Longchamp (company)

Longchamp
Company type	Private
Industry	Leather goods, fashion
Founded	1 January 1948; 78 years ago in Paris, France
Founder	Jean Cassegrain
Headquarters	Paris, France
Area served	Worldwide (80 countries)
Key people	Jean Cassegrain (CEO), Sophie Delafontaine (Artistic director), Olivier Cassegrain (Director, USA boutiques)
Products	Leather and canvas handbags, luggage, footwear, travel accessories, fashion items, women's ready-to-wear apparel
Owner	Cassegrain family (private ownership)
Number of employees	3,200 (2018)
Website	www.longchamp.com

Longchamp () is a French company specializing in leather goods, established in Paris in 1948 by Jean Cassegrain. Originally focused on crafting luxury leather-covered pipes, Longchamp broadened its product range to include small leather accessories and introduced women's handbags in 1971, securing its position as a premier French leather goods manufacturer. The brand currently designs and produces leather and canvas handbags, luggage, footwear, travel accessories, fashion items, and women's ready-to-wear apparel. Remaining under private ownership, the Cassegrain family continues to manage Longchamp, which maintains a presence in 80 countries through roughly 1,500 retail locations.

Early history

In 1948, Jean Cassegrain inherited his father's longstanding Parisian tobacco business named "Au Sultan." Following World War II, he supplied tobacco products and smoking accessories to Allied forces, with pipe sales emerging as the most lucrative sector.

During the post-war period, Jean Cassegrain diversified his offerings by launching the world’s first luxury pipes covered in exotic leathers during the 1950s. These products attracted international celebrities including Elvis Presley. To expand market reach while avoiding confusion with relatives involved in fine paper sales under the family name, he established Jean Cassegrain et compagnie, marketing under a distinct brand identity.

He chose the name Longchamp after the Parisian Longchamp Racecourse, associating it with a nearby flour mill—a nod to the French meaning of "Cassegrain," which translates as "crush grain." The brand’s emblem features a jockey riding a galloping horse, reflecting this heritage.

1950s to 1980s

Following the success of leather-covered pipes, Jean Cassegrain extended Longchamp’s product line to include small leather goods such as passport covers, wallets, bags, and additional men’s accessories.

By the early 1950s, Longchamp pursued international growth by recruiting an export manager and expanding its global footprint. Jean and his son Philippe concentrated on emerging markets, inaugurating boutiques across Southeast Asia during the late 1970s. Longchamp became among the first European brands to penetrate markets in Singapore, Hong Kong, and Japan, transforming into a worldwide enterprise.

Company's first women's handbag

Longchamp made a significant breakthrough in the 1970s by pioneering nylon bags. They introduced a collection of leather-and-nylon luggage that offered lightweight alternatives to traditional heavy suitcases. Philippe Cassegrain designed a khaki nylon and leather line that achieved considerable success and created the foldable Xtra-Bag—a forerunner to the iconic Le Pliage handbag.

Identifying increasing female demand for handbags, Longchamp launched its inaugural women's handbag in 1971 by adapting a toiletry case with an added shoulder strap. From that point forward, the company shifted focus towards luggage and women’s handbags. In 1978, it unveiled the LM line—the first collection of printed leather handbags for women—and gradually discontinued smoker accessories.

In 1983, Philippe assumed the role of CEO and appointed his wife Michèle to oversee retail operations. Their eldest son Jean joined the firm in 1991, followed by daughter Sophie as artistic director, ensuring ongoing family stewardship.

1990s to present

A defining moment for Longchamp came in 1993 when CEO Philippe Cassegrain introduced the iconic Le Pliage handbag. This design masterfully blends functionality with elegance, showcasing a lightweight nylon canvas body paired with handles crafted from Russian leather. Its unique envelope-like trapezoidal foldable shape has made it Longchamp's bestselling item and one of the most sought-after handbags globally.

Longchamp has collaborated with various designers and artists, including Tracey Emin, Mary Katrantzou, Jeremy Scott, and Sarah Morris, to offer fresh interpretations of the Le Pliage collections.

In September 2018, celebrating its 70th anniversary, Longchamp debuted its inaugural fashion show at New York Fashion Week, drawing high-profile attendees such as Kendall Jenner, Kate Moss, Kaia Gerber, and Isabelle Huppert. Jenner was appointed brand ambassador in April 2018 and starred in the short film "The Encounter," directed by John Christopher Pina.

February 2019 saw Longchamp present its fall-winter collection on Wall Street in New York City. By August 2020, the brand unveiled Green District, its first environmentally conscious line crafted from recycled nylon fiber known as “Econyl,” marking a deliberate shift towards sustainability.

Corporate structure

The leadership of Longchamp remains within the Cassegrain family’s third generation, direct descendants of founder Jean Cassegrain:

Jean Cassegrain serves as Chief Executive Officer
Sophie Delafontaine holds the position of Artistic director
Olivier Cassegrain oversees USA boutique operations as Director

Michèle Cassegrain, who managed boutiques, passed away in November 2016.

With an estimated value of $1.5 billion, Longchamp’s family ownership ensures stability and facilitates long-term strategic vision. It continues to be among the few remaining family-run leather goods manufacturers in France. Philippe Cassegrain died in November 2020 due to complications related to Covid-19.

Collaborations

Artistic and design collaborations have been central to Longchamp’s brand identity since the 1950s. Early exposure included appearances in French cinema and partnerships with artists such as Serge Mendjisky in the 1970s, who introduced leather patchwork bags.

In 2004, Longchamp joined forces with designer Thomas Heatherwick to create the highly successful Zip Bag and to design its flagship store in New York. Around this period, Tracey Emin customized luggage pieces and designed a patchwork bag featuring the phrase ‘Me Every Time’.

Jeremy Scott has been a significant collaborator since 2005, creating over 20 special editions of the Le Pliage tote that draw inspiration from pop culture themes like zodiac symbols and tire tread patterns. His decade-long collaboration culminated in a limited-edition collection celebrating Hollywood.

Kate Moss contributed to Longchamp’s offerings by incorporating unique details such as red lining on the Legende bag and launching a collection inspired by her metropolitan lifestyle, naming bags after her preferred London neighborhoods.

Between 2011 and 2012, Longchamp partnered with designer Mary Katrantzou to produce printed tote bags featuring striking colors and motifs influenced by Asian temples and New York cityscapes. In 2014, artist Sarah Morris designed a limited-edition series of Le Pliage handbags.

Longchamp has also undertaken art-related projects within its stores; for example, during renovations in 2016, its historic rue Saint-Honoré boutique in Paris was wrapped with Ryan McGinness' "Mindscapes."

Other notable collaborations include working with Franco-Armenian artist Vahram Muratyan in 2017 and launching a capsule collection in 2018 with Shayne Oliver, founder of streetwear label Hood By Air. This collection encompassed leather accessories, footwear, ready-to-wear apparel, and garment bags for SS18.

In September 2020, Longchamp teamed up with Pokémon for a Le Pliage collaboration featuring Pikachu wearing a jockey cap—a tribute to the brand’s heritage—and incorporated this design into Pokémon Go through customizable virtual backpacks.

Production

Jean Cassegrain initially acquired smoking accessories, primarily pipes, which were then wrapped in leather by skilled artisans from Paris. As the brand flourished and its product offerings broadened, Longchamp established its inaugural workshop in Segré, France, in 1959.

The manufacturing capabilities grew with the addition of new sites in Rémalard (1969), Ernée (1972), and subsequently during the 2000s in Combrée, Château-Gontier, and Montournais. Longchamp maintains the majority of its production within France through its proprietary workshops, operating the country's largest leather manufacturing facility. Six factories located in France are responsible for producing half of the handbags sold, while the remainder is crafted by external partners.

In September 2018, Longchamp inaugurated a state-of-the-art 7,000-square-meter production center in Pouzauges, Vendée, marking its sixth workshop on French soil. This advanced facility merges leather workshops previously situated in Montournais and incorporates a training center dedicated to workforce development. The site increased its workforce capacity from 70 to 100 employees.

For its ready-to-wear apparel and footwear lines, Longchamp contracts specialized manufacturers mainly based in France and Italy.

By 2018, approximately 50% of Longchamp’s output was produced domestically in France, employing around 900 individuals across its western French production sites.

Boutiques

To support its expansion efforts in 2013, Longchamp invested in logistics by constructing a new 23,000 m² distribution center in Segré, France—twice the size of its former facility. The company manages an extensive international distribution network and offers a diverse product portfolio.

Longchamp’s presence spans 80 countries worldwide, including markets such as Brazil, Israel, UAE, Peru, Chile, Paraguay, Canada, Austria, Macao, Cambodia, Malaysia, Thailand, Philippines, and Indonesia. The brand aims to grow further in the Middle East with a particular focus on Saudi Arabia and Qatar. Additionally, it operates franchised stores in Mexico, Venezuela, and Colombia.

By 2018, Longchamp operated 1,500 retail points globally, comprising 300 flagship boutiques. The company employed roughly 3,200 people worldwide across company-owned stores and franchises as well as department store concessions, multi-brand leather goods retailers, airport outlets, and online sales through 20 distribution subsidiaries.

North America

Since the 1950s, Longchamp products have been available through American retailers. Its first standalone US store opened on Madison Avenue in 1984. Early key American retail partners included Saks Fifth Avenue and Nordstrom followed by Bloomingdale's. In 1993, Longchamp established a New York City office to facilitate business development.

In 2006, Longchamp launched its largest US flagship store named "La Maison Unique" located in New York City's SoHo. The store was designed by Thomas Heatherwick—the same designer behind the Zip Bag handbag that became one of Longchamp’s most popular items.

By 2014, the brand operated 17 stores across North America. In April 2018, it unveiled a new flagship location on New York’s 5th Avenue and expanded further with a boutique opening in Beverly Hills, California.

Europe

Longchamp debuted its first exclusive boutique in Paris, France at 390 rue Saint-Honoré in 1988. By 1999, this Paris location relocated to a larger space at 404 rue Saint-Honoré to accommodate increased sales.

In 2013, Longchamp opened a boutique on London’s prestigious Regent Street, establishing it as the brand’s largest European store and second largest worldwide after New York City.

December 2014 saw the launch of an expanded boutique on Paris’ Champs-Élysées. Spanning 500 square meters over two floors, this flagship is Longchamp’s biggest European retail space featuring an extensive range of leather goods for men and women alongside luggage collections as well as women's ready-to-wear apparel and footwear. This location also prominently displays the iconic Le Pliage handbag line and attracts both local Parisians and international visitors.

Longchamp maintains retail operations in key European cities such as London, Rome, Barcelona, Munich, and Vienna.

Asia

Longchamp made its debut in mainland China in 2006.

By 2011, the brand launched "La Maison 8," a flagship outlet in Hong Kong, ranking as the company's second largest store globally after SoHo. The following year, Longchamp had grown to 50 retail locations throughout China, including major cities such as Beijing and Shanghai.

In 2014, the company managed 22 stores across Southeast Asia, which contributed to 10% of its worldwide revenue.

October 2017 marked the opening of Longchamp's largest boutique in Asia, situated on Omotesando Avenue in Tokyo. Occupying seven floors, this store showcases the full range of collections, including luggage, ready-to-wear apparel, footwear, and leather accessories. The premises are adorned with a fresco created by Australian artist John Aslanidis.

In 2018, Longchamp partnered with Chinese influencer Tao Liang (known as Mr. Bags) to develop a capsule collection. At that time, the brand operated 18 stores within China and announced plans to introduce its e-commerce platform for the Chinese market in 2019.

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