The Checkers (restaurant)
| Company type | Private |
|---|---|
| Industry | Hospitality |
| Founded | 17th century |
| Headquarters | Montgomery , Wales, United Kingdom |
| Products | Restaurant, lodging |
Number of employees | 12 |
| Website | www |
The Checkers is a combined restaurant and lodging establishment situated on Broad Street in Montgomery, Wales, close to Montgomery Castle. The structure dates back to the 17th century and originally functioned as a coaching inn and pub/hotel before being transformed into a French dining venue in 2012. Under the leadership of chef Stephane Borie, it was awarded a Michelin star in the same year. The property houses two principal dining areas along with three en-suite guest rooms.
Specializing in both contemporary and traditional French dishes, The Checkers switched exclusively to set menus in 2016. Two years later, in 2018, it shifted away from its Michelin-starred fine dining approach to launch Checkers Pantry, focusing solely on breakfast and lunch services. The restaurant can welcome up to 40 patrons and employs a team of 12 staff members.
The interior design features exposed low timber beams, an open brick fireplace flanked by Laura Ashley sofas, and chestnut flooring sourced from the Francis family’s farm. Separate bar/lounge and dining spaces support its dual role as both a boutique hotel and restaurant.
Menu
The menu emphasizes seasonal offerings crafted from locally sourced ingredients from Powys and Shropshire, blending traditional and modern French cuisine. Notable dishes include a pork belly entrée sourced from the Neuadd Fach baconry nearby, served alongside apple mousseline, pear, and au jus. Another highlight is the monkfish dish paired with langoustine consommé and Brussels sprout purée. Additional options feature classic French onion soup, cheese soufflé, and desserts such as a nougat-filled tube with white chocolate and passion fruit mousse, plus a selection of three lemon pots.
In early 2016, the establishment adopted an exclusive set menu format to minimize food waste, targeting a 50% reduction. The children's menu offers smaller-sized portions of the main courses.
History
Originally constructed in the 17th century, the building served as a coaching inn. Historical documentation dates back to 1855 when it hosted events like Rebecca Davies' annual ball. By 1870, management was under Charles Williams. In the early 2000s, it operated as a pub and hotel managed by Eric Whittingham.
Stephane Borie, the head chef, underwent seven years of training under Michel Roux at the three Michelin star Waterside Inn in Bray, Berkshire, where he met pastry chef Sarah Francis. In 2008, Borie and Francis took charge of the Herbert Arms near Montgomery with Sarah’s sister Kathryn overseeing front-of-house operations. The trio assumed control of The Checkers in March 2011, renovating it from its previous pub format into a restaurant while maintaining their existing clientele.
Within seven months of opening, The Checkers earned a Michelin star in 2012. Following this achievement, Borie expanded his kitchen team from three to six members.
In 2018, the proprietors voluntarily surrendered their Michelin star and relaunched as Checkers Pantry in November, offering breakfast and lunch only while discontinuing evening service.
Reception
Shortly after receiving its Michelin star, Neil Thomas awarded the restaurant a perfect five-star rating, praising starters such as Cerwyn cheese soufflé and pheasant pithiviers alongside main courses including roast duck, pork belly, and venison. Around the same period, Sally Williams from the Western Mail lauded the soufflé and described the ambiance as "comfortable" with a homely feel. In 2013, it was ranked second-best in Wales on the Sunday Times list of the UK’s top 100 restaurants, trailing only The Walnut Tree in Abergavenny.
In early 2014, Matthew Norman of The Daily Telegraph gave it three and a half stars. He commended dishes like the soufflé and French onion soup but found the monkfish lacking in flavor. His colleague described the pork belly as "superb." Norman characterized the establishment as a "slick operation" but suggested that some "character, vibrancy and fun" had been sacrificed to meet inspectorate expectations.