Kevyn Aucoin
Kevyn Aucoin | |
|---|---|
| Born | Template:Birth date Shreveport, Louisiana, U.S. |
| Died | May 7, 2002 (aged 40) Valhalla, New York, U.S. |
| Occupation(s) | Make-up artist, photographer, author |
| Known for | Makeup artistry, facial contouring, authoring makeup books |
Kevyn James Aucoin (; February 14, 1962 – May 7, 2002) was a prominent American make-up artist, photographer, and author. He authored multiple books on makeup artistry, with a particular focus on facial contouring, a technique that was relatively obscure in mainstream beauty circles at the time but had been extensively utilized in drag and theatrical makeup.[1]
Early life
Born in Shreveport, Louisiana and raised in Lafayette, Louisiana, Aucoin was adopted as an infant by Isidore Adrian Aucoin and Thelma (née Melancon) Aucoin. He grew up alongside three other adopted siblings: Carla, Kim, and Keith.[2]
From an early age, Aucoin demonstrated a keen fascination with makeup, frequently applying cosmetics to his sisters and capturing their transformed appearances with a Polaroid camera. In his youth, he occasionally shoplifted makeup products but ceased this behavior due to feelings of remorse.[1][3]
He became aware of his gay identity by the age of six.[4] Although his parents were initially unaware of his sexual orientation, they later emerged as vocal supporters of LGBTQ rights, establishing a local chapter of P-FLAG.[1]
Throughout his schooling years, Aucoin endured intense bullying, including physical abuse from a teacher whom he later identified as having sexually assaulted him.[5] After the harassment intensified in high school—culminating in being pursued by peers—he left school and enrolled in cosmetology training. His aptitude quickly elevated him to an instructor role by age 18.[5]
Aucoin’s initial professional experience involved working at an upscale women’s retail store in Lafayette; however, he faced challenges as many female customers were hesitant to receive makeup services from a male artist.[1]
In 1982, seeking better opportunities, Aucoin relocated to Baton Rouge, Louisiana, where he encountered discrimination based on his sexuality. Following a violent confrontation with security personnel at Godchaux's department store, he moved to New York City accompanied by his then-partner Jed Root, who occasionally managed aspects of his career.[5]
Career
During his first year in New York City, Aucoin developed his portfolio by offering complimentary makeup services to test models while living modestly. His talent quickly attracted attention from Vogue, leading to an eighteen-month period collaborating daily with photographer Steven Meisel. Over three years, he contributed to nineteen Vogue editorials. In 1984, he partnered on Revlon’s Nakeds collection—the inaugural cosmetics line exclusively based on skin tone variations. His 1986 Vogue cover featuring the rising supermodel Cindy Crawford marked a significant career milestone and was followed by nine successive Vogue covers and seven Cosmopolitan covers between 1987 and 1989. He became one of the most highly compensated celebrity makeup artists of his time and notably declined assignments involving models he considered too young.
Aucoin’s approach emphasized enhancing each woman’s natural beauty through makeup application—a philosophy he communicated regularly through an Allure magazine column. His candid opinions sometimes generated controversy, including criticism following remarks about the National Rifle Association of America (NRA).
At just 21 years old, Aucoin was appointed Creative Director for Revlon's prestige Ultima II brand. In 1984, he introduced The New Nakeds (later renamed The Nakeds), a pioneering cosmetic range crafted to suit all skin tones. Linda Wells, editor of Allure, lauded the line for empowering women by accentuating their natural features rather than concealing them. The collection incorporated foundations with yellow undertones alongside brown-based neutral shades for eyeshadows, lipsticks, and blushes—marking a departure from the pastel and bright hues that dominated the market at the time.
Although Ultima II’s popularity waned over time, The New Nakeds revitalized interest in the brand and reestablished it as a formidable player within the prestige cosmetics sector. Aucoin’s innovative color schemes and textures significantly influenced late-20th-century makeup trends and inspired brands such as MAC, Bobbi Brown, and Laura Mercier to develop products reflecting his groundbreaking concepts.
Inoui cosmetics
Aucoin later partnered with the prominent Japanese beauty corporation Shiseido to develop their Inoui collection.
Celebrity work, writing, and appearances
Throughout his career, Aucoin collaborated with a wide array of high-profile clients, including Madonna, Whitney Houston, Cher, Tori Amos, Jewel, Julianne Moore, Sharon Stone, Brooke Shields, Christina Ricci, Isabella Rossellini, Winona Ryder, Demi Moore, Kim Basinger, Liza Minnelli, Janet Jackson, Tina Turner, Gwyneth Paltrow, Lisa Marie Presley, Courtney Love, and Vanessa L. Williams.
His expertise was showcased in several publications, including The Art of Makeup, Making Faces, and Face Forward. Two of these titles achieved Time best-seller status, with Making Faces entering the list at number one. Face Forward played a significant role in popularizing makeup sculpting and contouring techniques among a broad audience.
In recognition of his advocacy for gay and transgender youth, Aucoin was awarded an honorary diploma by Harvey Milk High School in 1999.
Personal life
Aucoin eventually found and connected with his biological parents and met his half-siblings.
He maintained a long-lasting relationship with Eric Sakas, who later assumed the roles of president and creative director at Kevyn Aucoin Beauty; they remained close friends following their separation.
Beginning in 1999, Aucoin dated Jeremy Antunes. The couple held an unofficial wedding ceremony in Hawaii in 2000, prior to the legal recognition of same-sex marriage. Additionally, Aucoin became the legal guardian of his 15-year-old niece, Samantha, who lived with them.
Death
In September 2001, Aucoin was diagnosed with a rare pituitary tumor after living with undetected acromegaly for many years. Although surgery successfully removed the tumor, he continued to endure intense pain.
To alleviate this discomfort, Aucoin increasingly depended on both prescription and over-the-counter pain medications. Despite several efforts to overcome this reliance, he was unable to fully cease using these drugs. While Antunes was traveling in Paris for a week, Aucoin's condition deteriorated rapidly, resulting in hospitalization. This episode created friction between Antunes and Aucoin’s family members, ultimately leading to Antunes being barred from their shared residence.
Aucoin passed away on May 7, 2002, at Westchester Medical Center in Valhalla, New York. The cause of death was kidney and liver failure caused by acetaminophen toxicity associated with painkiller usage. His mother, Thelma, died shortly after in October 2002. Although Aucoin had expressed the wish for his ashes to be scattered in Hawaii where he wed Antunes, they were instead interred alongside his mother in Louisiana. The Kevyn Aucoin Beauty brand has remained active since his passing.
Posthumous media
The book Kevyn Aucoin: A Beautiful Life—The Success, Struggles, and Beauty Secrets of a Legendary Makeup Artist (2003) explores his professional journey through interviews with celebrities, beauty advice, and more than 250 photographs.
The documentary Kevyn Aucoin: Beauty & The Beast In Me, directed by Lori Kaye and featuring personal footage from Aucoin’s archives, premiered at Outfest in July 2017 and aired on Logo TV in September 2017. It also appeared in Vogue’s 125th anniversary edition.
Larger Than Life: The Kevyn Aucoin Story, directed by Tiffany Bartok, details his ascent within the industry and enduring influence while emphasizing his LGBTQ activism—from openly living as a gay man to creating a family—and addressing the circumstances surrounding his premature death. The film debuted at the Hamptons International Film Festival and had its New York City premiere at Doc NYC in late 2017. Eric Sakas contributed as an associate producer for this documentary.
In popular culture
The 2002 track "Taxi Ride" by Tori Amos, featured on her album Scarlet's Walk, serves as a partial tribute to Aucoin. He made a guest appearance in Season 4, Episode 2 ("The Real Me") of HBO's Sex and the City. A devoted follower of Comedy Central's Strangers With Candy, Aucoin appeared as a funeral makeup artist alongside Amy Sedaris and Stephen Colbert in Season 2, Episode 4 ("The Goodbye Guy"). In the premiere episode "Big Butts" of Fat Actress, the makeup artist character portrayed by Kirstie Alley is named Kevyn, a nod to Aucoin.
Books authored
- The Art of Makeup, Harper-Collins, 1994. 176 pages, illustrated.
- The Art of Makeup, Perennial Currents, 1996. 176 pages, illustrated.
- Making Faces, Little, Brown, 1999. 160 pages, illustrated.
- Face Forward, Little, Brown, 2000. 175 pages, illustrated.
External links
- ↑ 1.0 1.1 1.2 1.3 Cite error: Invalid
<ref>tag; no text was provided for refs namedLevy - ↑ O'Neill, Gail (May 11, 2002). "Beauty inside Kevyn Aucoin". CNN.
- ↑ (September 2003), "Kevyn Aucoin Master of Transformation". Biography 7 (9):54–59
- ↑ Kaye, Lori (June 11, 2002), "Man of a thousand faces". Advocate, (865):57
- ↑ 5.0 5.1 5.2 Aucoin, Kevyn. Making Faces. Little, Brown and Company: New York. 1999