John Lobb Bootmaker
| Company type | Private (London workshop), Subsidiary (Paris branch) |
|---|---|
| Industry | Footwear, Leather goods |
| Founded | 1849 |
| Founder | John Lobb |
| Headquarters | London (bespoke workshop), Paris (ready-to-wear) , United Kingdom, France |
Area served | International |
Key people | Paula Gerbase (Artistic Director, since 2014) |
| Products | Bespoke and ready-to-wear footwear, leather accessories (wallets, belts) |
| Parent | Hermès Group (Paris branch since 1976) |
| Website | www |
John Lobb Bootmaker represents a prestigious label known for its bespoke and ready-to-wear footwear, mainly targeting a male clientele, alongside a range of leather accessories including wallets and belts. Established in 1849 by John Lobb (1829–1895), the enterprise has maintained a presence in London since 1866 and expanded operations to Paris near the turn of the 20th century. Leadership transitioned to John Lobb’s son William, and following his passing in 1916, management was assumed by Betsy Lobb.
The original bespoke workshop located at 9 St James's Street, London, remains under family ownership and functions autonomously as John Lobb Limited. In 1976, the French division was acquired by the Hermès Group, which has since propelled the John Lobb ready-to-wear shoe line on an international scale. Both branches uphold their bespoke shoemaking heritage, with the London family-run workshop and Hermès’ Paris atelier preserving high craftsmanship standards.
History
John Lobb inaugurated his initial store in Sydney, Australia, in 1854, specializing in importing footwear for men and women, with particular emphasis on women’s shoes. Partnering with master bootmaker William Cassull, Lobb earned recognition as one of the premier bootmakers within the Colony. By 1862, through collaboration with local tannery Alderson & Sons and Cassull, he crafted polished leather riding boots that received a Prize Medal at the 1862 International Exhibition.
In 1866, John Lobb established a London outlet catering to European royalty’s footwear needs. Upon his death in 1895, his son William succeeded him, choosing to uphold traditional handcrafting methods rather than adopting mechanization. Capitalizing on success in London, William launched a Paris boutique in 1901 and opened a Regent Street shop in 1904, which proved financially unsuccessful.
William wed Betsy Smerdon in 1901; after his demise in 1916, Betsy sustained the company’s operations. In 1976, Hermès secured licensing rights to utilize the "John Lobb" brand name. The family-owned firm continues crafting handmade shoes on an individual basis, producing approximately 100 pairs of ready-to-wear footwear daily. Until the 1980s, John Lobb concentrated exclusively on bespoke shoes in London and Paris; beginning in 1982, ready-to-wear collections were introduced alongside custom-made products, broadening market reach.
The London workshop was featured in the 1945 British Pathé film Shoes for the Famous and appeared in the 2016 BBC Four documentary episode Handmade: By Royal Appointment.
Present operations
John Lobb Limited’s bespoke workshop remains situated at 9 St James's Street, London, continuing as an independent family-run business.
The Paris branch joined the Hermès Group in 1976. The ready-to-wear line debuted in 1982, followed by the opening of its first exclusive boutique in Paris in 1990. In June 2014, Hermès designated Paula Gerbase as John Lobb’s inaugural Artistic Director, signaling a strategic initiative to modernize the brand’s classic footwear collection.
See also
External links
- John Lobb Limited (9 St James's Street, London)
- John Lobb SAS (under the Hermès Group)