Tom Ford
Tom Ford | |
|---|---|
| Born | August 27, 1961 Austin, Texas, U.S. |
| Occupation(s) | Fashion designer, filmmaker |
| Years active | 1988–present |
| Known for | Creative director at Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent; founder of Tom Ford brand; director of A Single Man and Nocturnal Animals |
Thomas Carlyle Ford (born August 27, 1961) is a prominent American fashion designer and filmmaker. He established his namesake label in 2005, following his tenure as creative director at both Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent. Ford also wrote and directed the films A Single Man (2009) and Nocturnal Animals (2016). Between 2019 and 2022, he held the position of chairman for the Council of Fashion Designers of America.
Early life
Ford was born in Austin, Texas to Shirley Burton and Thomas David Ford (1932–2020), who were both real estate agents. His childhood was spent in the suburbs of Houston and San Marcos before his family moved to Santa Fe, New Mexico when he was 11 years old. He attended St. Michael's High School as well as Santa Fe Preparatory School.
At age 16, Ford briefly enrolled at Bard College at Simon's Rock, then relocated to New York City to pursue art history studies at New York University. After one year, he left university to focus on an acting career. Subsequently, he studied interior architecture at Parsons The New School for Design, where he developed a keen interest in fashion. Ford also spent over a year in Paris working as an intern in the press department of Chloé, which played a significant role in shaping his future path in fashion. He ultimately earned an architecture degree from The New School, concentrating on fashion during his final academic year.
Early career
Following graduation, Ford chose not to disclose his architectural background from Parsons and minimized his modest public relations experience at Chloé. Despite having limited exposure to fashion design, he persistently reached out to American designer Cathy Hardwick, who eventually brought him on board as a design assistant for two years.
In 1988, Ford joined Perry Ellis, where he was acquainted with company president Robert McDonald and designer Marc Jacobs. After two years there, he became disenchanted with the American fashion industry, remarking in The New York Times that American style was often perceived as less sophisticated compared to European standards.
By 1990, the Italian fashion house Gucci was experiencing financial difficulties and aimed to revitalize its women's ready-to-wear collection. Creative director Dawn Mello recruited Ford as chief designer for women's ready-to-wear, leading him to move to Milan. Mello recalled that few designers were willing to accept the challenging role at a brand that was "far from being a brand." That September, Ford and his partner Richard Buckley relocated to Italy.
Ford rapidly broadened his responsibilities at Gucci, taking on menswear design within six months and adding footwear design shortly thereafter. When design director Richard Lambertson departed in 1992, Ford stepped into that role, overseeing multiple areas including ready-to-wear collections, fragrances, brand image, advertising campaigns, and store interiors. By 1993, managing eleven different product lines required him to work eighteen-hour days. Creative disagreements emerged between Ford and chairman Maurizio Gucci—Mello noted that Maurizio preferred "round and brown" aesthetics while Ford favored "square and black." Although Maurizio considered terminating Ford’s contract, Domenico De Sole intervened to retain him. During this time frame, Ford’s contributions were largely behind the scenes and often overshadowed publicly by Mello’s presence.
Creative Director Roles at Gucci and Saint Laurent
In 1994, Ford ascended to the position of Creative Director at Gucci. During his inaugural year, he introduced designs reminiscent of Halston with velvet hipsters, paired with slim satin shirts and shiny patent leather boots. In 1995, he enlisted French stylist Carine Roitfeld and photographer Mario Testino to overhaul Gucci’s advertising efforts. Between 1995 and 1996, the brand experienced a 90% surge in sales. Ford also became the largest individual holder of Gucci shares and options. By 1999, the company, which had been close to bankruptcy when Ford joined, was valued at over $4 billion.
Following Gucci’s acquisition of Yves Saint Laurent (YSL) in 1999, Ford was appointed Creative Director for that label as well. Although YSL’s founder expressed dissatisfaction with Ford’s design approach, Ford earned several Council of Fashion Designers of America Awards and successfully rejuvenated the brand. His bold advertising campaigns for YSL fragrances such as Opium and M7 stirred controversy but significantly increased the brand’s market presence.
Ford departed from the Gucci group in April 2004 due to conflicts with Pinault Printemps Redoute’s management regarding company control. He described this as a "devastating" midlife crisis after dedicating fifteen years to the brand. At his exit, the Gucci Group was valued at $10 billion, with his duties divided among four successors.
The Tom Ford Brand
Upon leaving Gucci, Ford launched his own namesake line in 2006 encompassing menswear, beauty products, eyewear, and accessories, with De Sole serving as chairman. Ford characterized the Tom Ford clientele as worldly, sophisticated, and wealthy, focusing on "strong women" possessing a distinctive sense of style.
Among his notable clients is Michelle Obama, who donned a Ford gown at Buckingham Palace in 2011. Ford has also styled numerous celebrities including Beyoncé, Jennifer Lopez, Gwyneth Paltrow, Anne Hathaway, Daniel Craig, Tom Hanks, and Johnny Depp. He designed Daniel Craig’s suits for four James Bond movies spanning from 2008 to 2021.
In 2013, Ford was referenced in Justin Timberlake’s track "Suit & Tie", featuring Jay-Z. He created over 600 garments for Timberlake’s 20/20 Experience World Tour. That same year, Jay-Z released the song "Tom Ford," which amplified the designer’s visibility and online search volume dramatically; the single achieved platinum status.
In November 2022, Estée Lauder purchased the Tom Ford brand for $2.8 billion. Forbes estimated that Ford earned approximately $1.1 billion from this transaction. By April 2023, Ford stepped down as creative director, with Peter Hawkings succeeding him.
Controversies
Ford has encountered criticism over his use of nudity in advertising campaigns, with some journalists condemning certain ads as vulgar, sexist, or objectifying women. Examples include an image featuring a nude woman holding a perfume bottle and another depicting a naked woman ironing a man's trousers. One such advertisement was prohibited in Italy.
Addressing these critiques, Ford described himself as an "equal opportunity objectifier," emphasizing that he is "just as happy to objectify men." He highlighted cultural double standards concerning male nudity by referencing a male nude ad from his Yves Saint Laurent period that was withdrawn.
In 2014, Ford introduced the "Penis Pendant Necklace," which provoked backlash from Christian groups who found its design offensive due to its resemblance to a cross. Ford clarified that the pendant symbolized a phallus rather than any religious iconography.
In 2022, Ford publicly condemned the Met Gala, stating it had "turned into a costume party."
A Single Man
In March 2005, Ford established his own production company, Fade to Black. He made his first foray into directing in 2009 with A Single Man, a film adaptation of Christopher Isherwood's novel. The drama features Colin Firth portraying a gay college professor living in Los Angeles, supported by performances from Julianne Moore, Nicholas Hoult, and Matthew Goode. Ford collaborated with David Scearce on the screenplay and took on a producer role.
The film debuted at the 66th Venice International Film Festival where it competed for the Golden Lion. Colin Firth received the Volpi Cup for Best Actor and was honored with several awards, including the BAFTA Award for Best Actor in a Leading Role, alongside nominations for an Academy Award, Golden Globe, Independent Spirit Award, and Screen Actors Guild Award. Additionally, the movie was recognized as an AFI Film of the Year and won the GLAAD Media Award for Outstanding Film – Wide Release.
Further acclaim came with Julianne Moore earning a Golden Globe nomination for Best Supporting Actress and Abel Korzeniowski being nominated for Best Original Score. The Independent Spirit Awards acknowledged the film with nominations for Best First Feature and Best First Screenplay. At the Broadcast Film Critics Association Awards, Ford and Scearce were also nominated for Best Adapted Screenplay.
Nocturnal Animals
Ford directed Nocturnal Animals in 2015, adapting Austin Wright's novel Tony and Susan. Released in 2016, the cast includes Jake Gyllenhaal and Amy Adams, with notable supporting roles by Michael Shannon, Armie Hammer, Aaron Taylor-Johnson, and Isla Fisher.
The film received the Grand Jury Prize at the Venice Film Festival and holds a 72% rating on Rotten Tomatoes based on 143 critical reviews. Reviewers lauded its acting performances and visual composition, emphasizing Ford's unique storytelling approach.
Personal life
Ford is openly gay and wed journalist Richard Buckley—former editor-in-chief of Vogue Hommes International—in 2014 after being partners since 1986. They have a son born in September 2012 via gestational surrogacy. Their residences have included Italy, London (where they lived for 17 years), as well as homes in New York, Los Angeles, and Santa Fe. The couple has owned smooth fox terriers that appeared both on fashion runways and in Ford’s film A Single Man. Ford also has two nephews and one niece through his sister Jennifer.
He owns Cerro Pelon Ranch, a private estate spanning 24,000 acres near Santa Fe, designed by architect Tadao Ando with additional buildings by Marmol Radziner. The ranch contains a fictional town constructed specifically as a filming site for Western movies.
After viewing the documentary What the Health, Ford adopted a vegan lifestyle. He has abstained from alcohol since 2019 and openly uses cosmetic fillers and Botox treatments. Ford has credited late artist Ian Falconer—creator of the Olivia the Pig series—as his first romantic partner; they maintained a friendship until Falconer's passing in 2023. The protagonist in Ford’s film A Single Man was named in Falconer’s honor.
Richard Buckley passed away on September 19, 2021, following a prolonged illness.
In 2024, Ford acquired an £80 million ($104 million) mansion located in Chelsea, London—marking the highest-priced residential property transaction in the UK that year. His real estate holdings surpass $300 million in value and include prestigious properties such as the Hamptons estate formerly owned by Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, as well as a mansion in Palm Beach.
Politics
Ford identifies as a Democrat and publicly opposed the 2003 Iraq invasion, expressing feelings of being "ashamed to be an American," a viewpoint that attracted criticism. He organized a fundraising event for Barack Obama and cast his vote for Hillary Clinton in the 2016 US presidential race.
He supports the federal legalization of same-sex marriage but prefers using "civil partnership" to describe unions for all couples, reserving "marriage" for religious contexts.
Ford adheres to a principle of not designing clothing for politicians from any party, emphasizing that presidential wardrobes should be affordable and domestically produced, which contrasts with his own preference for luxury Italian-made garments.
He has voiced disapproval of the prevailing "political correctness" and cancel culture, arguing these trends stifle creativity within fashion by enforcing strict guidelines and discouraging cultural expression.
Public image and legacy
Ford has consistently appeared on numerous best-dressed compilations, such as the International Best Dressed List, The Guardian’s "The 50 best-dressed over-50s," and British GQ’s "50 Best Dressed Men in Britain 2015." In 2011, he graced the cover of Another Man’s spring/summer issue, where he shared insights about contemporary masculinity. Celebrated as both a "fashion icon" and "style icon," Ford was named among the "All-TIME 100 Fashion Icons." His honors include several VH1/Vogue Fashion Awards and distinctions from the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA), notably receiving the Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award in 2014.
Although engaged in a long-term monogamous partnership, Ford cultivated a youthful and sexually charged persona through his provocative designs and advertising campaigns. His aesthetic is characterized by a "sophisticated sex appeal," credited with revitalizing sensuality within brands like Gucci and Saint Laurent. His marketing often incorporated nudity and daring visuals, occasionally sparking controversy, frequently featuring celebrities and models. Ford has earned nicknames such as "King of Sex" and "the straightest gay man in the world."
Ford played a pivotal role in rescuing Gucci from financial decline, steering it into a dominant fashion force during his decade-long tenure as creative director—a period often referred to as Gucci's "golden era." He moved away from the brand’s previous "grunge style," introducing bold, sexy yet refined collections. According to New York Magazine, Ford consistently produced an 'It' item each season that set trends and inspired widespread emulation. He stresses that designers must remain relevant by adapting to shifting beauty ideals.
In 2004, Ford authored a namesake monograph chronicling his early career and design contributions at Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent from 1990 to 2004. Later, in 2021, he published Tom Ford 002, which covers his professional journey from 2005 onward, including launching his own label and directing two films. Both editions were released by Rizzoli International Publications, co-written with fashion journalist Bridget Foley, featuring forewords by Anna Wintour.
In popular culture
In September 2013, hip-hop artist Jay-Z unveiled the track "Tom Ford" on his album Magna Carta Holy Grail. Ford embraced this homage, describing it as an uncommon acknowledgment of his influence on mainstream culture. The song earned a nomination for Best Rap Performance at the 56th Grammy Awards in 2014.
Swedish rapper Bladee mentioned Tom Ford on his 2018 mixtape Icedancer. Additionally, in Ridley Scott’s 2021 film House of Gucci, actor Reeve Carney portrayed Ford.
Awards and nominations
Tom Ford has received accolades from prominent design and cultural organizations around the globe, such as the Cooper Hewitt Design Museum and Time. Notable distinctions include:
- 1995: International Award – Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA)
- 1997: Featured in People Magazine's 50 Most Beautiful People
- 1999: Style Icon Award – Elle Style Awards UK
- 2000: Best International Designer – VH1/Vogue Awards; Award from the Fashion Editors Club of Japan; British GQ International Man of the Year; Superstar Award – Fashion Group International
- 2001: Womenswear Designer of the Year – CFDA; Best Fashion Designer – Time Magazine; Designer of the Year – GQ USA
- 2002: Accessory Designer of the Year for Yves Saint-Laurent – CFDA
- 2003: Fashion Design Achievement Award – Cooper-Hewitt Design Museum's National Design Awards
- 2004: Special Tribute from CFDA Board of Directors; Rodeo Drive Walk of Style Award; Inducted into International Best Dressed List Hall of Fame
- 2005: André Leon Talley Lifetime Achievement Award – Savannah College of Art & Design
- 2006: Launch of Accessory Brand – Accessories Council Excellence Awards
- 2007: Vito Russo Award at GLAAD Media Awards; Named Person of the Year by DNR
- 2008: Menswear Designer of the Year – CFDA
- 2009: Recipient of the Queer Lion at Venice Film Festival for A Single Man; also nominated for Golden Lion, Critics' Choice, and Independent Spirit Awards; Honored as one of GQ USA's Men of the Year and GQ Germany Man of the Year
- 2010: Outstanding Film Wide Release for A Single Man at GLAAD Media Awards; Nominee for CFDA Menswear Designer of the Year
- 2012: Included in All-TIME 100 Fashion Icons list
- 2013: Recognized among the top 50 best-dressed individuals over age 50 by The Guardian
- 2014: Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award – CFDA
- 2015: Menswear Designer of the Year – CFDA; Featured in British GQ’s list of 50 best-dressed men in Britain
- 2016: Grand Jury Prize at Venice Film Festival for Nocturnal Animals; Satellite Auteur Award
Filmography
| Year | Title | Director | Producer | Writer |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2009 | A Single Man | Yes | Yes | Yes |
| 2016 | Nocturnal Animals | Yes | Yes | Yes |
Acting role
| Year | Title | Role | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2001 | Zoolander | Tom Ford |
Bibliography
- Tom Ford, Thames & Hudson, 2004. Features a foreword by Anna Wintour, an introduction by Graydon Carter, along with interview and text by Bridget Foley.
- Umberto Mentana, Tom Ford. Percorsi di Moda e Cinema, dal Fashion Universe a Nocturnal Animals, NPE, 2020. Introduction authored by Tony Di Corcia.