Sonia Rykiel
Sonia Rykiel | |
|---|---|
| Born | Template:Birth date Neuilly-sur-Seine, France |
| Died | August 25, 2016 (aged 86) |
| Occupation(s) | Fashion designer, author |
| Known for | Inventing the Poor Boy Sweater, "Queen of Knits" |
Sonia Rykiel (; 25 May 1930 – 25 August 2016) was a celebrated French fashion designer and author, best known for inventing the Poor Boy Sweater, which gained prominence after appearing on the cover of French Elle magazine. Her groundbreaking work in knitwear earned her the nickname "Queen of Knits." The Sonia Rykiel brand, founded in 1968 with the launch of her inaugural boutique, expanded its offerings to include apparel, accessories, and fragrances. Rykiel also ventured into writing, releasing her first book in 1979. She publicly revealed her Parkinson's diagnosis in 2012 and passed away due to complications related to the disease in 2016.
Early and personal life
Sonia Flis was born in Neuilly-sur-Seine to Jewish parents—her mother hailed from Poland while her father was a Romanian watchmaker—and she was the eldest among five sisters. At the age of 17, she began her career designing window displays for Grande Maison de Blanc, a Parisian textile shop.
In 1953, she married Sam Rykiel, proprietor of Laura, a boutique known for refined clothing. Together they had two children, Nathalie and Jean-Philippe Rykiel, before their divorce in 1968.
Rykiel often donned pieces from her own collections, favoring colors such as dark green, brown, navy blue, and black. She described her wardrobe choices as utilitarian: "I hate wasting time getting dressed... When I'm tired I like to dress very simply." Her distinctive look was further defined by a red bob haircut with thick bangs.
In 2009, she added her name to a petition supporting film director Roman Polanski following his arrest over decades-old allegations.
Early beginnings
Facing a lack of maternity options in 1962, Rykiel partnered with an Italian fabric supplier to design a dress and sweater characterized by high armholes and a snug fit. This garment, later known as the Poor Boy Sweater, gained traction through orders from acquaintances and exposure in French Elle. Actress Audrey Hepburn notably acquired several sweaters in multiple hues.
Sonia Rykiel
With assistance from her husband, the Sonia Rykiel Company was founded in 1965. Three years later, she inaugurated her first store on Paris’s Left Bank. She introduced innovative fashion elements including visible seams, raw hems, and sweaters emblazoned with slogans, while also popularizing black clothing. In 1972, Women's Wear Daily honored her with the title "Queen of Knits." She expanded into mail-order retail through a partnership with 3 Suisses in 1977 and launched her initial fragrance, Septième sens, in 1978.
By the early 1990s, Sonia Rykiel had evolved into a $75 million enterprise encompassing women's apparel, menswear, children's clothing, accessories, and perfumes distributed via 250 retailers across 40 countries.
Nathalie Rykiel assumed the role of company president in 2007. The brand marked its 40th anniversary in 2008 with accolades from designers such as Ralph Lauren and Giorgio Armani. A year later, Sonia Rykiel collaborated with H&M on two masstige collections presented at Paris’s Grand Palais.
In January 2012, First Heritage Brands from Hong Kong acquired an 80% controlling interest in Sonia Rykiel; the Rykiel family retained a 20% stake along with ownership of company real estate. That same year saw Canadian designer Geraldo da Conceição appointed as artistic director; he was succeeded by Julie de Libran in 2013.
In 2016, Nathalie Rykiel divested the remaining family shares to First Heritage Brands and stepped down from the board. Subsequently, the company underwent restructuring by discontinuing the diffusion line Sonia by Sonia Rykiel, integrating more affordable products into the main collection, and implementing staff reductions.
Prominent photographers who have shot advertising campaigns for Sonia Rykiel include Dominique Issermann (1979–1993), Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott (2013), Craig McDean (2014), Juergen Teller (2015), and Glen Luchford (2016).
Following years of poor management under First Heritage Brands’ ownership, Sonia Rykiel ceased operations through liquidation in mid-2019 after a proposed sale was declined. Later that year, brothers Eric and Michael Dayan purchased the brand for around €10 million.
Literary work
In addition to her fashion career, Rykiel was a prolific writer, authoring numerous books on fashion, children's literature, magazine articles, and an epistolary novel co-written with Régine Deforges. Her debut publication, Et Je La Voudrais Nue (I Would Like Her Naked), was released in 1979. Later, in 2012, she collaborated with journalist Judith Perrignon on the book N'oubliez pas que je joue (Don't forget it's a game).
Interior decoration
Rykiel played a role in designing the interiors of several renowned Parisian hotels, notably the Hôtel de Crillon in 1985 and the Hôtel Lutetia.
Film and music
She partnered with impresario Malcolm McLaren on the 1995 track "Who the Hell is Sonia Rykiel?" featured on his album Paris. Rykiel also made a brief appearance in Robert Altman's 1994 film Prêt-à-Porter, which drew inspiration from her ready-to-wear collections; the film’s protagonist was modeled after her. Furthermore, she portrayed Hortense in the 1998 French comedy Riches, belles, etc..
Costume creation
In 2000, Rykiel designed costumes for the French musical comedy Les Dix Commandements.
Passing
Rykiel passed away at her residence in Paris on 25 August 2016 at the age of 86, due to complications related to Parkinson's disease. She had publicly revealed in 2012 that she had been contending with the illness for fifteen years. Her legacy continues through her children Nathalie and Jean-Philippe Rykiel. President François Hollande described her as "a pioneer," while Jean-Marc Loubier remarked that she left behind "an extraordinary legacy."
Exhibitions
An exhibition dedicated to the Sonia Rykiel brand was held at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Paris from 20 November 2008 until 20 April 2009, curated by Olivier Saillard.
Distinctions
- Fashion Group International of New York Oscar (1986)
- Officer of the Ordre des Arts et des Lettres (1993)
- Chicago Historical Society's Costume Committee Award for Design Excellence (1994)
- Officer of l'Ordre National de la Légion d'Honneur (1996)
- Trophée Whirlpool des Femmes Gold entrepreneurial award (1997)
- Commander of the National Order of Merit (2001)
- Woman of the Year by Association des Amis du Musée de Tel-Aviv (2002)
- Elevated to Commander of l'ordre national de la Légion d'Honneur (2008)
- Grande Médaille de Vermeil de la Ville de Paris
- Promoted to Commander of the Ordre des Arts et des Lettres (2012)
- Advanced to Grand Officer of the National Order of Merit (2013)
- A street in Paris was named in her honor in September 2018