House of Worth
 House of Worth at 7 Rue de la Paix, Paris in 1894 | |
| Industry | Fashion design, Fragrance |
|---|---|
| Founded | 1858 |
| Founder | Charles Frederick Worth |
| Headquarters | 7 rue de la Paix, Paris, France |
Number of locations | Paris, London |
Area served | Worldwide |
| Website | worthparis.com (archived 16 December 2019) |
The House of Worth was a prestigious French fashion establishment known for its haute couture, ready-to-wear apparel, and perfumes. Founded in 1858 by the English designer Charles Frederick Worth, the brand remained under his family's management until 1952 and ultimately ceased operations in 1956. A revival effort took place from 2010 through 2013.
The Historic House of Worth
In 1858, Charles Frederick Worth launched his fashion house at 7 Rue de la Paix alongside Otto Bobergh. Before this venture, Worth had established his reputation working with Maison Gagelin in Paris and London-based firms, gaining acclaim at Universal Expositions held in London and Paris during the 1850s.
Worth rose to fame as the official designer for Empress Eugénie, whose support significantly elevated his profile. He also created custom garments for prominent figures such as Sarah Bernhardt and Lillie Langtry, including elaborate masquerade outfits and bridal gowns.
His innovative approach involved showcasing multiple seasonal designs on live models, allowing clients to choose and personalize their garments. His work was characterized by opulent textiles, detailed embellishments, and meticulous tailoring. Affluent patrons frequently purchased entire wardrobes from the House of Worth.
The partnership with Bobergh concluded in 1871. Under Worth's guidance, the company expanded into a thriving international fashion enterprise. Following Charles Worth’s death in 1895, his sons Gaston-Lucien and Jean-Philippe assumed control.
In 1924, the business diversified into perfumery under the leadership of grandson Jacques Worth with the launch of Dans la Nuit, created by perfumer Maurice Blanchet and presented in a bottle designed by René Lalique. Between 1924 and 1947, Les Parfums Worth introduced over twenty fragrances as an independent division.
Confronted with increasing competition, the House of Worth was purchased by the House of Paquin in 1950. The direct involvement of the Worth family ended when great-grandson Roger retired in 1952. Couture production was discontinued four years later in 1956. Ownership transferred to Sidney Massin of Massin Furs in London from 1968, who attempted to sell the brand in 1987.
After couture operations ceased, Les Parfums Worth was acquired by Société Maurice Blanchet before being sold to David Reimer’s International Classic Brands in 1992. It changed ownership again in 1999 to Lenthéric and eventually became part of Shaneel Enterprises Ltd.
Fragrances of Les Parfumes Worth (1924–1947)
- Dans la Nuit (1924) – M. Blanchet/R. Lalique (bottle)
- Vers le Jour (1925) – M. Blanchet/R. Lalique (bottle)
- Sans Adieu (1929) – M. Blanchet/R. Lalique (bottle)
- Je Reviens (1932) – M. Blanchet
- Vers Toi (1934) – M. Blanchet
- Projets (1935)
- Imprudence (1938) – M. Blanchet
- Requête (1944)
The Resurrected House of Worth
In 1999, entrepreneurs Dilesh and Hitesh Mehta revived the House of Worth by merging its fashion and fragrance intellectual properties into a unified corporate structure. Giovanni Bedin was named the lead designer. The couture collections debuting in Spring/Summer 2010 reinterpreted Edwardian corsetry through the use of lace and feathers, while reshaping the expansive nineteenth-century crinolines into delicate tulle skirts reminiscent of ballerinas. Subsequent lines prominently showcased shorter skirts measuring approximately 65 centimeters in length.
The prêt-à-porter brand Courtworth made its debut in the United States in 2011. The final couture collection from the revived label was unveiled during the Fall/Winter 2013 season.
Continuing its legacy in perfumery, the revitalized house produces fragrances that include reformulated heritage scents like Dans la Nuit (2000) and Je Reviens (2005), as well as newer creations such as Je Reviens Couture (2004), W Superbe, Joyeux Retour, and Courtisan.
Further reading
- Chantal Trubert-Tollu, Françoise Vittu, Fabrice Ollivieri, and Jean-Marie Martin-Hattemberg. The House of Worth: The Birth of Haute Couture, 1858-1954. London: Thames & Hudson, 2017.
- Chantal Trubert-Tollu, Françoise Vittu, Fabrice Ollivieri et Jean-Marie Martin-Hattemberg. La Maison Worth: Naissance de la Haute Couture, 1858-1954. Paris: Ed.Bibliothèque des Arts, 2017.
- Mancoff, Debra N. (2012). Fashion in Impressionist Paris. Merrell.
- Worth, Jean Philippe. A Century of Fashion. Trans. Ruth Scott Miller. Boston: Little, Brown, and Co., 1928.
External links
- Online exhibition of Worth gowns (1860–1953) at the Museum of the City of New York.
- Worth dress, ca. 1905 in the Staten Island Historical Society Online Collections Database
- A history of feminine fashion – Mid-1920s booklet promoting Worth's influence in 19th and early 20th-century fashion.
- Worth sketch collection, 1918 from The Irene Lewisohn Costume Reference Library, The Costume Institute, The Metropolitan Museum of Art.
- Worth Perfumes and Colognes on Fragrantica
- Fragrances by Worth on Basenotes
- House of Worth garments in the Chicago History Museum costume collection