Glen Dawson (climber)
Glen Dawson | |
|---|---|
| Born | 3 June 1912 |
| Died | 22 March 2016 (aged 103) |
| Occupation(s) | Rock climber, mountaineer, antiquarian bookseller, publisher, environmentalist |
| Known for | First ascents in Sierra Nevada; co-founder of Rock Climbing Section of Southern California Sierra Club; management of Dawson's Book Shop |
Glen Dawson (June 3, 1912 – March 22, 2016) was a distinguished American figure known for his contributions as a rock climber, mountaineer, antiquarian bookseller, publisher, and advocate for environmental conservation.
Early life
Glen’s father, Ernest Dawson (1882–1947), shared similar pursuits as a climber and antiquarian bookseller, and held the position of Sierra Club president from 1934 to 1937. In 1927, Glen ascended White Mountain Peak, followed by a climb of the Matterhorn in 1928 alongside his father and Swiss guides.
1929–1930
Dawson commenced serious mountaineering in the Sierra Nevada in 1929, tackling peaks such as Mount Abbot, Mount Mills, Mount Hooper, and Mount Humphreys. During the Sierra Club’s annual High Trip on July 6, 1930, he teamed up with Jules Eichorn to accomplish multiple climbs—including Mount Abbot, Bear Creek Spire, Mount Darwin—and notably completed the inaugural ascent of Mount Mendel within a span of 24 days. Sierra Club Secretary Will Colby remarked on their vigorous efforts conquering challenging summits.
1931 season
On July 12, 1931, under the leadership of Sierra Club president Francis P. Farquhar, Dawson and Eichorn achieved the first traverse of Unicorn Peak near Yosemite’s Tuolumne Meadows. They also established first ascents of Finger Peaks and The Dragtooth, while pioneering routes on Cathedral Peak and Echo Ridge (which would later be known as Matthes Crest).
The team proceeded to explore the Minarets Range, accomplishing first ascents of Michael Minaret, Clyde Minaret, and Third Minaret (also called Eichorn Minaret), which represent the highest elevations within that range.
Harvard professor and Appalachian Mountain Club member Robert L. M. Underhill introduced sophisticated roped climbing techniques derived from Alpine experience. After receiving instruction from Underhill, Dawson joined him and other elite climbers to complete the first ascent of California’s last unclimbed peak exceeding 14,000 feet on August 13. This summit was named Thunderbolt Peak following a nearby lightning strike.
Just three days later, on August 16, Dawson, Eichorn, Clyde, and Underhill successfully made the inaugural ascent of the demanding East Face of Mount Whitney, which included the exposed Fresh Air Traverse. At only 19 years old, Dawson had already become one of California’s leading climbers. This climb set a new benchmark for technical skill in Californian rock climbing history. Dawson later regarded this achievement as his most renowned accomplishment and an important milestone in climbing lore.
That autumn, he enrolled at UCLA to pursue studies in history.
1932 season
On June 15, 1932, Dawson joined Clyde, Brem, Bestor Robinson, and Dick Jones in summiting El Picacho del Diablo—the tallest peak in Baja California. Initially believing they were making the first ascent, they discovered a cairn left by mapmaker Donald McLain dating back to 1911.
Returning to the Sierra Nevada for the Sierra Club’s High Trip, which included 199 participants and 25 mules, Dawson led a group to ascend what would be named Mount Farquhar. Alongside Thomas Rawles and Hans Helmut Leschke, he climbed the most technically challenging (#8) pinnacle among the Kearsarge Pinnacles. A party including Dawson, Clyde, Farquhar, and Eichorn reached Junction Peak. Additionally, Dawson with Eichorn, Brem, and Leschke pioneered a new route on Mount Russell via the south face west chute. He also completed climbs on both the Red Kaweah and Black Kaweah peaks.
During Labor Day weekend in 1932, Dawson and Dick Jones climbed Mount McAdie. That year he took on responsibilities as Mountaineering Notes Editor for the Sierra Club Bulletin.
1933 season
On February 22, 1933, Dawson achieved the inaugural ski ascent of Telegraph Peak located in the San Gabriel Mountains.
That same year, Dawson, along with Eichorn and Dick Jones, completed the first recorded climb of a summit later designated as Dawson Minaret within the Minarets. During the Sierra Club's annual High Trip, Dawson teamed with Neil Ruge and Alfred Weiler to accomplish the initial ascent of the tallest peak in The Pinnacles. He also summited Pilot Knob accompanied by his sister Fern Dawson and pioneered a first ascent of an unnamed Peak 13,332 near Mount Darwin with Bahlah Ballantine and Neil Ruge. On July 25, he conducted a survey of the imposing Devils Crags and subsequently reached multiple summits alongside fellow Sierra Club members. It is possible he made the maiden ascent of Rambaud Peak with his younger brother Muir Dawson and established a new route to Middle Palisade with Eichorn, climbing what was later named Norman Clyde Peak along the way.
In August, Dawson took part in an unsuccessful search for solo climber Walter A. Starr, Jr. in the Minarets—the final occasion he climbed roped with Jules Eichorn. Norman Clyde eventually located Starr’s remains. Dawson contributed the foreword to the authoritative book documenting this event.
On November 5, 1933, Dawson co-founded the Rock Climbing Section within the Southern California Chapter of the Sierra Club, initiating activities with practice climbs at Eagle Rock. By December, they had completed demanding ascents on Castle Dome, near Yuma, Arizona on the California side of the Colorado River, as well as climbed Picacho Peak in Arizona.
1934–35 season
During the July 4th weekend in 1934, Dawson and Ted Waller executed the second ascent of Mount Whitney’s East Face, originally climbed by Dawson in 1931. On July 11, Dawson joined Jack Riegelhuth and Neil Ruge to accomplish the first ascent of a Sierra Nevada summit later named Mount Ansel Adams. He also completed the second ascent of Eichorn Pinnacle and achieved the first east-to-west traverse of The Three Teeth on Sawtooth Ridge. Alongside Riegelhuth and Ansel Adams, he made the inaugural ascent of Blacksmith Peak and led a traverse from South Whorl to Whorl Peak.
Heading north with Tony Charlton from the New Zealand Alpine Club, they climbed Mount Shasta, Mount Thielsen, Three-Fingered Jack, and Mount Washington in Oregon before ascending Mount Rainier in Washington. In Canada’s Rockies, they summited both Mount Hungabee and Mount Temple within Banff National Park.
On November 7, 1934, Dawson co-established the Ski Mountaineers of California, which evolved into the Ski Mountaineers Section of the Angeles Chapter of the Sierra Club. In February 1935, Dawson joined Mosauer and others in winter climbing attempts around Bridgeport and Mammoth but were impeded by storms before successfully skiing up Mammoth Mountain, well ahead of its development as a ski destination.
1935–1936 World Climbing Tour
Following his graduation from UCLA in June 1935, Dawson embarked on an international climbing expedition. Traveling eastward by Greyhound bus, he visited Carlsbad Caverns and explored Great Smoky Mountains National Park. From Boston, he sailed to Trieste and undertook extensive climbs in the Dolomites, including scaling Marmolata’s south face. In Bavaria’s Wetterstein range, he completed significant ascents such as the Kubanek-Spiondler route on Musterstein’s southern face and likely achieved the first American ascent of Schusselkarspitze-Sudwand. In total, he completed roughly thirty climbs across the Alps during six weeks.
Subsequently, he tackled the Tennis Shoe route on Idwal in North Wales, journeyed to the Soviet Union where adverse weather thwarted a planned Mount Elbrus climb, traversed Siberia by train, and arrived in Japan. There he accomplished demanding ascents in both Mount Yari and Hodaka areas before crossing Mount Fuji.
After spending fourteen months abroad, Dawson returned to America in 1936 reaffirming that despite his international experiences, "our own High Sierra is the finest and most friendly of all."
1937 season
In 1937, Glen Dawson and Dick Jones achieved the inaugural ascent of The Mechanic's Route on Tahquitz Rock, recognized as one of the earliest climbs rated YDS 5.8 in the United States. This route was distinguished by its sparse protection and rudimentary equipment, ultimately serving as the benchmark for the 5.8 grade within the Yosemite Decimal System. Due to its closer proximity to Los Angeles compared to Yosemite Valley, Tahquitz was becoming a prominent climbing destination in Southern California.
On September 5, 1937, Dawson, along with his brother Muir, Dick Jones, Bob Brinton, and Howard Koster, pioneered the East Buttress route on Mount Whitney. This climb, rated YDS III 5.7 and colloquially known as the "Peewee Route," is situated adjacent to Dawson’s earlier 1931 East Face route.
Later life
From 1937 until 1951, Dawson held a position on the Sierra Club Board of Directors, with a break between 1944 and 1947 when he served in the military. During World War II, he instructed rock climbing and skiing for the Tenth Mountain Division at Camp Hale, Colorado, and later in Italy, where he earned a Bronze Star Medal for his combat service in Northern Italy.
Following his military service, Dawson took over management of Dawson's Book Shop, an antiquarian bookstore in Los Angeles founded by his father Ernest in 1905. Together with his brother Muir, he published more than 370 collectible titles, including miniature books. The enterprise remains active today under the stewardship of Michael Dawson, representing the third generation. In 1990, Glen Dawson collaborated with the FBI during investigations into rare book thefts committed by Stephen Blumberg, assisting in the recovery of stolen materials from over 327 libraries and providing expert testimony during the trial.
Dawson was honored with the Sierra Club's Francis P. Farquhar Mountaineering Award in 1973 and received the Walter A. Starr Award in 2011 for his longstanding contributions as a former director. He maintained an active role within mountaineering communities well into advanced age, penning the foreword for Climbing Mt. Whitney in 2008 and delivering public talks at age 97 during an exhibition dedicated to mountaineer Norman Clyde at the Eastern California Museum. On September 18, 2009, Azusa Pacific University bestowed upon him an honorary Doctor of Humane Letters degree in recognition of his accomplishments in rare book collecting, publishing, and mountaineering. Residing in Pasadena, California, Dawson celebrated his 100th birthday in June 2012.
At the time of his passing at age 103, Dawson held the distinction of being the longest-standing member of the Sierra Club, with a membership spanning more than 94 years.