Paul Masson
Paul Masson | |
|---|---|
| Born | Template:Birth date Merceuil, Burgundy, France |
| Died | October 22, 1940 (aged 81) San Jose, California, U.S. |
| Occupation | Vintner |
| Known for | Foundational figure in California winemaking; Paul Masson Champagne Company; "Champagne King of California" |
Paul Masson (February 14, 1859 – October 22, 1940) was a French-born American vintner and a foundational figure in California winemaking, best known for his signature Californian sparkling wines.
Biography
Originating from Merceuil, a village in Burgundy near Beaune renowned for its wine heritage, Masson descended from esteemed winemaking families. After completing his secondary education in 1877, he emigrated to the United States to reside on his uncle Louis Grozelier's vineyard located in San Jose, California. By 1879, Masson apprenticed under Charles Lefranc, a French immigrant and proprietor of the Almaden Vineyard and Wine Company, who played a significant role in expanding viticulture within the Santa Clara Valley. In 1880, Masson returned to France to complete his studies at The Sorbonne but soon came back to San Jose amid France’s phylloxera epidemic, taking on the role of winemaker at Almaden.
In 1886, Masson became engaged to Louise Lefranc, Charles Lefranc’s daughter. Following Lefranc’s passing in 1887, Masson acquired 573 acres in Saratoga, naming the property La Cresta. He planted 60 acres with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay vines sourced from Burgundy. Together with his brother-in-law Henri Lefranc, he operated the winery under the name Paul Masson Champagne Company (today known as The Mountain Winery). In 1892, Masson launched his first sparkling wine branded as "champagne" at Almaden and earned the moniker "Champagne King of California" after receiving accolades at the 1900 Paris Exposition.
Following damage caused by the 1906 San Francisco earthquake, La Cresta underwent restoration by 1907. Masson became a member of California's Board of State Viticultural Commissioners in 1913 and secured a grand prize at the 1915 Panama–Pacific International Exposition. The onset of Prohibition severely affected his enterprise; consequently, the company pivoted to canned fruit production while still offering limited sacramental and medicinal wines. In 1930, Masson sold his vineyard and, lacking heirs to continue the legacy, transferred ownership of the winery and brand rights to neighboring vintner Martin Ray in 1933.
Throughout the 1930s, Masson frequently traveled back to France. He passed away at his residence in San Jose on October 22, 1940. His daughter scattered his ashes over his estate and established a mausoleum for him at Oak Hill Memorial Park.
Winery
Masson expanded his operations into the Santa Cruz Mountains above Saratoga, California, constructing a "chateau" overlooking the Santa Clara Valley in 1905. Presently known as "The Mountain Winery", this site is listed on the National Register of Historic Places, although wine production ceased there in 1952. Today, it serves as a venue for conferences and events such as concerts and weddings. Around the year 2000, new proprietors engaged winemaker Jeffrey Patterson to revive winemaking activities on-site; vineyards were replanted by 2004.
Advertising
The Paul Masson brand gained significant recognition through a marketing campaign from 1978 to 1981 featuring actor-director Orson Welles, who famously declared: "We will sell no wine before its time." A widely circulated blooper reel shows Welles struggling with lines while apparently intoxicated.
Welles was dismissed in 1981 after admitting on television that he had stopped drinking wine due to dieting; he was briefly succeeded by actor John Gielgud.
Despite initial gains from this campaign, Paul Masson's image has faced enduring challenges post-founder’s death in 1940, often being linked with inexpensive wines. As noted by The New York Times in 1990: "Though many consumers recognize them—who could forget Orson Welles's breathy utterance of 'We will sell no wine before its time'—they lack prestige."
Paul Masson and NASA
During the 1970s, NASA procured Masson Rare Cream Sherry for use on a Skylab mission and conducted trials aboard a "zero-G" aircraft. Unfortunately, the aroma rapidly spread throughout the cabin, resulting in nausea among the astronauts. Due to widespread public resistance to alcohol consumption in space, NASA ultimately decided to discontinue these experiments.
Martin Ray (1936–42)
Following the passing of his wife Louise Lefranc in 1936, Masson opted to sell the winery. Martin Ray, a California wine pioneer who had been guided by Paul Masson, purchased the winery and its vineyards.
After Masson's death in 1940, Ray sold the property in 1942 and used the funds to acquire land opposite the original Paul Masson vineyards in Saratoga. There, he planted Burgundian Pinot noir and Chardonnay cuttings sourced from the Masson estate, producing varietal wines under what evolved into Mount Eden Vineyards from 1943 through 1972.
Seagram Company (1942–87)
Six years after Martin Ray's acquisition, he sold Paul Masson to Seagram Company, Ltd., a Canadian multinational wine and spirits corporation that maintained ownership for 45 years. By 1952, Seagram had ceased operations at Masson's Saratoga estate as an active winery.
Confronted with declining sales during the 1970s, Seagram enlisted Orson Welles (1978–81) and subsequently John Gielgud (1982–85) as advertising figures. In the 1980s, Seagram purchased Taylor California Cellars along with its production facilities from Coca-Cola, aiming to rival Gallo's high-volume sales approach. Nonetheless, market segmentation over the following two decades led to internal brand competition between Seagram’s holdings such as Paul Masson and Taylor California Cellars, which diminished their collective market presence.
Vintners International (1987–93)
Amid these difficulties, Seagram divested Paul Masson to Vintners International in 1987. Vintners International declared bankruptcy six years thereafter.
Centera (1993–2021); renamed Constellation Brands from 2000
In 1993, during Vintners International's bankruptcy proceedings, Centera Wine Company (formerly Canandaigua) of New York acquired Vintners. Canandaigua rebranded itself as Constellation Brands in 2000. Under Constellation’s ownership, Paul Masson’s portfolio included two primary categories: brandies and wines.
In 2008, Constellation divested the Paul Masson wine division and winery to Wine Group LLC but retained production of Paul Masson brandies until 2021.
Beginning in 2019, Constellation undertook a significant restructuring initiative focused on “power brands” with price points exceeding $11 per bottle. This strategy involved discontinuing or divesting approximately 40% of its portfolio, including lower-priced Paul Masson brandies. Although a purchaser was identified, approval from the Federal Trade Commission was only granted in 2021.
Divestment of the wines and winery to Wine Group LLC (2008–18)
In a transaction valued at $134 million in 2008, Wine Group LLC of San Francisco acquired the Paul Masson winery—which had halted winemaking activities since 1952 and currently operates as an event venue—and renamed it The Mountain Winery.
The acquisition also encompassed two California wine labels from Constellation, notably including Paul Masson table wines: white, red, and rosé selections crafted from California grapes and packaged in distinctive jam-jar style "carafe" bottles. Around 2018, Wine Group discontinued production of the Paul Masson wine range.
Acquisition of the brandies by E. & J. Gallo (2021–present)
Negotiations began in 2019 when E & J Gallo Winery from Modesto, California sought to purchase the Paul Masson brandy line from Constellation Brands. The Federal Trade Commission granted approval for this transaction in 2021, allowing production to relocate back to California after nearly three decades of being based in New York. At present, Paul Masson wines are not produced, as the Wine Group LLC holds those rights and halted production in 2018. By 2024, Paul Masson table wines have become part of Gallo's product offerings.