Rob Slater
Robert John Slater | |
|---|---|
| Born | Template:Birth date |
| Died | August 13, 1995 (aged 34) |
| Occupation(s) | Climber, trader |
| Known for | Pioneering big wall routes on El Capitan, first solo ascent of Pacific Ocean Wall, climbing all Fisher Towers |
Robert John Slater (December 6, 1960 – August 13, 1995) was a prominent American climber best known for pioneering the big wall route Wyoming Sheep Ranch on El Capitan. Alongside his passion for climbing, Slater maintained a professional life as a trader at both the Chicago Board of Trade and Goldman Sachs. His life tragically ended during his descent from the summit of K2 in 1995.
Climbing background
Slater’s climbing journey started at a young age; he reached the summit of the Grand Teton at just 13 years old, guided by mountaineering legend Paul Petzoldt. He completed his high school education in Cheyenne, Wyoming and pursued higher studies at the University of Colorado at Boulder, selected partly for its close access to the Flatirons. Among his notable ascents was Wide Country (11a R) in Eldorado Canyon, a route that remains challenging even with contemporary gear.
During his university years, Slater frequently spent summers in Yosemite Valley, where he climbed his initial big wall routes, including Zodiac alongside Tom Cosgriff and Aquarian Wall with Robert Kayen. In his third year, he acquired BASE jumping skills from Randy Leavitt. However, an attempted jump in the Black Canyon resulted in a foot injury that impeded their intended canyon exit by climbing.
In 1982, Slater achieved the first solo ascent of Pacific Ocean Wall, which was among El Capitan’s most demanding routes at that time, concluding with a BASE jump. Two years later, he partnered with John Barbella to establish Wyoming Sheep Ranch (A5), regarded for years as El Capitan’s toughest aid climb before being reclassified as A4.
Slater is believed to have been a pioneer in experiencing a leash-secured fall on a high slackline. In 1983, together with Scott Balcom and others, he rigged an 80-foot-high slackline spanning 22 feet beneath a freeway overpass in Pasadena.
Between 1992 and 1993, Slater became the first climber to summit all the towers within the Fisher Towers near Moab, Utah, playing a key role in popularizing the desert climbing practice of completing every tower in a region.
In 1995, after four attempts, he successfully climbed the 3,000-foot ice waterfall route Slipstream located in the Canadian Rockies.
Last ascent
Slater lost his life during a storm while descending from K2, alongside five fellow climbers, among them the British mountaineer Alison Hargreaves. This expedition marked his initial attempt at an eight-thousander. His remains were never found.