Phil Howard (chef)

Philip Howard
Born	1966 Johannesburg, South Africa
Nationality	South African and British
Occupation(s)	Chef, restaurateur
Years active	1988–present
Known for	Co-founder of The Square; chef patron of Elystan Street

Philip Howard (born 1966) is a chef, restaurateur, and chef patron holding dual South African and British nationality. He honed his culinary expertise under the guidance of Marco Pierre White at Harveys and later with Simon Hopkinson at Bibendum. Alongside White’s then-business associate Nigel Platts-Martin, Howard co-founded the London-based restaurant The Square in December 1991, despite having limited prior experience in managing a restaurant.

Howard led The Square through its transition from St James's to Mayfair in 1997, maintaining Michelin star status from 1994 until 2016. In March 2016, he and Platts-Martin divested their interests in The Square. Subsequently, in September of the same year, Howard collaborated with Rebecca Mascarenhas to launch Elystan Street, occupying the former location of Tom Aikens’ establishment in Chelsea. Under Howard’s direction, Elystan Street has consistently held one Michelin star since 2017.

In addition to these ventures, Howard owns multiple other dining establishments and has been recognized by prominent industry organizations such as The Caterer, The AA, and GQ. His television appearances include guest spots on Saturday Kitchen and participation as both contestant and judge on Great British Menu.

Early life and education

Born in Johannesburg, South Africa, in 1966, Philip Howard is the son of an accountant and businessman father and a homemaker mother. At seven years old, he relocated with his family to England. He holds a bachelor's degree in microbiology from the University of Kent.

Early cooking career

Howard’s interest in cooking emerged during his university years. After completing his degree in 1988, he opted to pursue a culinary path rather than microbiology. His early experience included a summer stint at a chateau in Dordogne and a brief period in Australia where he prepared and sold food from a vintage 1969 Volkswagen Kombi. Upon returning to England, he joined Roux Restaurants Ltd’s catering division, led by Albert and Michel Roux.

After dining at Harveys and admiring the cuisine of chef Marco Pierre White, Howard secured a position as chef de partie there in 1989, where he refined his skills in contemporary French cooking. His tenure lasted nine months until White dismissed him for overcooking White’s signature creamed potatoes.

Following this, Howard worked as chef de partie at Bibendum under Simon Hopkinson, drawing inspiration from the restaurant’s emphasis on quality ingredients, flavor balance, and simplicity. Despite his departure from Harveys, Howard kept in touch with White, who invited him back to sample new dishes being developed at Harveys.

The Square (1991–2016)

In 1990, Howard rejoined Marco Pierre White at Harveys, where he trained as a prospective head chef for White and his then-partner Nigel Platts-Martin. After their partnership dissolved, Howard teamed up with Platts-Martin—both novices in restaurant management—to open The Square fine dining establishment on King Street in St James's on 13 December 1991. Howard took on the roles of head chef and co-owner, concentrating on refined yet straightforward contemporary French cuisine. The Square was awarded its inaugural Michelin star in December 1994.

The venue moved to its current location in Mayfair in February 1997 and secured a second Michelin star by January 1998. From 2007 through 2016, it retained four AA Rosettes and consistently received an eight out of ten rating from the Good Food Guide.

Howard and Platts-Martin sold The Square to Marlon Abela Restaurant Corporation (MARC) in March 2016. Due to MARC’s financial troubles, property administrators unexpectedly shut down The Square during lunch service in January 2020.

Howard also authored two cookbooks titled The Square: The Cookbook, with the volumes Savoury released in 2012 and Sweet published in 2013.

Other restaurants and services

In July 2005, Howard partnered with Nigel Platts-Martin to launch the Michelin-starred establishment The Ledbury. Brett Graham, who previously served as sous chef at The Square, advanced to head chef and subsequently chef patron at The Ledbury. Although Howard held ownership stakes, his day-to-day involvement was less than that of Platts-Martin. The Ledbury ceased operations indefinitely in June 2020 due to the difficulties posed by COVID-19 social distancing measures but resumed service in January 2022.

Howard's portfolio also includes more informal dining venues. Since October 2009, he has co-owned Kitchen W8 in Kensington alongside Rebecca Mascarenhas, the former proprietor of the location. Kitchen W8 achieved its inaugural Michelin star in 2011 and has preserved this accolade each year thereafter. Additionally, Howard and Mascarenhas co-managed Sonny's Kitchen (later renamed Church Road) starting in 2012, with Church Road reopening in 2019 at the site previously occupied by Sonny's.

September 2016 saw Howard and Mascarenhas introduce Elystan Street in Chelsea, a restaurant offering a more relaxed atmosphere compared to The Square. The menu features at least a quarter vegetarian options and is designed with less complexity, mirroring Howard’s culinary evolution. Elystan Street was awarded its first Michelin star in 2017 and has maintained it continuously.

Between May 2019 and January 2020, Howard and Mascarenhas briefly operated Gezellig, a London wine-centric restaurant headed by chef Graham Long.

Howard also owned Union, a dining establishment located at the La Plagne ski resort in France, which opened in December 2017 in partnership with Martin Cuchet. Alongside this venture, Howard acquired and refurbished a chalet there for family use. Union closed permanently in April 2024.

In May 2021, Howard introduced Otto, a London-based pasta delivery service that was later renamed Notto following legal issues. By November 2022, he had launched a Notto pasta restaurant on Piccadilly Road together with partner Julian Dyer.

Judging career

Howard led the chef judging panel for the 21st Young Chef Young Waiter competition in 2005. He also served as a judge for the Chef Award at the 2010 Catey Awards—an honor received by Mark Hix—and evaluated candidates for the Restaurateur of the Year (Independent) category at the 2016 Catey Awards.

Television

While generally steering clear of television appearances, Howard made guest appearances on MasterChef: The Professionals starting October 2009, Market Kitchen on Good Food, and Saturday Kitchen beginning December 2011. During the seventh season of Great British Menu, he was among four victorious chefs whose dishes were presented at the Olympians' banquet held in Greenwich shortly before the London Olympics in 2012; his dish featured Cornish mackerel accompanied by oysters, mussels, winkles, and samphire. Subsequently, he has occasionally appeared as a first-round chef judge during regional heats of the series.

Accolades

Howard earned the Chef Award at the Catey Awards in 1998, was recognized as Restaurant Chef at the Craft Guild of Chefs Awards in 2005, and received the Chefs' Chef title at the AA Hospitality Awards for 2008–09. He was named Restaurateur of the Year (Independent) at the Catey Awards in 2011, awarded Chefs' Chef of the Year at the National Restaurant Awards in 2016, honored as Best Chef at GQ Food & Drink Awards in 2017, and received the Mentor Chef Award during the Michelin Great Britain and Ireland special awards in 2022.

Additional honors include the Special Award from the Craft Guild of Chefs Awards in 2011 and the Chef's Chef Award at the National Restaurant Awards in 2012. The Caterer consistently ranked Howard among the UK’s top 100 most influential hospitality figures: placing him 78th in 2005, rising to 43rd in 2010, then 51st in 2011, climbing to 37th in 2012 before ranking him 81st in 2018.

On 20 July 2018, Howard was conferred an honorary Doctor of Arts degree by the University of Kent in recognition of his "inspirational life and outstanding contribution to hospitality and food."

Personal life

In 1995, Howard underwent drug rehabilitation twice following a three-year struggle with addiction to predominantly crack cocaine, which he initially used as a way to manage the intense demands of his role at The Square. Since completing treatment, he has maintained sobriety, avoiding both drugs and alcohol. His recovery journey included attending Narcotics Anonymous meetings, engaging in regular physical activity, and competing in various marathons and triathlons. Tragically, nine months after Phil’s successful recovery, his brother Greg passed away in 1996 due to a drug overdose.

Howard's marital history includes marrying Jennie in the early 1990s, divorcing in 1997, and then remarrying her in 1999. Together they have two children and have resided in Barnes, London since approximately 1999.

Bibliography

• Reviews of books written for Caterer and Hotelkeeper (currently known as The Caterer)
  • Reflections on Culinary Artistry by Pierre Gagnaire (10 June 2004)
  • The River Cottage Meat Book by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall (13 September 2004)
  • Essence: Recipes from Le Champignon Sauvage by David Everitt-Matthias (20 October 2006)
• The Square: The Cookbook (Volume 1: Savoury), published 2012 ()
• The Square: The Cookbook (Volume 2: Sweet), published 2013 ()

References

General

Notes