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Troisgros family

From Alfawiki
Troisgros
Company typePrivate
IndustryRestaurant, hospitality
Founded1930 in Roanne, France
FounderJean-Baptiste Troisgros and Marie Troisgros
Headquarters
Ouches
,
France
Area served
France (Ouches, Roanne, Iguerande)
Key people
Michel Troisgros (current owner and manager)
ProductsFine dining restaurants, hotel accommodations

Troisgros () is a renowned French restaurant and hotel mainly situated in Ouches (Loire, France), with additional affiliated dining establishments located in Roanne and Iguerande, France.

The enterprise was established in 1930 by Jean-Baptiste Troisgros and his spouse Marie in Roanne. Leadership later passed to their sons Jean and Pierre starting in 1957, and it is presently managed by their grandson Michel, who owns the restaurant in Ouches. Since 1968, the establishment has consistently maintained three Michelin stars.

The accompanying five-star hotel has been a member of Relais & Châteaux since 1966.

Jean-Baptiste and Marie Troisgros

Jean-Baptiste Troisgros (1898–1974) and Marie Badaut (1900–1968), originally producers of lemonade from Burgundy, operated the located in Chalon-sur-Saône. They had three offspring: Jean (born 1926), Pierre (born 1928), and Madeleine (born 1935). In 1930, they relocated to Roanne, positioned at the intersection of Burgundy, the Rhône Valley, and Auvergne, where they took over the near the train station, which remained under lease for 86 years.

Without formal culinary training, their establishment focused on regional bourgeois cooking characterized by simplicity and authenticity, emphasizing ingredient quality without elaborate sauces or embellishments. Jean-Baptiste oversaw the dining area and wine cellar, prioritizing Burgundy wines that he favored. As its reputation grew, the restaurant was renamed in 1935.

Jean and Pierre were introduced early to French culinary arts, entering professional kitchens at age 15. Jean pursued training in Paris, while Pierre gained experience at the in Étretat and the Basque region; he also fulfilled military duties in Tunis in 1948.

After obtaining their CAP diplomas, both brothers worked at in Paris under chef Gaston Richard, where they developed a friendship with Paul Bocuse. Subsequently, they joined the esteemed La Pyramide in Vienne alongside Fernand Point and Paul Mercier. Short periods followed at Maxim's for Jean and Hôtel de Crillon for Pierre before returning to Roanne to support their father.

The Troisgros Brothers (Pierre and Jean)

In 1957, the Hôtel Moderne was rebranded as Les Frères Troisgros, with Pierre as head chef, Jean as chief saucier, and their father Jean-Baptiste serving as butler and sommelier who also welcomed guests. This period marked the beginning of their ascent within international gastronomy.

The Michelin Guide awarded them their initial star in 1955, a second star in 1965, and a distinguished third star in 1968. They received an 18/20 score from Gault Millau alongside four stars from the Bottin gourmand. In 1965, Jean Troisgros earned the title Meilleur Ouvrier de France. In 1966, Pierre managed Maxim's kitchen in Tokyo for five months.

Christian Millau proclaimed them "the best restaurant worldwide" in 1968. The restaurant expanded by acquiring adjacent premises in 1970 and added a large-scale kitchen facility in 1976.

During the 1980s, Pierre introduced a product line under the Troisgros brand through a partnership with Japan’s Odakyu department store, initially retailing at five outlets.

Jean Troisgros passed away suddenly from a heart attack on August 9, 1983. In recognition of his legacy, Roanne's train station plaza was renamed after him by former president François Mitterrand in 1987; it features Arman’s sculpture Les Gourmandes. Following this, Pierre took over operations alongside his wife Olympe and recalled Michel and Marie-Pierre from the United States to assist with management.

Jean Troisgros

Jean Troisgros was a family man with two children. His son Georges pursued a culinary career, working as a chef in New York City at establishments such as Lutèce and Le Relais.

Pierre Troisgros

Pierre Troisgros passed away on 23 September 2020 at the age of 92. He and his wife Olympe Forté (1928–2008), who had Italian roots, were parents to three children: Claude (born 1956), Michel (born 1958), and Anne-Marie (born 1964).

Claude manages the fine dining restaurant Olympe located in Rio de Janeiro, along with three bistros, including one in Miami Beach. His son Thomas has since assumed leadership of these ventures.

Anne-Marie, a graduate of the École hôtelière de Lausanne, co-managed Restaurant Gravelier in Bordeaux alongside her husband Yves Gravelier from 1993 until 2014.

Michel Troisgros

Born on 2 April 1958 in Roanne, Michel is the son of Pierre and Olympe Troisgros. He attended the from 1973 to 1976, where he met Marie-Pierre, who would become his wife. Together, they traveled internationally to hone their culinary skills at prestigious venues such as Alain Chapel in Mionnay, Frédy Girardet in Crissier, Taillevent in Paris, Michel Guérard in Eugénie-les-Bains, Comme chez Soi in Brussels, Chez Panisse in Berkeley, and The Connaught in London.

Marie-Pierre Troisgros

Marie-Pierre Lambert was born on 6 April 1957 in Sainte-Colombe. She studied at the from 1973 to 1976. Her professional experience spans Germany’s Black Forest region, Hilton Brussels, The Connaught London, Lapérouse Paris, Petrossian New York City, Michel Guérard’s establishment in Eugénie-les-Bains, and Switzerland. She married Michel in 1983 and they have three children: Marion (1983), César (1986), and Léo (1993).

César Troisgros

César was born on 5 November 1986 in Roanne. He trained at the Institut Paul Bocuse between 2004 and 2007 and apprenticed under renowned chefs such as Michel Rostang in Paris, the Roca brothers at El Celler de Can Roca in Girona, Thomas Keller in Napa Valley, and his uncle Claude Troisgros in Rio de Janeiro. Plans to work in Japan were postponed due to the Fukushima incident in 2011; he remained in Roanne to support family businesses during their relocation to Ouches. César is committed to environmental sustainability and biodiversity initiatives like those preserving local varieties such as the Auvergne bean. By 2023, he had risen to Chef de Cuisine at Le Bois sans feuilles, assuming full leadership.

Léo Troisgros

Léo was born on 26 February 1993 in Roanne. He studied at Institut Paul Bocuse from 2012 to 2015 and completed training with distinguished chefs including Guy Savoy in Paris, Benoît Violier in Crissier, Alexandre Gauthier at , and at Hotel Adlon Berlin. In 2017, he joined the opening team for the Ouches location before working at , where his partner Lisa Roche leads the kitchen brigade. After spending a year working in Japan beginning January 2018, Léo and Lisa took over management of La Colline du Colombier on 18 June 2020; by 2024 it became an independent restaurant.

Restaurants

Following Jean’s passing, Michel and Marie-Pierre collaborated with Pierre and Olympe for thirteen years until 1996, during which time they enhanced the establishment by adding a suspended garden and additional rooms. After Pierre and Olympe retired, Michel worked with architect Christian Liaigre to refurbish the space with a focus on comfort and sophistication. Michel introduced seasonal dishes influenced by Italy, Japan, and his travels abroad, moving away from classic dishes such as salmon escalope with sorrel. Due to limited space and future ambitions for their sons César and Léo, they relocated from Roanne train station on 1 January 2017. The new venue opened on 18 February within a serene property at Ouches, approximately eight kilometers west of Roanne.

  • Le Central Restaurant

Established by Michel and Marie-Pierre opposite Roanne train station in 1995, this café-restaurant-grocery offers a blend of straightforward elegance with precise home-style cooking—examples include onion and dried cep tart or Fourme cheese omelette—alongside international flavors like fish and chips with Indian sauce or sea bream ceviche. It also features specialty products such as judion beans popularized by Seville tapas bars. The restaurant celebrated its twentieth anniversary in 2015.

  • Le Koumir Restaurant

In 2001, Michel opened Koumir within a nineteenth-century mansion near Pushkin Square in Moscow. This endeavor lasted three years but ended due to difficulties sourcing high-quality ingredients.

  • La Table du Lancaster Restaurant

Michel launched this Parisian venue at the Lancaster Hotel in 2004. It earned a Michelin star by 2005 but closed its doors in 2014 following ownership transitions after ten years of operation.

  • Cuisine(s) Michel Troisgros Restaurant

Opened in September 2006 inside Tokyo’s Hyatt Regency Hotel, this restaurant received two Michelin stars by 2008. It served French cuisine inspired by Roanne with Asian influences while emphasizing seasonal local ingredients. The restaurant ceased operations in 2019.

  • La Colline du Colombier Restaurant

In June 2008, Marie-Pierre and Michel inaugurated this countryside retreat near Roanne at Iguerande in Saône-et-Loire. The €2.8 million project features warm interior design alongside two guest lodgings accommodating four people each and three elevated houses (cadoles) overlooking rural landscapes that reflect regional architectural heritage.

  • Le Bois sans feuilles Restaurant

Opened on 18 February 2017 at the base of the , this venue incorporates a glass-enclosed dining area set amidst woods, meadows, an orchard, and a pond. The farm buildings house reception spaces, cellars, and kitchen facilities; meanwhile the main house contains fifteen guest rooms. Key personnel include chef Benjamin Chmura and directors Patrice Laurent, Carole Quint, and Jean-Philippe Tacail. This location is featured prominently in the documentary Menus-Plaisirs – Les Troisgros.

Awards

  • 1968: Achieved the prestigious Michelin three-star rating
  • 1972: Honored as "World’s Best Restaurant" by Christian Millau of Gault Millau
  • 2003: Michel Troisgros received the title "Chef of the Year" from Gault Millau
  • 2017: Michel Troisgros was chosen "Chef of the Year" by fellow professionals at the Chefs World Summit (featured in "The 100 Chefs" ranking by Le Chef)
  • Earned an 18/20 rating in Gault Millau
  • Obtained a 29/30 score in the Zagat Survey, which also recognized it as the "Best restaurant worldwide"
  • 2020: Granted the Michelin green star designation

Bibliography

  • Jean and Pierre Troisgros, , Robert Laffont, 1977
  • Pierre and Michel Troisgros, , Robert Laffont, 1985
  • Jean-Bernard Naudin, Jean-Michel Charbonnier, and Pierre Troisgros, Renoir. Éditions du Chêne, 1994
  • Pierre and Michel Troisgros, , Flammarion, 1997
  • Pierre and Michel Troisgros, , Flammarion, 2002
  • Michel Troisgros, , Le Cherche midi, 2005
  • Michel Troisgros and Bénédict Beaugé, , Glénat Livres, 2009
  • Fabienne Croze and Laurence Duquesne, , Thoba's Éditions, 2010
  • Michel and Marie-Pierre Troisgros, , 2012
  • Michel and Marie-Pierre Troisgros, , 2016
  • Michel Troisgros, , Éditions de l'Aube, 2017
  • Michel Troisgros, , Fabelio, 2019
  • Michel and César Troisgros, , Éditions Macula, Paris, 2020
  • Michel Troisgros, , 2021

Videography

Chefs trained at Troisgros

References


External links

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