US market in 1968. That year, W. L. Hadley Griffin assumed the role of company president and initiated a strategy to diversify beyond footwear. In 1970, Brown acquired Italia Bootwear, Ltd., an importing firm. Subsequent acquisitions included Eagle Rubber Company, Kent Sporting Goods, among others, prompting a corporate name change to Brown Group, Inc. in 1972. The company continued broadening its portfolio with investments in children’s products and sports and leisure sectors. During the 1970s, Brown managed operations such as Famous Footwear, Cloth World fabric outlets, Bottom Half denim stores, and Meis department stores. By February 1979, Brown Group was recognized as the largest American manufacturer of branded footwear and sought federal assistance for price adjustments.

In response to mounting competition from low-cost imports during the 1980s, Brown closed its St. Louis warehouse in 1980 and began reshaping its business model. By 1985, it had exited the recreational products segment, concentrating primarily on shoe manufacturing and retailing; approximately 25% of its operations were dedicated to other retail formats. Around this period, the company shifted focus from domestic production to importing footwear, acquiring importer Arnold Dunn, Inc. in 1984 and Asia-based Pagoda Trading Company in 1986. Marketing efforts in 1988 targeted prominent brands like Connie, Naturalizer, and Buster Brown while phasing out less profitable lines. In 1989, Brown divested all non-footwear retail businesses except for Cloth World.

Entering the early 1990s, Brown shuttered six domestic shoe manufacturing plants and began winding down its Wohl Leased Shoe Department operation by 1993. The final US-owned shoe factory closed in 1995, leaving only two manufacturing sites in Canada. That year also saw the sale of three out of five headquarters buildings along with the Cloth World chain. Workforce reductions amounted to a cut of 35%, equating to 8,500 job eliminations. Expansion continued with acquisitions such as the Larry Stuart Collection and the Le Coq Sportif brand in 1995. The following year, Brown secured licensing agreements to produce athletic footwear under Russell and Penn labels. After operating under the Brown Group name from 1972 until 1999, the company reverted to Brown Shoe in that year.

Name Transitions Since 2000

During a corporate reorganization in 2002, the company shuttered 100 Naturalizer locations and revamped 700 Famous Footwear stores. After experiencing a $4 million loss in 2001, the firm rebounded with a $45.2 million profit in 2002. Brown's stock price surged by nearly 80 percent during the first half of 2003. Later that year, the company entered into a licensing agreement to design and sell footwear under the Bass brand, owned by Phillips-Van Heusen Corp.

On May 27, 2015, Brown Shoe rebranded itself as Caleres, while preserving the "Brown Shoe" name for an upcoming men's footwear collection. The name Caleres is derived from the Latin term calēre, meaning to shine with passion or intensity. The numeral *5* featured in the new logo originates from a wear indicator stamp found on the soles of shoes in the late 19th century, symbolizing the company's commitment to comfort and proper fit; wearers were compensated $5 if this stamp wore away.

In December 2016, Caleres acquired Allen Edmonds for $255 million from Brentwood Associates. As of November 2018, the company remains headquartered in Clayton, Missouri.

Operational Overview

Caleres manages approximately 900 Famous Footwear outlets across the United States. The business adopts an omni-channel strategy to engage customers through physical stores as well as online platforms such as famousfootwear.com and famousfootwear.ca. Additionally, it distributes licensed footwear brands including Dr. Scholl's and Disney through retail partners.

Leadership

Diane M. Sullivan held the positions of president and CEO at Caleres from May 2011 until January 2023, having initially joined as president in 2003. She also assumed the role of board chairwoman starting February 2, 2014. In January 2023, Jay Schmidt succeeded her as CEO while Sullivan transitioned to Executive Chairman.

Mike Edwards leads Famous Footwear as its president. The Sam Edelman brand is overseen by division president Sam Edelman. Dan Friedman manages the global supply chain division, and Jack Calandra fulfills the role of chief financial officer.

Shoe brands

The current portfolio of Caleres encompasses a variety of footwear labels such as Famous Footwear, Naturalizer, Dr. Scholl’s Shoes, LifeStride, Bzees, Blowfish Malibu, Circus by Sam Edelman, Rykä, Sam Edelman, Allen Edmonds, Franco Sarto, Vince, Vionic Shoes, Life Stride, Zodiac, and Veronica Beard. Previously, Caleres oversaw the brands Via Spiga and Carlos by Carlos Santana.

By February 2011, American Sporting Goods Corporation functioned as a Caleres subsidiary. This division included brands such as Avia, Ryka, and Nevados. In December 2016, Caleres expanded its holdings with the acquisition of Allen Edmonds, a company specializing in men's footwear.

Company mascots

Since its inception in 1904, Caleres (formerly Brown Shoe Company) has been represented by the cartoon figures Buster Brown and his canine companion Tige. These mascots have featured prominently in the company’s television advertisements. During the 1940s and 1950s, they also headlined Buster Brown Comics, marking a brief venture into comic book publishing. The covers showcased these characters embarking on various adventures, including tales like Robin Hood. In the 1980s and 1990s, the mascots were reintroduced with a modernized appearance for a limited advertising run.

See also

• Brown Shoe Company Factory
• Brown Shoe Company's Homes-Take Factory
• Boot and Shoe Workers' Union
• Hamilton-Brown Shoe Company Building
• Hamilton-Brown Shoe Factory (Columbia, Missouri)

External links

• Official website
• Comprehensive database and cover archive of comic books released by the Brown Shoe Company, Grand Comics Database