Cole of California
| Company type | Private |
|---|---|
| Industry | Swimwear, Apparel |
| Predecessor | West Coast Knitting Mills |
| Founded | 1917 in Vernon, California, United States |
| Founder | F.L. Drane, Joseph Drane |
| Headquarters | California , United States |
Area served | United States |
Key people | Fred Cole, Margit Fellegi, Anne Cole |
| Products | Swimwear |
| Owner | InMocean Group |
Cole of California is a distinguished swimwear label known for pioneering advancements in stylish swim apparel.
Early history and swimwear
Established in 1917 by F.L. and Joseph Drane in Vernon, California, West Coast Knitting Mills specialized in producing men's long knitted underwear and socks, eventually becoming the largest knitting mill on the West Coast. During the early 1920s, apparel manufacturer Morris Cohn acquired a stake in the company. His son, Fred Cole, who had a background as a silent film actor and adopted the more commercially appealing surname Cole, brought his Hollywood insights to the business and persuaded his family to introduce a women's swimwear collection. Competing against brands such as Catalina Swimwear and Jantzen, Cole launched in 1925 the sleeveless "Hollywood Swimsuit," characterized by a low-cut back, neckline, short skirt, and elasticized fit. This vibrant and daring design rapidly became fashionable.
Popular success
In 1936, Cole appointed Hollywood costume designer Margit Fellegi as head of design and began utilizing cotton as the main fabric—a notable innovation at a time when wool was predominantly used. The brand also gained recognition for popularizing bold white swimsuits. Fellegi contributed fresh designs like the "Swoon Suit," enhancing the label's popularity. Following Morris Cohn's passing in 1941, Fred Cole assumed leadership and rebranded the company as Cole of California. During World War II, production shifted toward parachute manufacturing before returning to swimwear after the war ended. From 1948 to 1952, swimmer-actress Esther Williams acted as the brand’s spokesperson. The company continued to innovate with features such as overskirts, tank suits, and plunging backs, and briefly collaborated with Christian Dior on his sole swimwear line. In the 1950s, Fred Cole’s daughter Anne Cole joined the enterprise; she later founded her own company responsible for creating the tankini in the 1990s.
Acquisition
In 1960, Fred Cole sold the business to the Kayser-Roth corporation, while Margit Fellegi remained involved and Anne Cole took on the role of executive vice president. The "Scandal Suit," introduced in 1964 with its plunging V-neck filled with mesh and low back design, became the first swimsuit to generate over $1 million in sales that year. Several designs from this era, including the Scandal Suit, are preserved in permanent collections at institutions such as the Metropolitan Museum.
The company was acquired by Authentic Fitness in 1993, which merged Cole with Catalina. Authentic Fitness later became part of Warnaco before being sold again in 2003. Presently, both Cole of California and Catalina brands are owned by the InMocean Group.