Diesel (company)

Diesel S.p.A.

Company type	Private
Industry	Fashion, luxury goods
Founded	1978
Founder	Renzo Rosso
Headquarters	Breganze , Italy
Area served	Worldwide
Key people	Renzo Rosso (Founder), Glenn Martens (Artistic Director)
Products	Denim, apparel, footwear, accessories
Owner	OTB Group
Website	www.diesel.com

Diesel S.p.A. is a luxury retail brand based in Breganze, Italy, specializing in premium denim, apparel, footwear, and accessories. It operates as part of the OTB Group.

In March 2019, Diesel USA sought protection under Chapter 11 bankruptcy, announcing intentions to shut down several physical outlets. Notably, Diesel SpA, its parent company, remained unaffected by this filing.

Belgian designer Glenn Martens was appointed as Diesel’s artistic director in October 2020.

Origins

Renzo Rosso, the founder of Diesel, began crafting jeans at age fifteen using his mother’s sewing machine, producing low-rise bell-bottom styles that he sold within his circle of friends. He subsequently attended a technical high school for industrial textile manufacturing in Padua.

In 1976, Rosso joined Moltex, a firm owned by Adriano Goldschmied. After two years, with financial support from his father, he acquired a 40% share and rebranded the company as Diesel, launching denim products under this and other labels. By 1985, Rosso had purchased Goldschmied’s shares for US$500,000, becoming the sole proprietor. He attributes his expertise to marketing insights from the United States, creative influence from Italy, and organizational methods from Germany.

1990s Expansion

During the early 1990s, Rosso propelled Diesel into international markets. In 1990, Russ Togs, Inc. obtained licensing rights to distribute Diesel products in the US and Mexico. However, Russ Togs ceased operations by 1991 and returned Diesel Sportswear to Rosso. As a result, plans for domestically produced Diesel merchandise were abandoned in favor of importing Italian-made jeans and apparel for US retail.

Pierre Winther’s Artistic Partnership with Diesel

In 1993, Pierre Winther was engaged to redefine Diesel’s visual branding. Collaborating closely with Diesel’s headquarters and Stockholm-based agency Paradiset, Winther developed the pioneering "Successful Living" campaigns featuring elaborate staged scenes such as a dramatic automobile collision and surreal religious ceremonies. These striking visuals attracted international attention and reinforced Diesel’s status as a leading denim brand.

Winther’s signature images like Car Crash 1993 and House of Love 1994 challenged conventional fashion advertising with provocative narratives and compelling aesthetics. Exhibited at Stockholm’s Fotografiska Museum during 2016–2017, these campaigns demonstrated Diesel’s commitment to pushing boundaries through bold imagery. Winther characterized his work as “a world offering deep social commentary” that continues to evoke strong reactions. This collaboration marked a pivotal moment for Diesel’s emergence as an innovative global fashion leader.

Diesel initiated its first global marketing effort in 1991 with the acclaimed Guides for Successful Living campaign series, which earned a Grand Prix at the 1992 Cannes Lions International Advertising Festival. That same year, Diesel became the title sponsor of the World Superbike racing series. Under Renzo Rosso’s visionary leadership to innovate continuously, Diesel partnered with renowned creative agencies and photographers including Winther, David LaChapelle, Terry Richardson, Ellen von Unwerth, Rankin, and Erwin Olaf.

In 1995, Diesel released one of its most controversial advertisements—featuring two sailors kissing during a WWII peace event—photographed by LaChapelle. This was among the earliest major fashion campaigns portraying a same-sex couple kissing amid the peak of U.S. "Don't ask, Don't tell" policy debates. Concurrently, Diesel launched one of the earliest e-commerce platforms for fashion; initial online sales of jeans began in Finland and Sweden in 1997 and expanded to include home delivery in other countries by 1998.

By 1999, Diesel had established flagship stores in New York City, San Francisco, Rome, and London alongside additional mono-brand outlets complementing department store locations. Further flagship "StyleLabs" were opened in Berlin, Barcelona, and Paris. The company also developed illustrated catalogs for its retail collections. Acknowledged for outstanding business performance, Diesel received the Premio Risultati award for Best Italian Company of the Year from Bocconi Institute in 1996. In 1998, The Wall Street Journal recognized Diesel as "the label of the moment."

2000s and 2010s

During the 2000s, Rosso significantly increased Diesel's international market presence by expanding the number of company-operated outlets, launching collaborative projects with other brands, and diversifying the company's operations. In 2002, through the parent group Only The Brave (OTB), which included Diesel among its portfolio, Rosso acquired multiple fashion labels such as Maison Martin Margiela, Viktor & Rolf, Marni, along with the licensing agency Staff International. To celebrate Rosso's fiftieth birthday in 2005, Diesel published "Fifty," a visual chronicle of the company's history.

Diesel’s main office has remained in Breganze, Italy, supported by twelve subsidiaries abroad as of 2005. By 2008, Diesel managed 270 mono-brand stores across eighty nations—170 under direct ownership and the remainder franchised—with a global retail network exceeding five thousand points of sale. The brand reported revenues surpassing €1.3 billion in 2009 and expanded its store count to over 400 by 2010. Rosso appeared on the Forbes list of billionaires for the first time in 2012. Diesel showcased its international footprint through exhibitions such as "Welcome to Diesel World" in Shanghai (2015) and celebrated its twentieth anniversary with an event in Tel Aviv.

In early 2013, Rosso appointed Nicola Formichetti—previously Lady Gaga’s stylist and creative director at Mugler—as Diesel’s Artistic Director. Formichetti was responsible for guiding product innovation, brand communications, marketing strategies, and store design. His debut initiative included the launch of the pioneering #Reboot campaign funded via Tumblr. Photographed by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin, this campaign spotlighted a diverse group of young creatives rather than conventional models, highlighting a range of body types and individual fashion expressions.

2020s

In October 2020, Belgian designer Glenn Martens took on the role of Diesel’s artistic director. By 2021, Diesel experienced a 34% increase in direct online sales compared to 2019, attributed in part to Martens’ creative direction. The Diesel Fall/Winter 2022 Ready-to-Wear presentation held in Milan on 23 February 2022 garnered mainly favorable critiques for its daring and imaginative designs inspired by multiple eras. Nonetheless, some runway challenges arose due to high-heeled boots featured in the collection, drawing attention to the bold footwear choices.

Collaborations & partnerships

In 2002, Rosso joined forces with Karl Lagerfeld to produce a limited-edition denim line named Lagerfeld Gallery by Diesel. This five-piece collection was unveiled at Paris Fashion Week and retailed in select locations including Paris, Monaco, New York, and Tokyo. Despite premium pricing, it sold out rapidly, reinforcing Diesel’s status within casual prêt-à-porter.

The following year, Rosso collaborated with street artist Stephen Sprouse to redesign Diesel’s Union Square store for New York Fashion Week and create limited-edition apparel showcasing Sprouse’s iconic Day-Glo aesthetic. Additionally in 2003, Diesel partnered with Capcom to design costumes for characters in the video game Devil May Cry 2.

In 2007, Diesel entered into a partnership with L'Oréal to launch its inaugural fragrance titled Fuel For Life. Early in 2008, a collaboration with FIAT resulted in a special edition of the Fiat 500 called '500 by Diesel,' limited to 10,000 units featuring distinctive interior and exterior styling elements.

Spring 2008 saw a joint effort with Adidas producing an exclusive denim collection available only at Adidas Originals outlets, followed by worldwide distribution of sneakers under the Diesel brand.

In May 2011, Rosso unveiled Diesel’s first bicycle through a collaboration with Pinarello. This single-speed urban bike featured a hydroformed aluminum frame symbolizing an innovative blend between fashion design and bicycle craftsmanship.

Fashion lines

Although Diesel's primary focus has traditionally been on denim apparel, the brand has broadened its offerings to include leather jackets, women's dresses, and various other clothing items. In 1998, Diesel introduced Diesel StyleLab, a premium fashion label that extended beyond its classic denim roots. During the 2000s, Diesel expanded its brand presence by licensing to partners across new product segments, such as Diesel Eyewear with Marcolin, Diesel Watches in collaboration with Fossil, and fragrances through L'Oréal. Diesel maintains oversight of these ventures to ensure consistent brand standards.

The company further diversified into home décor with Diesel Living, partnering with firms like Moroso, Seletti, Scavolini, Foscarini, and Berti. Additional collaborations include Bugaboo for stroller designs, AVG for helmet production, Ducati for motorcycles, and a limited edition Fiat 500 with Fiat. To preserve exclusivity, Diesel periodically releases limited edition denim collections.

By 2003, Diesel had segmented its offerings into three separate lines: the upscale Diesel StyleLab designer collection, the core denim-focused Diesel line, and 55DSL, which was inspired by board sports and streetwear culture. Both StyleLab and 55DSL have since been discontinued.

Between 2008 and 2018, Diesel concentrated on two principal lines: Diesel and Diesel Black Gold. Debuting at New York Fashion Week in 2008, Diesel Black Gold represented a luxury ready-to-wear collection that merged denim craftsmanship with tailored design elements, positioning itself as a casual alternative within the luxury fashion market. In 2013, the company undertook a reorganization of its business structure alongside revamping its marketing approach.

As of 2023, Diesel has phased out all diffusion lines and sub-brands from its portfolio.

Advertising

Since 1991, Diesel has set itself apart through imaginative advertising campaigns developed in collaboration with the Swedish agency Paradiset DDB. Memorable campaigns include the provocative 1997 ads portraying life under Communist North Korea and others featuring imagery such as car crashes, socially conscious themes, global challenges like climate change, and anti-establishment messages. Michael Chevalier noted that Diesel’s retail environments encourage customer engagement by presenting merchandise in ways that invite interaction with sales personnel.

In the late 1990s, Diesel ventured into digital media by producing CD-ROMs and the computer game "Digital Adrenalin—55DSL." By the early 2000s, the brand shifted its marketing focus toward enhancing customer experience rather than direct sales efforts, developing interactive campaigns that deepened consumer connections—a strategy credited with driving significant growth during that era.

In 2007, Diesel sponsored the Diesel-U-Music contest. From January through September 2008 alone, the brand allocated $5.8 million toward advertising in the United States. That same year saw the launch of the 'Heidies' campaign—an innovative internet-based fashion initiative featuring two models engaging live with online audiences to promote Diesel’s intimate apparel and beachwear collections. This campaign attracted more than 100,000 daily viewers and earned accolades at the Cannes Lions International Advertising Festival.

To mark its 30th anniversary on October 11, 2008, Diesel organized 17 worldwide parties streamed live online over a continuous 24-hour period across cities such as Tokyo, Dubai, Milan, Paris, London, São Paulo, and New York City. The celebrations included performances by artists like Daft Punk, Earth Wind and Fire, Mark Ronson, and M.I.A. Promotion included the viral 'Diesel SFW XXX Party Video,' which amassed over 20 million views by 2011 and is recognized as one of the most effective viral marketing campaigns ever executed.

The anniversary also featured 'The Dirty Thirty,' a special edition jean available for just one day at €30. Modeled by Daisy Lowe, this release triggered global consumer enthusiasm marked by long queues and rapid sell-outs.

Throughout the 2000s, Diesel collaborated with prominent photographers and creative agencies including Jean Pierre Khazem, Carl de Keyzer, Finlay McKay, Elaine Constantine, Mert Alas & Marcus Piggott, Louis Sebastian Pane, Johan Renck, and Terry Richardson—who notably contributed to the acclaimed "Global Warming Ready" campaign in 2007. The brand secured Grand Prix awards at Cannes Lions in 2001, 2007, 2009, and 2010.

Diesel also runs an Art Gallery located in Tokyo. In 2009, Steve Birkhold departed from his role as head of Diesel’s US division shortly after finalizing an agreement to distribute discounted jeans through Macy’s.

Talent development

In 2001, Diesel:U:Music Radio was introduced, featuring an independent panel of artists and producers including Ian McCulloch, Mark Ronson, and Ronnie Wood. Each year, this jury evaluated thousands of demo submissions from around the world, selecting standout unsigned bands. Collaborations with record companies such as Warner Music and media outlets like Vice enabled winners to secure recording contracts and gain significant media visibility. The initiative was broadcast live on Channel 4 in the UK in 2006, showcasing legendary group Roxy Music. By 2009, Diesel:U:Music had evolved into an international tour and radio platform, featuring live sets from artists including Kanye West and The Roots.

In 2002, Rosso and Diesel jointly established ITS (International Talent Support), a competition aimed at emerging fashion designers. Rosso regularly participated as a juror, while Diesel and its parent company OTB provided financial backing. In 2005, i-D Magazine founder Terry Jones commended ITS for its dedicated approach to identifying promising designers.

Between 2003 and 2004, Diesel fostered young artistic talent through the Diesel New Art and Diesel Wall initiatives. Diesel New Art gave graduating artists opportunities for solo exhibitions, participation in international art fairs, and promotion through published catalogues. Meanwhile, Diesel Wall converted expansive unused urban walls into exhibition spaces displaying artworks selected by a jury for extended periods. Esteemed jury members included curator Hans Ulrich Obrist, filmmaker Bigas Luna, graphic designer Peter Saville, artist Patrick Tuttofuoco, art director Jérôme Sans, along with editors Helena Kontova and Stefano Boeri.

ANDAM (National Association for the Development of the Fashion Arts), established in 1989, continues to be a prominent organization supporting the advancement of fashion arts.

Trademark litigation

Around late 1979 or early 1980, Irish firm Montex began manufacturing jeans under the Diesel name. Meanwhile, in 1982, Diesel SpA also commenced selling jeans bearing the Diesel brand within Ireland.

In 1992, Montex sought to register the Diesel trademark in Ireland; this was contested by Diesel SpA. Conversely, in 1994, Diesel SpA applied for trademark registration but faced opposition from Montex. The Irish Supreme Court rejected Montex's application in 2001. However, in 2012, the Irish Controller of Patents Designs and Trademarks denied registration to Diesel SpA. Most recently, in 2024, the Irish High Court ruled that Diesel SpA holds the right to register the Diesel trademark in Ireland; this verdict is currently open to appeal.