Sean Thackrey
Sean Thackrey | |
|---|---|
| Born | Template:Birth date Los Angeles, California, U.S. |
| Died | May 30, 2022 (aged 79) Walnut Creek, California, U.S. |
| Occupation | Winemaker |
| Years active | 1981–2022 |
| Known for | Advancing California Syrah, innovative winemaking methods |
Sean Haley Thackrey (July 9, 1942 – May 30, 2022) was a winemaker from the United States who operated out of Bolinas in Marin County, California. Prior to his career in viticulture, he managed an art gallery.[1][2][3] Thackrey gained recognition for his innovative methods and his role as a trailblazer in advancing California Syrah.[4][5]
Early life
Born on July 9, 1942, in Los Angeles,[6] Sean Thackrey was the son of Eugene, who worked as a journalist and playwright, and Winfrid "Kay" Knudtson, a script supervisor in Hollywood.[7][8] His academic journey began at Reed College in 1959 where he studied art history. During his sophomore year, he attended the University of Vienna, briefly returned to Reed, but left the institution in 1962.[8]
In 1964, Thackrey moved to Bolinas,[8] where he briefly held a position as a book editor with the Sierra Club.[7] By 1970, he co-established the San Francisco art gallery Thackrey & Robertson alongside Susan Thackrey, Cynthia Pritzker, and later watercolor artist Sally Robertson. This gallery focused on early photographic works and remained active until its closure in 1995.Cite error: The opening <ref> tag is malformed or has a bad nameCite error: The opening <ref> tag is malformed or has a bad name
Career
After spending several years residing in Berkeley and San Francisco, Thackrey returned to Bolinas in 1977. He initially experimented with winemaking using Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon grapes and officially became a licensed winemaker in 1981 under the Thackrey & Co. label.[5] Early challenges with Lactobacillus infections led him to pursue extension courses at the University of California, Davis College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences, although he maintained a degree of skepticism toward formal scientific methods.[5]
His grape sources included vineyards located in Napa Valley, Marin County, and Mendocino,[5][9] where he often employed the unusual practice of allowing harvested grapes to 'rest' outdoors for no less than 24 hours prior to fermentation.[1] This technique traces back to ancient references such as Hesiod's Works and Days (circa 700 B.C.) and was historically common worldwide until around the mid-19th century.[5]
Wines
Thackrey's inaugural vintage appeared in 1981 as a blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon named Aquila,[10] with an initial production volume of .[11]
His signature wine, Orion (Sean Thackrey Orion Rossi Vineyard St. Helena California Native Red Wine), was crafted from 1986 through 1990 utilizing Syrah grapes sourced from Arthur Schmidt’s old-vine vineyard near Yountville, California before ownership transferred to Clarke Swanson.[10] From 1992 onward, Orion has been produced using grapes from the Rossi vineyard located in St. Helena, established in 1905. The precise varietals comprising this field blend remain unidentified due to inconclusive analyses conducted by UC Davis researchers.[5]
First introduced in 1992, The Pleiades (Sean Thackrey Pleiades California Red Table Wine) represents an experimental nonvintage assemblage consisting of multiple grape varieties—potentially including Barbera, Carignan, Syrah, Pinot noir, Zinfandel, Mourvèdre, and Grenache—harvested from diverse locations and vintages.[10] The composition changes yearly based on Thackrey’s creative judgment and the availability of fruit.[5][9][12] He described this blend as akin to "a chef’s special," emphasizing trust in his artistic decisions.[10]
Andromeda marked his first commercial offering of Pinot noir,[13] exclusively produced from grapes grown in Marin County.[14]
Additional wines include Taurus Cline Vineyard Mourvèdre; Sirius Eaglepoint Ranch Mendocino County Petite Sirah; and Aquila Eaglepoint Ranch Mendocino County Sangiovese. Annual output averaged approximately .[15]
Recognition and Influence
Although Thackrey maintained a relatively specialized reputation, he regularly received outstanding evaluations from prominent critics such as Robert Parker.[2][5][11] Without engaging in formal advertising, the demand for his limited-edition wines consistently surpassed the available supply.[5][15]
Thackrey frequently questioned traditional perspectives, minimizing the role of terroir as the exclusive determinant of exceptional wine quality: "I’m not denying that terroir exists; however, numerous other factors are involved." [12] He regarded AVAs and appellations primarily as promotional tools,[5] and controversially labeled France’s AOCs as a form of "viticultural racism".[12] Taking a neutral stance on terroir and the effects of global warming, he stressed the importance of flexibility in cooler climates, highlighting that regions like Carneros were once considered unsuitable for vine cultivation.[13]
Advocating for both creative and scientific innovation, Thackrey prioritized practical outcomes over theoretical concepts: "I am uninterested in my ideas until I have tested them and seen them succeed."[16]
His website housed "The Thackrey Library," an extensive repository of early winemaking manuscripts dating back to a sixth-century Greek papyrus documenting grapevine transactions.[9]Cite error: The opening <ref> tag is malformed or has a bad name This archive demonstrated his profound dedication to the historical study of wine.
Thackrey's presence extended into various media, including the 2007 California edition of Oz and James's Big Wine Adventure, the documentary titled Sean Thackrey: Pleasure Architect,[9]Cite error: The opening <ref> tag is malformed or has a bad name and a 2022 interview on the Barfly Podcast.[16]
Fire at Vallejo Warehouse
On October 12, 2005, an arson attack ignited a repurposed military bunker warehouse located at Mare Island near Vallejo, California, resulting in the destruction of nearly 4,000 cases of Thackrey’s wine. Initially estimating damages up to $2 million, Thackrey remarked on the severe consequences for his enterprise, indicating that only enough wine remained for personal consumption. Around 500 cases were subsequently salvaged. The blaze obliterated approximately six million bottles belonging to 43 collectors and 92 wineries from Napa Valley, many of whom lost their entire inventory.
Personal Details
Thackrey shared a domestic partnership with Susan Thackrey until his passing from cancer in Walnut Creek on May 30, 2022.
See also
External links
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