Hibiscus (restaurant)

Hibiscus

Company type	Private
Industry	Restaurant
Founded	2000 in Ludlow, Shropshire, England
Founder	Claude Bosi
Defunct	2016
Fate	Closed
Headquarters	London (formerly Ludlow) , England, United Kingdom
Key people	Claude Bosi (owner and chef)
Products	Fine dining, molecular gastronomy cuisine

Hibiscus was a London-based restaurant owned and operated by French chef Claude Bosi. Initially launched in 2000 in Ludlow, Shropshire, it achieved its first Michelin star within twelve months and secured a second star by the 2004 edition of the Guide. In July 2006, Bosi and his wife Claire revealed their intention to sell the Ludlow establishment and relocate nearer to London. The Ludlow property was purchased by chef Alan Murchison, while Bosi acquired a new venue on Maddox Street in London. The restaurant ceased operations in 2016.

Bosi incorporated molecular gastronomy techniques to intensify flavors, including methods like freeze-drying cabbage for use in purées. Although critical reception varied, Hibiscus appeared on The World's 50 Best Restaurants list from 2010 onward and was recognized as the UK's top restaurant by Egon Ronay in 2005. The Good Food Guide ranked it eighth nationally in 2013, and it held five AA Rosette awards.

History

Claude Bosi and his wife Claire established Hibiscus in Ludlow, Shropshire, in 2000. The restaurant, seating 36 guests, occupied the former premises of the Oaks, which had previously earned three AA Rosettes.

Before opening Hibiscus, Bosi served as head chef at Overton Grange near Ludlow, where he had obtained a Michelin star. After determining that locations in Warwickshire were financially prohibitive, he leased the former Oaks site for £40,000. Within one year of opening, Hibiscus was awarded its initial Michelin star; meanwhile, Overton Grange lost its star and eventually closed.

Sous chef Glynn Purnell worked under Bosi until 2003 before advancing to head chef at Jessica's in Edgbaston. Hibiscus earned its second Michelin star in 2004.

In July 2006, Bosi announced plans to sell Hibiscus and move closer to London. The Ludlow venue closed in April 2007; Bosi sold the property to chef Alan Murchison for £247,500 but kept the rights to the Hibiscus brand name. Following a £100,000 refurbishment led by head chef Will Holland, the restaurant was rebranded as "Le Becasse" (sic). Murchison’s business entered voluntary liquidation in 2014 with debts approaching half a million pounds.

By June 2007, Bosi had secured a location at 29 Maddox Street in London, investing approximately £1 million to acquire and renovate the space. His objective was to transplant Hibiscus’s established culinary identity rather than create an entirely new concept. Several staff members from Ludlow relocated with him, including head chef Marcus McGuinness and sommelier Simon Freeman.

After some delays, Hibiscus reopened in October 2007. The interior design featured warm orange and brown hues complemented by pale wooden paneling and a globe-shaped chandelier.

Due to the brief transition period allowing only two weeks for Michelin inspectors’ evaluations before the release of the 2008 Guide, Hibiscus was downgraded to one star but received a "rising star" designation signaling potential for regaining two stars. This period also saw staff difficulties, with three sous chefs resigning because of stress.

The restaurant regained its two-star status in the 2009 Michelin Guide as expected by industry figures such as Tom Aikens, Antonin Bonnet, and Richard Corrigan. Chef Sat Bains forecasted that Bosi would ultimately achieve a third Michelin star.

Hibiscus permanently shut its doors in 2016, just two days prior to the announcement of the 2017 Michelin Guide for the UK and Ireland.

Menu

The menu is developed by Bosi, who is acclaimed as a culinary innovator often likened to Heston Blumenthal of The Fat Duck. Signature dishes include a two-stage pork offering: first, roasted suckling pig accompanied by sea urchin, kohlrabi, and sweet potato fondant; followed by a sausage roll served with salad and truffle dressing, inspired by his daughter. Other selections feature roast chicken paired with onion fondue and licorice, while desserts highlight creations such as a chocolate tart served alongside basil ice cream.

Bosi integrates molecular gastronomy methods in his cooking, including freeze-drying Savoy cabbage to create a powdered purée, yet his primary focus remains on intensifying the inherent flavors of ingredients rather than transforming them through unconventional techniques.

Reviews

After Hibiscus relocated to London, Jay Rayner reviewed it for The Observer, acknowledging inventive elements like foie gras ice cream and an impressive sausage roll described as a "colossus," although he found the desserts lacking, critiquing an olive oil parfait as a "gloopy mess". He expressed plans to revisit for another dining experience.

Zoe Williams from The Daily Telegraph commended the restaurant’s distinctive yet effective flavor pairings, emphasizing Bosi's skill in harmonizing ingredients at their optimal freshness.

John Walsh awarded four stars for the cuisine and three stars each for atmosphere and service in The Independent; while Terry Durack gave a score of 17 out of 20.

Critics from Time Out in 2009 expressed some disappointment compared to previous visits, noting less successful food combinations but recognizing certain desserts as "faultless".

In 2011, Andy Hayler rated the venue six out of ten, lauding a venison dish featuring pear confit and smoked chocolate sauce but criticizing the overall food as "over-worked" and describing the service as "peculiarly amateurish".

Ratings and awards

In 2005, Hibiscus was among three establishments honored with three stars by the Egon Ronay Restaurant Guide, alongside The Waterside Inn and Restaurant Tom Aikens, and was also named Ronay’s Restaurant of the Year.

Hibiscus debuted on the World's 50 Best Restaurants list in 2010 at number 49, one of three British restaurants included; it climbed to 43rd place the following year.

The Good Food Guide positioned Hibiscus as the eighth-best restaurant in the UK in its 2013 edition. Moreover, the restaurant received five AA Rosette awards from The Automobile Association, highlighting its outstanding culinary standards.

External links

• Official website