Farnaz Abdoli
Farnaz Abdoli | |
|---|---|
| Born | 1987 Shiraz, Iran |
| Occupation(s) | Fashion designer, visual artist, graphic designer, theatre actress |
| Years active | 2007–present |
| Known for | Founder of POOSH-e MA women's apparel label |
Farnaz Abdoli is an Iranian artist with expertise spanning fashion design, visual arts, and graphic design. She established the women's apparel label POOSH-e MA in 2011.
Abdoli’s creations are distinguished by vivid hues and patterns inspired by Western styles, all while adhering to Iran’s Islamic dress regulations. This distinctive approach has resulted in tensions with Iranian authorities. Her brand’s mission is to confront these limitations and encourage Iranian women to express their individuality through clothing.
Early life and education
Raised in Shiraz, Iran, Abdoli began designing garments for herself and her sister, which her mother then crafted. She acknowledges her mother’s encouragement as pivotal to nurturing her interest in fashion. Abdoli is proficient in both Persian and English.
She obtained an associate degree in graphic design from the Art College of Shiraz (2007–2009) followed by a bachelor’s degree at Sariyan University in Sari, Iran (2009–2011), during which she also worked as a freelance graphic designer. In 2014, she undertook a brief fashion design program at Istituto Europeo di Design in Barcelona and completed an MBA at Shahid Beheshti University (2014–2015).
Her enthusiasm for fashion was sparked early on, influenced by the scarcity of streetwear options due to the Islamic dress codes enforced by the Basij Militia during Mahmoud Ahmadinejad’s presidency.
POOSH-e MA
Since its inception in 2011, Abdoli has dedicated herself to developing POOSH-e MA, initially named "Poosh," meaning "cloth" in Persian. She serves as the founder, lead designer, and creative director of the brand. Alongside her fashion career, Abdoli has been active as a theatre actress since 2007. Her debut collection was created in partnership with "Street Style Fashion" at Shiraz’s "Shiveh Gallery."
The 2013 Spring/Summer line attracted global media coverage from outlets across Iran, California, Germany, including BBC World News, BBC Persian, Germany Radio, and CNN. The label has been characterized as "innovative, daring, and contemporary while respecting Iranian women," as well as "vibrant and modern." Abdoli continued presenting POOSH-e MA collections until 2017 before departing Iran.
Conflict with Iranian government
Abdoli encountered governmental opposition due to promoting fashion that was perceived as inconsistent with mandated dress codes. Her work provoked complaints from Iran’s morality police and led to summons at Branch 6 of Evin Court. Authorities frequently raided and shut down her studios and retail spaces. MP Ali Motahari showcased Abdoli’s designs in parliament, citing them as examples of cultural subversion threatening Islamic principles.
In 2016, the Islamic Revolutionary Guard Corps’ intelligence division arrested Abdoli, detaining her in solitary confinement for 31 days on accusations of endorsing Western values and eroding Islamic culture. Following bail release, she received a five-year prison sentence alongside a professional ban on engaging in fashion-related activities.
Exile and Relocation
Following these developments, Abdoli left Iran and spent seven years exiled in Turkey, where her artistic output was restricted. In 2023, she was granted a French Talent Passport allowing her to relocate to Paris. Her personal narrative appeared on the front page of Ouest-France, France’s largest non-free daily newspaper, in November 2024.
This coverage sparked further attention from French and European media outlets. Subsequently, Abdoli moved to Munich, Germany, joining the Artists at Risk program.
In 2013, conservative Iranian media criticized her designs harshly; some outlets labeled her collections as provocative. Certain Iranian women questioned whether her styles were appropriate for public wear. Notably, the 2013 Spring/Summer POOSH-e MA collection incited significant backlash: Bultan News described it as "the Spring prostitution campaign," accusing the brand of promoting indecency. The controversy centered on Abdoli’s use of leggings instead of loose trousers, three-quarter length sleeves replacing long tunics, and form-fitting garments rather than baggy attire.
By 2015, Abdoli observed progress within Iran’s fashion industry, noting increased engagement and formal education opportunities in modeling and design.
In 2016, authorities intensified enforcement against unlicensed fashion enterprises by closing 800 shops and issuing approximately 3,000 warnings—including one to Abdoli. POOSH-e MA also faced political condemnation from MP Zohreh Tabibzadeh-Nouri, who criticized a collection featuring the word "Queen," interpreting it as a calculated effort to erode traditional values aligned with Western influences. Despite these challenges, Abdoli sustained her brand’s presence with backing from international fashion press and human rights groups.
International Acclaim
Abdoli's creations have attracted global media coverage from prominent organizations including BBC Persian, The Guardian, Suitcase Magazine, and CNN, all of which have acknowledged her significant influence within Iran's fashion sector. She considers fashion a vital catalyst for advancing women's empowerment and fostering cultural change. In 2013, at the age of 26, CNN honored her as one of the top ten most impactful women of the year.
Artistic Approach and Creations
Within Iran, Abdoli's fashion showcased floral motifs, lively hues, and daring cuts that transformed the concept of modest attire. Following her move abroad, her collections evolved to embrace conceptual narratives, featuring military-inspired shapes, metallic textiles, lace elements, and harnesses that convey themes of authority, oppression, and identity. Her work draws heavily on Iranian mythology, with particular emphasis on the goddess Anahita as a symbol of feminine strength and endurance.
Multidisciplinary Visual Art Practice
Beyond fashion design, Abdoli explores installation art, photography, and sound-based projects. Her work titled “Thirty Years, Seven More” explores themes of exile, transformation, and psychological perception of time through an autobiographical lens employing multisensory techniques centered on surveillance, memory retention, and disappearance.
Personal Background
Proficient in both Persian and English languages, Abdoli also participates in theatrical productions and various creative partnerships alongside her fashion endeavors.