Hermann J. Wiemer
Hermann J. Wiemer | |
|---|---|
| Born | Bernkastel-Wittlich, Germany |
| Occupation(s) | Winemaker, viticulturist |
| Known for | Founder of Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard |
Hermann J. Wiemer founded the Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard, a winery renowned for its Riesling production located in Dundee, New York.
Early life and education
Born in Bernkastel-Wittlich, Germany, Wiemer grew up in Bernkastel-Kues. His maternal lineage has been engaged in grape cultivation for over three centuries, while his father, Eduard, worked at the Geisenheim Grape Breeding Institute and led a grafting research station in Bernkastel. Eduard, an expert in grafting techniques, instructed Hermann in grafting Mosel Riesling vines onto American rootstocks, and by age 14, Hermann had acquired skills in vine cloning. As the family's only son, he spent considerable time during his youth laboring in vineyards. During high school, he gained two years of practical experience working in vineyards located in Deidesheim within the Rhine Valley to prepare for advanced studies. Subsequently, he pursued oenology at the Geisenheim Institute.
Early years in New York
In 1965, Wiemer relocated to Conesus, New York, where he worked under St. Michel's Seminary and winemaker Leo Goering, himself a Geisenheim alumnus. There, Wiemer oversaw 20 acres of European grape varieties grafted onto American rootstock at the O-Neh-da Vineyard near Hemlock Lake within the Finger Lakes region. After honing his expertise and improving his English proficiency, he returned to Germany. His former professor Dr. Helmut Becker introduced him to Walter Taylor of Bully Hill Vineyards. In 1968, Taylor appointed Wiemer as winemaker, prompting a move to Hammondsport by Keuka Lake. Wiemer played a key role in vineyard establishment and winemaking during Bully Hill’s founding in 1970 but disagreed with Taylor’s preference for French-American hybrid grapes.
Wiemer formed a connection with Konstantin Frank, founder of Vinifera Wine Cellars since 1962 nearby, who demonstrated that European Vitis vinifera grapes could prosper in cold climates when grafted onto suitable American rootstock. Encouraged by Frank’s achievements and the local presence of peach and black cherry trees—indicators favorable for European grape cultivation—Wiemer acquired a neglected 140-acre soybean farm on Seneca Lake’s west shore near Dundee in 1973. Despite doubts from regional experts regarding vinifera survival through harsh winters, he planted Chardonnay, Riesling, and Gewurztraminer vines and expanded these plantings to nine acres each of Riesling and Chardonnay by 1978.
Additionally, Wiemer established a nursery on-site where he grafted vinifera scions onto American rootstock using imported European vines. Initially serving clients throughout New York and the Eastern United States, the nursery quickly expanded its market reach to states including Michigan, Texas, and California. Revenue generated from both the nursery and his employment at Bully Hill financed ongoing development of his vineyard.
Establishing Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard
Following the enactment of the 1976 New York Farm Winery Act—which permitted small vineyard owners to produce and sell wine directly on their premises—Wiemer founded his winery. Prior to this legislation, New York hosted only 19 wineries with none situated on Seneca Lake. In 1979, he released his inaugural vintage totaling 900 cases. At the 1980 New York State Fair wine competition, his 1979 Chardonnay earned a gold medal while his dry Riesling received bronze honors. The New York Times acknowledged him as a prominent proponent of European grape varieties within New York State.
After an unexpected dismissal from Walter Taylor in December 1980, Wiemer devoted full attention to managing his nursery, vineyard, and winery operations. By 1983, his wines were featured at distinguished establishments such as the Four Seasons and Windows on the World restaurants. Rapidly increasing demand led to production doubling from 6,000 to 12,000 cases annually by 1985. The portfolio was dominated by Riesling and Chardonnay alongside successful Champagne-style sparkling wines and Burgundy-style Pinot Noir offerings that reflected shifting consumer preferences in America. The nursery shipped approximately 350,000 vines annually nationwide while maintaining a high success rate for grafting.
By 1987, Wiemer's vineyard produced roughly 10,000 cases annually from 65 acres under cultivation with sales reaching $1 million each year. The nursery operated independently at this time and distributed about half a million vines annually across the United States. In 1988, Wiemer's 1986 Riesling became the first New York wine served onboard an international American Airlines flight—a milestone that enhanced brand visibility.
Production increased to approximately 11,000 cases by 1989 with around 35 acres dedicated to Riesling cultivation producing various styles including dry, semi-dry, late harvest, Trockenbeerenauslese selections as well as sparkling wines. By 1991 output had risen to about 15,000 cases annually from 55 acres planted. Production stabilized near 17,000 cases per year throughout the late 1990s—representing a medium-sized winery scale—with ongoing consultancy roles for California wineries alongside nationwide vine sales. By 1998 more than half of Long Island’s grapevines originated from Wiemer’s nursery stock.
Wiemer prioritized vine quality over hospitality expansions such as boutiques or dining facilities to grow sales—focusing mainly on Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir grapes plus sparkling wine production. His wines reached six eastern states’ markets and were served at upscale restaurants like Lutèce (Washington D.C.) and Oceana (New York City). Additionally, his nursery supplied vines to premier vineyards internationally.
In 1998 he purchased two vineyards located in Dresden from Taylor Wine Company—later named Magdalena and Josef after family members—to diversify wine styles between mineral-driven and fruit-forward profiles. To promote natural yeast populations and improve vineyard health, herbicide use was discontinued starting in 2003. By 2005 Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard cultivated about 60 acres of vinifera grapes with Riesling accounting for half of this acreage.
Success and retirement
In 2001, Wiemer brought on Fred Merwarth, a recent graduate specializing in agricultural business, who eventually assumed the role of winemaker at the winery.
The 2002 Riesling Reserve from Wiemer earned the Governor's Cup in 2006, an honor presented by the New York Wine and Grape Foundation to the top entry at the New York Wine Classic. This wine also secured titles for best Riesling and best white wine.
At 66 years old, Wiemer stepped down in August 2007, passing ownership to Fred Merwarth, his spouse Maressa, and Oskar Bynke, a fellow Cornell alumnus of Fred’s. Following his retirement, Wiemer relocated to Ithaca near Cayuga Lake.
Further reading
Dawson, Evan (2011). Summer in a Glass: The Coming of Age of Winemaking in the Finger Lakes. Sterling Epicure.
Lukacs, Paul B. (2000). American Vintage: The Rise of American Wine. Boston: Houghton Mifflin.
Thompson, Sarah S. (2015) Finger Lakes Wine Country (Images of America Series). Arcadia Publishing.