La Caravelle (New York City)
| Company type | Private |
|---|---|
| Industry | Restaurant |
| Founded | September 21, 1960 in Manhattan, New York City, United States |
| Founder | Fred Decré and Robert Meyzen |
| Defunct | May 22, 2004 |
| Fate | Closed |
| Headquarters | Manhattan, New York City , United States |
Key people | Roger Fessaguet (executive chef and later co-owner), André Jammet (owner from 1984) |
| Products | French cuisine |
La Caravelle was a French dining establishment situated at 33 West 55th Street in Manhattan, New York City. Established on September 21, 1960, by Fred Decré and Robert Meyzen, with Roger Fessaguet serving as the executive chef, the restaurant took its name from the caravels sailed by Christopher Columbus. Its menu, which changed daily, garnered a devoted following that included prominent individuals such as Salvador Dalí, John Lindsay, Walter Cronkite, and President John F. Kennedy—who particularly enjoyed its vichyssoise and chicken in champagne sauce.
After twenty years, Fessaguet shifted from his role as chef to become a co-owner alongside Meyzen following Decré's retirement. In 1984, when Meyzen stepped down, ownership passed to Fessaguet and André Jammet. By 1985, New York Magazine had listed La Caravelle among New York’s premier dining venues, noting its strong guidebook reviews. When Fessaguet retired in 1988, the Jammets assumed full ownership and refreshed the interior in 1990 with a new palette and commissioned artist Nina Duran to paint a mural.
Although it earned the James Beard Foundation’s Most Outstanding Restaurant award in 2004, La Caravelle ceased operations on May 22 of that year. The Jammets had expanded the brand by launching champagnes under the La Caravelle label in 1997; this house brand became influential in the luxury beverage sector.
History
The original proprietors were Fred Decré and Robert Meyzen, with Roger Fessaguet appointed as head chef. Decré and Meyzen, who had served as maîtres d’hôtel at Le Pavillon, departed to open their own venue within Manhattan’s Shoreham Hotel, recruiting Fessaguet from Le Pavillon as executive chef. The restaurant’s name paid homage to the caravels used by Christopher Columbus, symbolizing a fresh venture in the culinary world. To decorate the space—once a Prohibition-era speakeasy—they commissioned artist Jean Pagès to create murals depicting Parisian scenes. Pagès completed these murals during the 1960s; notably, one was unintentionally altered during a visit by Salvador Dalí.
Reflecting many European eateries of its time, La Caravelle offered a menu that shifted daily, which helped build a loyal customer base. Distinguished patrons included Salvador Dalí, John Lindsay, Leland Hayward, Dorothy Kilgallen, and journalist Walter Cronkite—who favored pike quenelles in lobster cream sauce. Other regulars comprised the Duke and Duchess of Windsor and Marlene Dietrich.
Joseph P. Kennedy Sr., formerly a patron of Le Pavillon, became a frequent visitor after La Caravelle's opening and it evolved into a preferred dining spot for the Kennedy family. Shortly after the restaurant began operations, Fessaguet selected and trained René Verdon to serve as White House chef for President John F. Kennedy; Verdon collaborated with Fessaguet on dishes favored by the Kennedys. Verdon later owned Le Trianon in San Francisco during the 1970s and 1980s. President Kennedy particularly enjoyed La Caravelle’s vichyssoise and chicken in champagne sauce—rebranded on the menu as "White House Chicken"—often requesting these dishes for takeout during his travels.
In 1964, La Caravelle hosted a Kennedy family reunion where discussions reportedly included Robert F. Kennedy’s possible vice-presidential nomination at that year’s Democratic National Convention. Although Joseph P. Kennedy was a regular diner, he did not hold any financial stake in the restaurant.
Lunch preparation at La Caravelle
By 7:30 a.m., head chef Roger Fessaguet would finalize that day’s lunch offerings, estimate patron numbers, and place orders for ingredients. An hour later, kitchen staff began vegetable preparation while sauces simmered; simultaneously, the pastry chef worked on desserts. By noon, waitstaff were dressed in uniform and dishes were plated on silver trays. Service commenced at 12:45 p.m., accommodating approximately 92 guests by 2 p.m.
In 1967, La Caravelle’s lunch service was featured in the short film French Lunch, which highlighted the kitchen’s comprehensive meal preparation.
Management and cuisine changes
Two decades after its inception, Fessaguet moved from his position as head chef to become co-owner alongside Robert Meyzen following Fred Decré's retirement. When Meyzen retired in 1984, Fessaguet partnered with André Jammet to manage the restaurant together. By 1985, New York Magazine had acknowledged La Caravelle as one of New York City’s leading restaurants with top ratings across most culinary guides. Upon Fessaguet’s retirement in 1988, ownership fully transferred to Jammet and his wife.
In 1990, the Jammets redecorated the interior using green and peach tones and commissioned artist Nina Duran to paint a new mural in the foyer. Starting in 2001, they updated the menu to suit modern palates while relegating traditional French dishes to a smaller "Les Classiques" section. Ultimately choosing not to renew their lease led to La Caravelle closing its doors in 2004.
Last night of business
On its final evening of operation, La Caravelle welcomed both longtime patrons and first-time visitors eager to experience this iconic New York institution. Among those dining were Walter Cronkite and his wife—customers for over four decades—joined by colleague Andy Rooney and his daughter. A family booked a table in memory of a late relative who had been a regular guest. Walk-in guests were accommodated at both bar seats and tables; one couple was seated at a table formerly reserved for Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, who frequented the restaurant after marrying Aristotle Onassis. One woman described her visit as her finest New York experience ever, underscoring the establishment’s cultural significance.
Though La Caravelle did not traditionally offer entertainment, for its closing night the Jammets arranged for tenor Robert White, a Juilliard instructor and original patron since 1960, to perform "Danny Boy". In its final year of operation, it received the James Beard Foundation’s Most Outstanding Restaurant award. The legacy continues through champagnes launched under its house label beginning in 1997—a strategic move by the Jammets into luxury beverage markets.
External links
- 1960 establishments in New York City
- 2004 disestablishments in New York (state)
- American companies disestablished in 2004
- American companies established in 1960
- Defunct French restaurants in Manhattan
- Midtown Manhattan
- Restaurants disestablished in 2004
- Restaurants established in 1960
- Companies of the United States by year of establishment