Tom Aikens (restaurant)
| Company type | Private |
|---|---|
| Industry | Restaurant |
| Founded | April 2003 |
| Founder | Tom Aikens, Laura Vanninen |
| Defunct | January 2014 |
| Fate | Closed |
| Headquarters | London , United Kingdom |
| Products | Fine dining cuisine |
Tom Aikens was a Michelin-starred fine dining establishment in London, managed by chef Tom Aikens from its launch in April 2003 until it ceased operations in January 2014. The venue was generally met with favorable reviews from critics.
Background
Tom Aikens became head chef at London’s Pied à Terre in May 1996 and later assumed the role of chef patron. He departed from the restaurant in December 1999 following a kitchen accident.[1] Subsequently, he briefly worked at La Tante Claire under Pierre Koffman and then served as a private chef for wealthy clients.[2]
History
In April 2003, Aikens launched his namesake restaurant with a 60-seat capacity located at 43 Elystan Street, Chelsea, on the site previously occupied by the Marlborough Arms pub. His then-wife and co-owner Laura Vanninen partnered in this venture.[3] By January 2004, the restaurant had been awarded four AA rosettes along with its inaugural Michelin star.[4]
A notable controversy occurred in October 2004 when businesswoman Sarah Roe was accused by Aikens of stealing a bespoke silver teaspoon following a £536 meal. Although the spoon was later recovered, Roe chose to boycott Aikens’s venues. This event followed several other incidents involving the theft of spoons valued at £16 each.[5]
The establishment earned its second Michelin star in January 2008.[6]
In October 2008, Aikens's companies T&L Ltd and Tom Aikens Ltd entered property administration due to financial difficulties. Subsequently, he sold this restaurant along with Tom's Kitchen to TA Holdco Ltd, resulting in numerous small suppliers remaining unpaid.[7]
In March 2011, Istanbul Doors Restaurant Group purchased Peter Dubens’s shareholding.[8]
The restaurant temporarily closed for refurbishment from July 2011 until reopening in January 2012. During this period, it lost its Michelin stars but regained one star by late 2012.[9] It permanently shut down in January 2014 and subsequently lost its Michelin star that same year.[10]
Menu
The menu reflected seasonal ingredients. In May 2003, selections included pig’s head prepared with spices and ginger, stuffed trotter and tongue accompanied by celeriac purée and crispy pork belly; a terrine of foie gras and artichoke paired with truffled celeriac remoulade; as well as poached chicken breast served alongside braised leg in a truffled macaroni artichoke sauce. By December 2003, dishes featured wild salmon cured with beetroot and orange served with beetroot leaves, caviar, and dill; confit rabbit with carrot and Sauternes jelly; roast turbot accompanied by celeriac fondant; pigeon steamed with thyme and chestnut velouté; cannelloni filled with tender lettuce; duck consommé variations; and snails encased in lettuce ravioli.
Chefs
Throughout the restaurant’s existence, Tom Aikens held the position of chef patron. Aiden Byrne acted as head chef from 2003 until 2005 before departing for Danesfield House Hotel and Spa. Julien Maisonneuve served as head chef between 2008 and 2011 during one phase of Tom's Kitchen and subsequently at the eponymous restaurant.
Reception
In May 2003, food critic Matthew Fort awarded the restaurant an 18.5 out of 20 rating, describing it as "comfortable and smart," highlighting Aikens's emphasis on subtler flavors and softer textures compared to his work at Pied à Terre. Conversely, critic A. A. Gill gave it three out of five stars in June 2003, characterizing the cuisine as "well cooked but wearisomely refined and fussy."
The venue received the BMW Square Meal Award for Best New Restaurant in autumn 2003. Early in 2005, it earned three stars from Egon Ronay's Guide. In April 2005, Restaurant ranked it eighth among the world’s top fifty restaurants.
The Times critic Giles Coren scored the restaurant 7.56 out of ten in June 2003, praising culinary skill and control while rating atmosphere less favorably. He also noted appreciation for being served madeleines after a substantial meal. In March 2008, Coren gave an overall score of 7.33, commending a scallop dish but criticizing an artichoke starter and observing an imbalance within the four-course meal.
Among the top hundred restaurants in Britain, The Times placed it at number 58 with a score of 9.09 in October 2010, improving to number 39 with a score of 9.44 by November 2013.
See also
References
External links
- Marlborough Arms featured on The Lost Pubs Project