Paul Draper (winemaker)
Paul Draper | |
|---|---|
| Born | March 10, 1936 Evanston, Illinois, U.S. |
| Occupation | Winemaker |
| Years active | 1969–2016 (head winemaker at Ridge Vineyards) |
| Known for | Head winemaker at Ridge Vineyards; 1971 Monte Bello Cabernet Sauvignon; revival of California Zinfandel; vineyard-designated bottlings |
Paul Draper (born March 10, 1936) is a distinguished winemaker from California who has held the position of head winemaker at Ridge Vineyards since 1969. Despite lacking formal enological education, Draper earned recognition when his 1971 Monte Bello Cabernet Sauvignon secured fifth place at the renowned Judgment of Paris tasting. He played a pivotal role in shaping California's wine legacy by advancing the concept of "vineyard-designated" bottlings and revitalizing the tradition of old vine Zinfandel. Alongside Joel Peterson of Ravenswood Winery, Draper is acknowledged for rescuing Zinfandel from neglect and demonstrating its capacity as a distinguished varietal. His work was highlighted in the 2017 short film Terroir, which was showcased at the Cinequest Film Festival.
Early history
Born in Evanston, Illinois in 1936, Draper's upbringing on a farm introduced him early to agricultural life. He completed his education at The Choate School and later at Stanford University, where he studied philosophy and first became acquainted with Ridge Vineyard, then operated by engineers from Stanford Research Institute. After graduating in 1959, Draper served in the U.S. Army with a posting in Italy. The exposure to Italian culture and viticulture during this period inspired him to pursue studies in French culinary arts and nutrition at the Sorbonne.
Upon returning to the United States, Draper gained hands-on experience as a cellar assistant during harvest season at Chateau Souverain in Napa Valley. The subsequent year, he joined a Peace Corps initiative in Chile, where together with fellow volunteer Fritz Maytag, he leased a winery. This opportunity allowed him to develop practical winemaking skills working with local Cabernet vines while deepening his theoretical understanding through extensive study. In 1968, Draper visited Bordeaux and engaged with Château Latour’s maître de chai, an encounter that encouraged him to accept the chief winemaker position at Ridge Vineyards under David Bennion’s leadership in 1969.
Ridge Vineyards
During Paul Draper's tenure, Ridge Vineyards underwent modernization of its historic 1886 winery facilities and concentrated efforts on enhancing its Cabernet Sauvignon offerings. Draper advocated for the distinctive qualities of cool climate Cabernet produced from Ridge’s elevated vineyards within the Santa Cruz Mountains AVA, which benefit from the cooling influence of the nearby Pacific Ocean. This climate starkly contrasts with warmer appellations such as Napa Valley and Sonoma County. Adopting the French notion of terroir, Draper was instrumental in introducing single-vineyard bottlings like Monte Bello, Picchetti Vineyard, Jimsomare, and Geyserville, thereby strengthening Ridge’s brand identity.
The Cabernet Sauvignons crafted under Draper’s guidance are frequently compared to traditional Old World Bordeaux wines and have been favorably likened to the esteemed First Growths. He deliberately sought to emulate this style and notably conducted blind tastings pitting Monte Bello against Château Latour. Although he retired as CEO and Winemaker in 2016, Draper continued contributing as chairman of the board.
Judgement of Paris
The 1971 Monte Bello Cabernet Sauvignon was selected by Steven Spurrier for the historic 1976 blind tasting that challenged California wines against France’s finest labels. This vintage represented Ridge’s initial balanced wine featuring reduced grape sugar levels alongside measured additions of Merlot, Petit Verdot, and Cabernet Franc. It was fermented to dryness with prolonged skin contact, underwent malolactic fermentation, and matured in small American oak barrels. While anticipated to reach its prime after six years, it ultimately achieved fifth place overall and ranked second among American entries behind Stag's Leap Wine Cellars.
In the 2006 re-tasting event, the 1971 Monte Bello emerged as the highest-ranked red wine, outperforming the original tasting’s top American contender—the 1973 Stag's Leap. Additionally, a separate evaluation of more recent vintages saw the 2000 Monte Bello secure second place behind a 2000 Château Margaux.
Impact on California Zinfandel
During the late 1960s and early 1970s, Zinfandel was primarily regarded as a grape for mass-produced jug wines. Draper perceived its true potential when cultivated in select sites with restricted yields. Prior to his engagement, Ridge produced limited quantities of Zinfandel, frequently blending it with Carignane and Petite Sirah, without dedicating much attention to the variety. Throughout California, serious vintners largely overlooked this grape. Inspired by European practices emphasizing "old vines" and minimal yields, Draper sought out vineyards with Zinfandel plantings dating back to the late 19th century. Over his career, he pinpointed crucial regions for crafting high-quality Zinfandel, such as Spring Mountain, Howell Mountain, Dry Creek Valley, Mendocino, Lodi, Paso Robles, Amador County, and Geyserville. Although these areas had longstanding Zinfandel heritage, their prominence was significantly elevated through Draper’s efforts and Ridge’s vineyard-designated wines that highlighted distinctive terroirs.
Winemaking philosophy
Draper champions a natural winemaking approach that allows the vineyard’s unique characteristics to shine without excessive human manipulation. While Ridge does not hold organic certification, Draper disapproves of wines that are overly oaked or excessively alcoholic from overripe grapes, preferring elegance and harmony instead. He has voiced criticism against inflated pricing and wine speculation that detracts from genuine enjoyment. Draper has also challenged UC Davis’s emphasis on industrial viticulture techniques, advocating instead for more traditional methods. Typically, his wines have an alcohol content near 13% ABV—lower than many California Cabernets and akin to Bordeaux standards—and often utilize American oak barrels to better complement their French-influenced style.
Throughout his career, Paul Draper has left a mark on numerous winemakers both within the United States and internationally; prominent figures such as Jean-Luc Colombo regard him as a favorite among non-European producers.
Honors
- 2000: Distinguished Service Award from Wine Spectator
- 2005: Lifetime Achievement Award from Wein Gourmet, Germany
- 2006: Winemaker of the Year by the San Francisco Chronicle