Pierre Wertheimer
Pierre Wertheimer | |
|---|---|
| Born | January 8, 1888 Paris, France |
| Died | April 24, 1965 (aged 77) Paris, France |
| Occupation | Entrepreneur |
| Known for | Co-establishing Chanel |
Pierre Wertheimer (8 January 1888 – 24 April 1965) was a notable French entrepreneur who co-established Chanel alongside Coco Chanel.
Early life
Pierre was born in Paris as the younger of two sons to Ernest and Mathilde Wertheimer. His father had relocated from Alsace to Paris in 1870.
Family business
Ernest Wertheimer invested in the theatrical cosmetics firm Bourjois, recognized for introducing the first dry rouge. By 1920, Bourjois had become France’s leading cosmetics and fragrance manufacturer with a global presence, including a plant in Rochester, New York that produced and distributed the Helena Rubinstein skincare products. In 1917, Pierre and his brother Paul took over management of Bourjois, preserving it as a family-run company.
"Parfums Chanel"
In 1924, Coco Chanel joined forces with the Wertheimers to establish "Parfums Chanel," with the goal of broadening the reach of her fragrance Chanel No. 5 beyond an elite customer base. Chanel recognized the Wertheimers’ business acumen, financial backing, and experience in the American market, which led her to enter into this commercial partnership. Théophile Bader, founder of Paris’s Galeries Lafayette, introduced Pierre Wertheimer to Chanel at the 1922 Longchamp races and played a key role in debuting Chanel No. 5 at his department store.
The Wertheimers obtained a 70% ownership by funding production, marketing, and distribution efforts; Bader held 20%, while Chanel retained a 10% stake, licensing her name but surrendering operational control. Unhappy with this setup, Chanel spent more than twenty years trying to regain full ownership of "Parfums Chanel," including filing an unsuccessful lawsuit against the Wertheimers in 1935.
Nazi and Vichy anti-Jewish legislation and property seizures in France
During World War II, Nazi regulations resulted in confiscation of Jewish-owned assets, which allowed Chanel to attempt to gain complete control of "Parfums Chanel" and its signature fragrance, Chanel No. 5. The Jewish Wertheimer family had initially partnered with Chanel but fled to the United States in 1940. Utilizing her status as an "Aryan," Chanel petitioned German authorities in 1941 to claim exclusive ownership under Nazi "aryanization" policies. However, anticipating such risks, the Wertheimers transferred control of "Parfums Chanel" to French industrialist Félix Amiot before escaping. After the war ended, Amiot returned control to the Wertheimer family.
Private
In October 1910, Pierre Wertheimer wed Germaine Revel (1888-1975), who came from the Lazard banking dynasty. They had one son:
- Jacques Guy Wertheimer (1911-1996), father to Alain and Gérard Wertheimer.
Pierre Wertheimer passed away on 24 April 1965 in Paris at age 77.
Thoroughbred horse racing
Pierre Wertheimer was a distinguished racehorse owner, appointing Alec Head at age 24 as his trainer in 1949. The collaboration between the Wertheimer family and Head continues through descendants like Freddy Head, who trained Goldikova, a three-time Breeders' Cup Mile champion. The Wertheimer stable achieved numerous significant victories across France and the United Kingdom, including owning Épinard, celebrated as a racing icon by France Galop.
Selected Group One race victories:
- 1000 Guineas (1935)
- King George VI and Queen Elizabeth Stakes: Vimy (1955)
- Epsom Derby: Lavandin (1956)
- Prix de la Forêt: Épinard (1922), Midget (1956)
- Prix d'Astarté: Eleda (1934), Djanet (1956)
- Prix Maurice de Gheest: Sonny Boy (1933), Djanet (1956), Midget (1957), Tomahawk (1959)
Following Pierre's death, his widow Germaine continued managing premier horses such as Riverman and Lyphard, securing Group One titles including:
- Prix de la Forêt: Démocratie (1969), Lyphard (1972)
- Prix du Jockey Club: Roi Lear (1973)
- Poule d'Essai des Poulains and Prix d'Ispahan: Riverman (1972)
- Prix Jacques Le Marois: Lyphard (1972)
The stewardship of both the racing stable and House of Chanel was passed on to their son Jacques Wertheimer, who further developed both ventures. After Jacques’ death, leadership transitioned to his sons Gérard and Alain Wertheimer.