Anna Sui
Anna Sui | |
|---|---|
| Born | August 4, 1955 Detroit, Michigan, U.S. |
| Occupation | Fashion designer |
| Known for | Fashion collections, footwear, cosmetics, fragrances, eyewear, jewelry, accessories, home décor |
| Website | https://annasui.com/ |
American Fashion Designer
Anna Sui (Template:Zh; born August 4, 1955) is a renowned fashion designer from the United States. Her diverse brand portfolio spans multiple product categories, including various fashion collections, footwear, cosmetics, fragrances, eyewear, jewelry, accessories, and home décor items.
Sui has been recognized as one of the "Top 5 Fashion Icons of the Decade" and was honored in 2009 with the prestigious Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award by the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA). This accolade places her among legendary designers such as Yves Saint Laurent, Giorgio Armani, Ralph Lauren, and Diane von Furstenberg.
Born in Detroit, Michigan, Anna Sui pursued her education at Parsons School of Design. Her fashion labels include Anna Sui, Dolly Girl by Anna Sui, Anna Sui Mini, Anna Sui Vision, and The Souvenir Shop Anna Sui.
Throughout her career, she has received numerous awards including the CFDA Perry Ellis New Talent Award, Bravo’s A-List Award, the Classic Icon of Fashion and Design honor, as well as the Identities Leadership in the Arts Award. In 2017, she was also granted an honorary doctorate by The New School.
For more information about her work and collections, visit her official website at https://annasui.com/.
Early life and family background
Sui, a Chinese-American of the second generation, was born in Detroit, Michigan. Her parents, Paul Sui (Template:Zh) and Grace Sui Fang (Template:Zh), met while pursuing their studies in Paris at the Sorbonne—her father focusing on engineering and her mother on painting.[1] On her father's side, her grandparents included Xiao Yulan (Template:Zh), a businessman of Tahitian-Chinese descent, and his spouse Qiu Daidi (Template:Zh).[2][3] Her maternal grandparents were the Chinese diplomat Fang Chih and his Japanese wife Fang I-chih (born Masue Ueki).[4][5][6]
Sui traces her maternal lineage to the distinguished Fang family from Tongcheng, Anhui, renowned for producing numerous scholars and philosophers.[7] She is an eighteenth-generation descendant of Fang Bao, a prominent Chinese poet credited with founding the Tongcheng School of prose that gained popularity during the Qing dynasty.[8] Other notable forebears include Fang Gongcheng, who served as tutor to the imperial palace, and Fang Guancheng, who held the position of Viceroy of Zhili based in Tianjin between 1749 and 1768 among other Qing-era intellectuals.[9][10] Actress and model Chase Sui Wonders is her niece.[11]
By age four, Sui had already decided she wanted to pursue a career in fashion design.[12][13] Her mother played a key role in teaching her about wardrobe assembly by taking her along when shopping for fabrics. Young Sui spent considerable time observing her mother’s sewing activities and gathered leftover fabric pieces to create clothing for her Barbie dolls as well as her brothers’ army figurines. Through this hands-on experience, she acquired fundamental sewing skills and began designing her own apparel. She would purchase sleeve pattern pieces from dresses and interchange them with others to develop unique garment styles.[12]
During adolescence, she encountered an article[14] published in Life magazine about Mia Fonssagrives-Solow and Vicky Tiel. These two Parsons School of Design graduates relocated to Paris where they collaborated with Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton to open a boutique. Sui regards this story as a defining moment in shaping her ambitions and clarifying her career path.[15]
Early career
After relocating to New York, Sui enrolled at Parsons. Upon completing her sophomore year, she secured a position in 1975 at Erica Elias' juniors wear brand, Charlie's Girls. There, she gained valuable experience designing for sportswear lines and assisting with styling on photo shoots led by her friend and former Parsons peer, Steven Meisel. Her styling contributions to Meisel's sessions, particularly those published in the Italian magazine Lei, received notable acclaim. Following the closure of Charlie's Girls, Sui took on roles with other sportswear labels such as Bobbie Brooks and Simultanee.
Concurrently, she began creating garments from her apartment. Sui has expressed that her ambition to establish her own label was driven by a wish to design for rock musicians and their fan base. During this phase, much of her business revolved around selling to music retail outlets. While employed at the sportswear company Glenora, she presented a five-piece collection at a New York trade show, capturing the interest of major department stores including Bloomingdale's and Macy's.
Shortly thereafter, in August 1979, her designs appeared in a full-page advertisement for Macy's in the Sunday edition of The New York Times. Upon seeing this ad, the Glenora manager—where Sui remained employed—was outraged and terminated her immediately. With only $300 in savings following her dismissal, Sui launched her own business from a small area within her apartment’s living room. For several years, she operated the company out of this space, undertaking various odd jobs to supplement her income and channeling all profits back into growing her brand.
Anna Sui line
The 1980s represented the peak era of "power-dressing," dominated by influential brands like Chanel, Lacroix, and Versace. During this time, Anna Sui found it challenging to compete alongside these established fashion giants. Unlike many of her contemporaries, Sui chose to diverge from the conventional fashion houses, instead aligning herself with the grunge aesthetic alongside designers such as Marc Jacobs, Daryl K, and Todd Oldham. Around 1987, Sui’s career took a significant step forward when she was invited to showcase her collection at Annette B, a showroom managed by Annette Breindel. Breindel, known for fostering emerging talent, played a pivotal role in helping Sui gain recognition within the industry. This period also marked Sui’s transition from designing in her apartment to establishing a presence in New York City's garment district. By the close of the decade, she had cultivated a devoted international following, attracting interest from prominent Japanese fashion firms like Onward Kashiyama. This partnership would lead to substantial growth of her operations in Japan during the mid-1990s.
At Paris Fashion Week in 1991, Sui experienced one of her earliest major career milestones. While en route to attend the Jean Paul Gaultier show with photographer Steven Meisel, they stopped to pick up Meisel’s friend, pop icon Madonna. Madonna surprised Sui by wearing one of her designs to the event and later donned the same outfit for Meisel’s Vogue photoshoot. Later that year, following her return to New York City, Sui held her inaugural runway presentation.
Encouraged by Meisel, stylist Paul Cavaco, and supermodels including Naomi Campbell, Christy Turlington, and Linda Evangelista, Sui decided to stage a runway show in 1991. She rented a modest space in the Meatpacking District and compensated models with clothing rather than money. The event proved highly successful and marked a turning point for her brand. The New York Times noted that having top supermodels at the height of their fame helped amplify the attention Sui received from both buyers and media outlets.
From her debut show onwards, Sui became recognized for her playful, imaginative, and handcrafted presentation style that brought an entertaining quality to her collections. Her approach was influenced by contemporary designers such as Thierry Mugler and Jean Paul Gaultier, who emphasized creating immersive atmospheres that captivated audiences. These shows often exuded a festive and lively ambiance, with attendees’ behavior reflecting a distinctive cultural moment within the fashion world. Beginning in 1995, Sui’s designs were regularly featured in Vogue Patterns. Her first appearance included dresses from her Spring/Summer 1995 line inspired by vintage pulp comics and styles reminiscent of wartime rationing-era fashion from the 1940s—characterized by puffed sleeves, square shoulders, and floral patterns.
Retail presence
The initial retail outlet for the designer was launched in 1992 at 113 Greene Street within New York City's Soho District. This flagship boutique became recognizable for its distinctive red flooring, antique black furnishings, signature dolly head mannequins, and purple walls personally painted by Sui.[16]
In 1993, the Anna Sui Corporation expanded its footprint by opening a store on La Brea Avenue in Hollywood, thereby enhancing its North American distribution network.Cite error: The opening <ref> tag is malformed or has a bad name That same year marked the debut of menswear in Sui's runway presentations, highlighted by Mick Jagger's appearance on Saturday Night Live sporting one of her suits.Cite error: The opening <ref> tag is malformed or has a bad name After more than two decades at Greene Street, the Soho flagship was relocated in June 2015 to 424 Broome Street.[16]Cite error: The opening <ref> tag is malformed or has a bad name This Broome Street location was vacated in late 2020.
Global expansion
The year 1997 was significant for Sui’s international breakthrough. That year saw the inauguration of the first standalone Anna Sui boutiques in Tokyo and Osaka, established through a licensing agreement with Isetan.[17] Additionally, Sui collaborated with Italian footwear manufacturer Ballin to develop a shoe collection.[18] The Spring/Summer 1997 runway show attracted considerable media attention when Dave Navarro of the Red Hot Chili Peppers appeared clad only in underwear.Cite error: The opening <ref> tag is malformed or has a bad nameCite error: The opening <ref> tag is malformed or has a bad name Also in 1997, mannequin designer Ralph Pucci created life-sized figures featuring her signature dolly heads. These mannequins were modeled after measurements of model Michele Hicks and inspired Sui’s initial diffusion brand, Dolly Girl.[12] The Fall/Winter collection took place at Manhattan’s gothic-style Church of Divine Paternity and was noted for its playful and whimsical tone, diverging from the typically somber themes associated with gothic fashion.[18]
In 1999, Anna Sui introduced her fragrance, Anna Sui Classic, produced in partnership with Wella AG, alongside a cosmetics line developed with Albion.[17]Cite error: The opening <ref> tag is malformed or has a bad name
By 2000, Sui expanded into skincare through another collaboration with Albion.[12] That year also featured her collections as part of the Fashion in Motion exhibition at London's prestigious Victoria & Albert Museum.[1]
The Dolly Girl fragrance was launched in 2003 along with several limited edition sets within that series.[17] Following Wella AG’s acquisition by Procter & Gamble, the partnership continued under the new ownership.Cite error: The opening <ref> tag is malformed or has a bad name In addition, 2003 saw the start of a lasting collaboration with Peruvian designer Ali Rapp called Ali Rapp for Anna Sui. This joint venture includes ready-to-wear apparel, handbags, accessories, T-shirts, and cloth dolls. Pieces from this collaboration have been showcased in Sui’s runway shows during 2008 and 2013.Cite error: The opening <ref> tag is malformed or has a bad name
Specialized partnerships
In April 2004, the designer collaborated with Dark Horse Comics and William Tucci, creating costumes for several key figures in Tucci's Shi: Ju-Nen,[19] a limited series within the popular comic Shi. Sui adapted pieces from her Fall 2004 fashion line, incorporating elements such as yukata kimono minidresses paired with purple stockings and heels.[20][21] Later that year in October, Sui teamed up with Gonzo K.K. Studios to design attire for characters in their 2004 anime series Gankutsuou: The Count of Monte Cristo, which is a loose adaptation of French author Alexandre Dumas's novel The Count of Monte Cristo.[22]
In 2005, Sui was commissioned by Samsung Electronics Co., collaborating with Vogue to create a design for the Samsung SGH-E315 mobile phone.[23] This special edition device, sold through T-Mobile, quickly sold out within its first month and occasionally appears on secondary markets such as eBay.[24][25][26] Additionally, she collaborated with Anthropologie to introduce a fashion line titled Anna Sui for Anthropologie.[27][28] That same year, she secured a two-year agreement with Victoria's Secret to design a lingerie collection.[12]
In 2006, Anna Sui introduced a limited edition Boho-themed Barbie doll in partnership with Mattel. Subsequently, she released another exclusive collection named Anna Sui for Victoria's Secret.[17]
For the celebration of Hello Kitty's 30th anniversary in 2007, Sui collaborated with the Japanese brand to produce a limited edition collection honoring this milestone. Plush toys from this series have been known to fetch prices exceeding US$100 on resale platforms like eBay.[29] In November of the same year, building on the success of her US mobile phone collaboration, she launched the Dolly Girl by Anna Sui model fanfun.815T cell phone through a partnership with Softbank Mobile, distributed primarily online in Japan.[30]
In 2008, the Dolly Girl apparel line was launched in Japan as a continuation of her earlier fragrance ventures. Later that year, she joined forces with Nissan to create a customized vehicle—the Nissan 350z Anna Sui Limited Edition—which was showcased at several automotive exhibitions.
By 2011, Sui had partnered with Google to develop a themed extension for the Google Chrome browser.[31]
In November of 2012, Sui and Albion collaborated with UK-based online retailer ASOS to debut the Fall/Winter 2013 Anna Sui Cosmetics collection for the European market. This line included a partnership featuring Disney.[32]
April of 2014 saw Sui return to her hometown of Detroit to collaborate with the Ford Motor Company, producing the Mustang Unleashed Collection in honor of the Ford Mustang’s fiftieth anniversary.[33] Later that month, she teamed up with Hong Kong-based I.T. Apparels Ltd and Lab Made—a pioneer in liquid nitrogen ice cream—to establish an Anna Sui × Lab Made pop-up shop at their Tsimshatsui location. This collaboration featured a signature purple ice cream flavor created by Sui herself and was promoted by Hong Kong celebrity Alfred Hui from Television Broadcasts Limited (TVB).[34] In July that year, she introduced a lingerie collection in Korea through Alvin Korea Co. Ltd., launching it during an elaborate fashion show held at Seoul’s Ritz Carlton Hotel.[35] By October, she partnered with the CFDA and Best Buy to introduce the Anna Sui × Best Buy collection as part of their designer series.Cite error: Closing </ref> missing for <ref> tag
After the September 11th attacks on New York City's World Trade Center in 2001, Sui partnered with actress Ellen Barkin to create an outfit designed to raise funds supporting the Leary Firefighters Foundation and honor the firefighters who lost their lives responding to the tragedy.[36]
Operating out of her New York City base on Fashion Avenue, Sui produces her signature line domestically and advocates strongly for a Made in USA philosophy.[37] Beyond design, she has been a vocal champion for sustaining the fashion industry’s infrastructure, leading efforts to "Save the Garment Center," an initiative spotlighted during the September 2008 Fashion Week.[38][39]
In response to the 2008 Mumbai attacks, Sui auctioned several of her designs on eBay, directing all proceeds to Citizens for Justice and Peace, a civil-rights organization based in Mumbai.[40]
In 2010, she teamed up with Isetan and Bearbrick for a charitable campaign benefiting the World Wildlife Foundation along with Malaysia’s forest restoration and Orang-utan monitoring initiatives. Proceeds from a limited-edition collection were donated to these causes.[41]
Following the devastating March 2011 Tōhoku earthquake and tsunami in Japan, Sui created lavender and black shirts printed with Japan, We're All in This Together. All sales proceeds were donated to the Japan Disaster Relief Fund.[42]
In collaboration with musician and friend Jack White, Sui designed employee uniforms for White’s retail venture Third Man Records, which launched in Nashville in November 2012. A subsequent location opened in Detroit’s Cass Corridor in November 2015 featuring her uniform designs as well.[43][44]
To mark the milestone of the film The Wizard of Oz’s 75th anniversary in September 2014, Warner Bros. joined forces with the Tonner Doll Company to present a series of commemorative dolls designed by renowned American designers including Marc Jacobs, Donna Karan, Charlotte Ronson, Trina Turk, and Sui. This collection was displayed at both the Fashion Institute of Technology and Bloomingdale's before being auctioned via eBay Giving Works; proceeds supported Habitat for Humanity’s There's No Place Like Home campaign.[45][46]
In June of 2015, Sui joined forces with New York’s Serendipity 3 restaurant for a charity event commemorating its sixtieth anniversary; proceeds benefited The Bowery Mission—a shelter serving Manhattan’s Bowery neighborhood.[47][39]
Sui frequently delivers lectures nationwide aimed at inspiring emerging talents to follow their ambitions. In October 2015 she addressed students at Ann Arbor’s Michigan Theater as part of the University of Michigan’s Penny Stamps Distinguished Speaker Series hosted by its Stamps School of Art and Design. There she underscored that newcomers should not be daunted by what is often perceived as a ruthless industry environment—sharing anecdotes about being dismissed early on from a sportswear company role. Afterward some of her pieces were exhibited at Detroit Historical Museum’s Booth-Wilkinson Gallery during Fashion D.Fined: The Past, Present and Future of Detroit Fashion.[48]
In January 2017, she unveiled a customized pair of Vans sneakers created to support Vans Custom Culture—a yearly initiative that raises funds and awareness for high school art education programs.[49][50]
Lines
Anna Sui Shoes, crafted in Venice, Italy, made their debut on the runway during the fall collection of 1994. Subsequently, Sui launched a diffusion fashion label named "Sui by Anna Sui" alongside a denim line titled "Anna Sui Jeans" in collaboration with the Italian fashion company Gilmar S.p.A. That same year, both Sui and Marc Jacobs took on consulting roles for Gilmar's Cento x Cento and Iceberg brand lines, respectively.
Accessories
In 1997, Sui formed a partnership with Isetan to design a line of fashion accessories. This collection is distributed by Mammina across Japan and is also available in the United States, Korea, Hong Kong, China, and Taiwan.
Cosmetics
The Anna Sui Cosmetics range was introduced in 1999 through a collaboration with Albion Cosmetics, a Japanese cosmetics manufacturer and distributor, under a sales agreement with ISETAN Ltd. The following year, an Anna Sui Skincare line was launched in partnership with Albion as well. Twice annually, the cosmetics brand releases collections aligned with the fashion seasons. The product offerings encompass a broad spectrum including base makeup, eye products, lip colors, nail polish, skincare items, hair and body care products, as well as cosmetic accessories.
In 2010, Anna Sui Cosmetics appointed Park Min Young as its principal opinion leader in South Korea.
October 2016 saw the launch of a Halloween-themed collaboration between Anna Sui Cosmetics and Nylon Japan, titled Anna Sui × Nylon: Halloween Makeup Room at MODI in Shibuya. Earlier that year in August, Sui unveiled her Autumn 2016 collection called Mysterious Fairy Tale.
In July 2017, Sui partnered with Macy's—the retailer that initially gave her significant exposure—for the Anna Sui X Inc International Concepts collection. This line featured reissues of recent pieces priced at roughly one-quarter of her usual collection prices and included jewelry and footwear.
Below is a partial compilation of Anna Sui's Cosmetics collections:
| Year/Season | Collection | Partners | Notes | Model | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Spring 2007 | Glamour Meets Retro: Art Deco Girl | Albion Cosmetics | Global Seasonal Collection | Lily Cole | |
| Autumn 2007 | Glamour Meets Retro: Art Deco Girl | Albion Cosmetics | Global Seasonal Collection | Lily Cole | |
| Autumn 2009 | Asia Collection | Albion Cosmetics | Asian Seasonal Collection | Agyness Deyn | |
| Spring 2010 | Asia Collection | Albion Cosmetics | Asian Seasonal Collection | Agyness Deyn | |
| Autumn 2010 | Kaleidoscope of Color | Albion Cosmetics | Global Seasonal Collection | Frida Gustavsson | |
| Autumn 2010 | Asia Collection | Albion Cosmetics | Asian Seasonal Collection | Agyness Deyn | |
| Spring 2011 | Albion Cosmetics | Global Seasonal Collection | Frida Gustavsson | ||
| Autumn 2011 | Albion Cosmetics | Global Seasonal Collection | Frida Gustavsson | ||
| Spring 2012 | Albion Cosmetics | Global Seasonal Collection | Frida Gustavsson | ||
| Autumn 2012 | Rebel Girl | Albion Cosmetics | Global Seasonal Collection | Chrystal Copland | |
| 2013 | Anna Sui Beauty 2013 | Albion Cosmetics | Global Annual Collection | Chrystal Copland | |
| Spring 2013 | Drama Queen | Albion Cosmetics | Global Seasonal Collection | Chrystal Copland | |
| Spring 2015 | Albion Cosmetics | Global Seasonal Collection | Ine Neefs | ||
| Autumn 2015 | Albion Cosmetics | Global Seasonal Collection | Ine Neefs | ||
| Spring 2016 | Albion Cosmetics | Global Seasonal Collection | Maartje Verhoef | ||
| Autumn 2016 | Mysterious Fairy Tale | Albion Cosmetics | Global Seasonal Collection | ||
| October 2016 | Anna Sui x Nylon: Halloween Style | Albion Cosmetics | Japanese Non-Seasonal Collection | Nairu Yamamoto, Amy, Shinjyu Ried |
Fashion
Since 1991, Sui has consistently presented two seasonal runway shows annually at Fashion Week, with the sole exception of the Spring/Summer 2002 collection, which was showcased in her Garment District studio due to the impact of the September 11 attacks on the Twin Towers. The design and manufacturing processes are based in New York City's Garment Center. Since 1997, she has also launched two seasonal collections specifically for the Japanese market, derived from her global lines, alongside a Resort collection introduced in 2007. Beyond these seasonal presentations, Sui has collaborated with a diverse range of brands including Hush Puppies, Target Corporation, Ford Motor Company, Tumi, Isetan, Fila, O'Neill, Samsung, Mattel, Coach, T-Mobile, Victoria's Secret, Pottery Barn, and Vogue magazine to create limited edition collections.
Her collaboration with Isetan Mitsukoshi began in 1997, focusing on distributing her fashion label within Japan.
In April 2016, the Anna Sui Japan Spring/Summer 2016 show debuted in Tokyo to mark the launch of the collection and celebrate twenty years of her brand's presence in Japan.
Below is a partial overview of Anna Sui’s fashion shows and collections:
2009 | Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week | Bryant Park | 1890s influence | 2009 | Unknown event | Unknown location | Sundress theme | 2009 | Collection Launch | USA | Gossip Girl inspired | 2009 | Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week | Bryant Park | Spring Fling theme | 2010 | Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week | Bryant Park | American Arts and Crafts Movement influence | 2010| Unknown event| Unknown location| Romantic and dreamy style| 2010| Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week| Bryant Park| Pioneer/1960s Los Angeles inspiration| 2011| Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week| Bryant Park| Ormsby-Gore sisters and Ballets Russes themes| 2011| Unknown event| Unknown location| David Hicks’ Paris boutique inspiration| 2011| Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week| Bryant Park| Antonio Lopez/Club Sept/Paris in the ’70s influences| 2013| Collection Launch| Global market| Luggage sets collection| 2012| Collection Launch| Worldwide availability| Vintage and rock styles combined| 2012| Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week| Bryant Park| Fantasy and textile design focus| 2012 || Unknown event|| Art Nouveau theme|| 2012|| Collection Launch|| Global|| Art Nouveau influence|| 2012|| Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week|| Bryant Park|| London/New York punk and Second French Empire motifs|| 2013|| Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week (Fall)|| Lincoln Center|| 1960s nostalgia and French New Wave cinema themes|| 2013|| Unknown event|| Unknown location|| Boho-chic style|| 2013|| Collection Launch|| Global market|| Luggage sets collection repeated|| 2013|| Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week (Spring)|| Lincoln Center|| Pre-Raphaelite inspiration|| 2014|| Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week (Fall)|| Lincoln Center|| 1920s Art Deco aesthetic|| 2014|| Unknown event|| Unknown location|| Art Deco theme continued|| 2014 || Collection Launch || Asia || Sportswear collaboration || 2014 || Collection Launch || Worldwide || Vintage-inspired designs || 2014 || Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week (Spring) || Lincoln Center || Retro ’70s prints featured || 2015 || Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week (Fall) || Lincoln Center || Vikings theme explored || 2015 || Unknown event || Unknown location || ’70s boho-chic style emphasized || 2015 || Collection Launch || Global market || Beach-ready apparel introduced || 2015 || Collection Launch || USA only || Footwear collaboration released || 2015 || Collection Launch || Japan exclusive || Collectibles line launched || 2015 || Collection Launch || Asia region || Holiday-themed collectibles offered || 2015 || Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week (Spring) || Skylight at Moynihan Station || Exotic Polynesian inspirations incorporated || 2016 || Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week (Fall) || Skylight at Moynihan Station || Peter Blake, Niki de Saint Phalle, Barbara Hulanicki influences featured || 2016 || Unknown event || Unknown location || 90’s grunge aesthetic revisited || 2016 | Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week (Spring) | Skylight at Moynihan Station | Miss American Pie inspired collection | Elsa Schiaparelli, Elsie de Wolfe, Dorothy di Frasso, Blithe Spirit themes| Collection | Year | Event | Venue | Theme |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Anna Sui 1991 | 1991 | Press Week of New York | Unknown | Unknown |
| Anna Sui Winter 1991 | 1991 | Press Week of New York | Unknown | Swinging Sixties London |
| Anna Sui Spring 1992 | 1991 | Press Week of New York | Unknown | Barbie |
| Anna Sui Fall 1992 | 1992 | Press Week of New York | Unknown | Swinging Sixties London |
| Anna Sui Spring 1993 | 1992 | New York Fashion Week | Bryant Park | London Grunge |
| Anna Sui Fall 1993 | 1993 | New York Fashion Week | Bryant Park | Charles Baudelaire |
| Anna Sui Spring 1994 | 1993 | New York Fashion Week | Bryant Park | Grunge |
| Anna Sui Fall 1994 | 1994 | New York Fashion Week | Bryant Park | Chanel, Balenciaga, and McCardell |
| Anna Sui Spring 1995 | 1994 | New York Fashion Week | Bryant Park | 1970s Funk |
| Anna Sui Fall 1995 | 1995 | New York Fashion Week | Bryant Park | 1940s and 1960s |
| Anna Sui Spring 1996 | 1995 | New York Fashion Week | Bryant Park | Preppie |
| Anna Sui Fall 1996 | 1996 | New York Fashion Week | Bryant Park | 1920s British Vogue and 1970s Twiggy-inspired |
| Anna Sui Spring 1997 | 1996 | New York Fashion Week | Bryant Park | Hippie |
| Anna Sui Fall 1997 | 1997 | New York Fashion Week | Bryant Park | Leicester Square |
| Anna Sui Spring 1998 | 1997 | New York Fashion Week | Bryant Park | Surfer style |
| Anna Sui Fall 1998 | 1998 | New York Fashion Week | Bryant Park | Fairytale-inspired |
| Anna Sui Spring 1999 | 1998 | New York Fashion Week | Bryant Park | Euro/English influences |
| Anna Sui Fall 1999 | 1999 | New York Fashion Week | Bryant Park | Technicolor and golden age cinema themes |
| Anna Sui Spring 2000 | 1999 | New York Fashion Week | Bryant Park | India/Rococo Gypsy fusion |
| Anna Sui Fall 2000 | 2000 | New York Fashion Week | Bryant Park | Hippie-chic aesthetic |
| Anna Sui Spring 2001 | 2000 | New York Fashion Week | Bryant Park | Mudd Club/Grunge inspiration |
| Anna Sui Fall 2001 | 2001 | New York Fashion Week | Bryant Park | The Factory (Warhol) theme |
| Anna Sui Spring 2002 | 2001 | No runway show; intimate studio presentation due to September 11 events | N/A | N/A |
| Anna Sui Fall 2002 | 2002 | New York Fashion Week | Bryant Park | Fairy Tale motif |
| Anna Sui Spring 2003 | 2002 | New York Fashion Week | Bryant Park | Sport-inspired |
| Anna Sui Fall 2003 | 2003 | New York Fashion Week | Bryant Park | London boutique Biba influence |
| Anna Sui Spring 2004 | 2003 | New York Fashion Week | Bryant Park | Teenage surfer girl vibe |
| Anna Sui Fall 2004 | 2004 | New York Fashion Week | Bryant Park | 1960s London style |
| Anna Sui Spring 2005 | 2004 | New York Fashion Week | Bryant Park | Wild West theme |
| Anna Sui Fall 2005 | 2005 | New York Fashion Week | Bryant Park | Louise Nevelson/Junk Art inspiration |
| Anna Sui Spring 2006 | 2005 | New York Fashion Week | Bryant Park | Gazette du Bon Ton influence |
| Anna Sui Fall 2006 | 2006 | New York Fashion Week | Bryant Park | 1960s chic style |
| Anna Sui Spring 2007 | 2006 | Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week | Bryant Park | The New York Dolls/Marie Antoinette/Suleiman the Magnificent themes |
| Anna Sui Fall 2007 | 2007 | Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week | Bryant Park | Pre-pop inspiration |
| Anna Sui Resort 2008 | 2007 | Unknown event | Unknown location | Ossie Clark tribute |
| Anna Sui Spring 2008 | 2007 | Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week | Bryant Park | Busby Berkeley/Biba influences |
| Anna Sui Fall 2008 | 2008 | Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week | Bryant Park | Pre-Raphaelite/Medievalism/Gustav Klimt/American Indian themes |
| Anna Sui Resort 2009 | 2008 | Unknown event | Unknown location | Psychedelic style |
| Anna Sui Spring 2009 |
2008 | Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week | Bryant Park | Spanish toreador inspiration | |
Footwear
In 1994, Anna Sui introduced her footwear line through a collaboration with the Italian shoemaking company Ballin, with designs created in New York and manufacturing taking place in Venice, Italy.[17] During the 1990s, her distinctive design aesthetic gained broader exposure when she customized platform heels for Candie's as part of a multi-designer capsule collection.
Beginning in 2009, Sui partnered with the British ergonomic footwear brand FitFlop to develop the Anna Sui x FitFlop shoe collection, which has included several series.
The Anna Sui Loves FitFlop collection debuted in September 2016, drawing inspiration from Sui’s Spring/Summer 2016 fashion line and her Tahitian roots. FitFlop distributes this collection worldwide, reaching markets such as Indonesia, Ireland, Malaysia, the Netherlands, the Philippines, Singapore, Taiwan, Thailand, the United States, the United Kingdom, and Vietnam.[51] Additionally, Sui has showcased footwear from designers like John Fleuvog, Terry De Havilland, Emma Hope, Bed Stu, and Teva on her runway shows.
Fragrance
Anna Sui launched her first fragrance line in 1999 through a partnership with Wella AG. Since then, she has introduced an extensive range of cosmetic products along with approximately 30 distinct perfumes available in various sizes. Currently, her fragrance licensing is managed by the French firm Inter Parfums, which typically releases two flagship scents annually.[12] In 2011, she formalized a fragrance licensing agreement with Interparfums for distribution purposes.[17]
Below is a summary of Anna Sui’s fragrance collections:
2017 \ L'Amour Rose Versailles Eau de Parfum< ref >... < / ref > \ Inter Parfums \| Year | Fragrance | Partner | Details | Perfumer |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1999 | Anna Sui Classic[52] | Wella AG | Jacques Huclier | |
| 2000 | Sui Dreams[53] | Wella AG | Part of the Sui Dreams Collection | Philippe Romano |
| 2002 | Sui Love[54] | Wella AG | Jean-Louis Grauby | |
| 2003 | Dolly Girl[55] | Wella AG/Procter & Gamble | Included in the Dolly Girl Collection | Benoist Lapouza |
| 2004 | Dolly Girl Ooh La Love[56] | Procter & Gamble | Included in the Dolly Girl Collection | Frank Voelkl |
| 2005 | Secret Wish[57] | Procter & Gamble | Part of the Secret Wish Collection | Michel Almairac |
| 2006 | Dolly Girl On The Beach[58] | Procter & Gamble | Included in the Dolly Girl Collection | |
| 2006 | Secret Wish Magic Romance[59] | Procter & Gamble | Part of the Secret Wish Collection | |
| 2007 | Dolly Girl Bonjour L'Amour[60] | Procter & Gamble | Included in the Dolly Girl Collection | |
| 2007 | Flight of Fancy[61] | Procter & Gamble | Included in the Fancy Collection | |
| 2008 | Dolly Girl Lil' Starlet[62] | Procter & Gamble | Part of the Dolly Girl Collection | |
| 2008 | Night of Fancy[63] | Procter & Gamble | Included in the Fancy Collection | |
| 2009 | Live Your Dream[64] | Procter & Gamble | ||
| 2009 | Rock Me![65] | Procter & Gamble | Part of the Rock Me Collection | |
| 2010 | Forbidden Affair[66] | Procter & Gamble | ||
| 2010 | Rock Me! Summer of Love[67] | Procter & Gamble | Part of the Rock Me Collection | |
| 2012 | Secret Wish Fairy Dance[68] | Inter Parfums | ||
| 2013 | La Vie de Bohème[69] | Inter Parfums | Included in the Bohème Collection | Philippe Romano |
| 2013 | Tin House Fairy Dance[70] | Inter Parfums | Included in the Tin House Collection | |
| 2013 | Tin House Flight of Fancy[70] | Inter Parfums | Included in the Tin House Collection | |
| 2013 | Tin House Forbidden Affair[70] | Inter Parfums | Included in the Tin House Collection | |
| 2013 | Tin House Secret Wish[70] | Inter Parfums | Included in the Tin House Collection | |
| 2014 | La Nuit de Bohème[71] | Inter Parfums | Included in the Bohème Collection | Jérome Epinette Michel Almairac |
| 2014 | La Nuit de Bohème Eau de Parfum[72] | Inter Parfums | Included in the Bohème Collection | Philippe Romano |
| 2014 | Sui Dreams in Pink[73] | Inter Parfums | Part of the Sui Dreams Collection | Claudette Belnavis |
| 2015 | Romantica[74] | Inter Parfums | Part of the Romantica Collection | Steven DeMercado |
| 2015 | Sui Dreams in Green[75][76] | Inter Parfums | Part of the Sui Dreams Series | Pierre Negrin |
| 2016 | Sui Dreams in Yellow[77] | Inter Parfums | Part of the Sui Dreams Series | |
| 2016 | Lucky Wish[78][79] | Inter Parfums | Part of the Secret Wish Series | Mathieu Nardin |
| 2016 | Romantica Exotica[80] | Inter Parfums | Part of the Romantica Series | Jerome Epinette |
| 2016 | L'Amour Rose[81] | Inter Parfums | ||
| 2017 | Fantasia[82] | Inter Parfums | ||
| 2017 | L'Amour Rose Versailles Eau de Toilette[83]
Inter Parfums | |
Vision
In 2009, Anna Sui partnered with Mondottica Limited to establish Anna Sui Vision, a venture focused on the production and distribution of spectacles and sunglasses under the Anna Sui Eyewear label. The eyewear distribution was managed through a licensing agreement with Mondottica, operating under the Anna Sui Eyewear brand. Additionally, the designer collaborated with Bliss to create a special collection named Anna Sui for FitFlop.
By 2012, Sui contributed to a partnership between Mondottica and Fellow Earthlings, resulting in a sunglasses line showcased during her fashion presentations. Later, in 2016, she expanded her product range by launching a colored contact lens collection distributed across Hong Kong, Macau, Singapore, South Korea, and Taiwan under the same agreement.
Anna Sui Jeans
The Anna Sui Jeans bridge line was introduced in 1994 through a collaboration between the designer and the Italian fashion firm Gilmar S.P.A. Gilmar was also involved in producing Sui’s primary Anna Sui collection, while the designer had provided design and consulting services for several of Gilmar’s brands, including Cento X Cento alongside Marc Jacobs. During this period, Gilmar also developed a denim line for Christian Lacroix. The branding of Anna Sui Jeans incorporated input from New York-based artist Michael Economy, and this partnership with Gilmar continued until 2004.
Anna Sui Mini
Launched in early 2009 in Japan, "Anna Sui Mini" is a collaborative effort between Isetan and Narumiya International, offering apparel designed for infants, toddlers, and young children. This collection is available across 25 retail locations within Japan, including prominent department stores such as Isetan and Mitsukoshi, as well as through e-commerce platforms.
Dolly Girl by Anna Sui
The iconic dolly heads, emblematic of Sui's distinctive style, served as the creative foundation for the Dolly Girl brand. Initially introduced in 2003 as a perfume, Dolly Girl expanded into a comprehensive fragrance line with multiple variations. In 2008, the Dolly Girl by Anna Sui clothing collection was officially launched in Japan through a partnership with Isetan and Onward Kashiyama, aimed at further developing and manufacturing the concept. The branding for this line was crafted in collaboration with art director Michael Economy.
This brand operates over 50 dedicated retail outlets throughout Japan, focusing on apparel and fashion accessories. Typically, three major seasonal collections are released annually, supplemented by smaller monthly capsule collections.
The Winter 2015-16 season featured two collections: "Fantasy Folklore" and "Glitter in the Woods," showcasing models Sam Laskey and Julia Belyakova respectively. Both collections drew heavily on themes from fairy tale narratives and 1970s-inspired folklore aesthetics.
In 2016, Dolly Girl by Anna Sui presented its Summer collection under the title "Colorful Paradise," followed by "Mexican Dolls." These collections highlighted the vibrant traditional attire from Mexican regions including Chiapas and the State of Mexico, incorporating reinterpretations of cultural garments such as serapes, rebozos, and classic Aztec huipils. To commemorate the designer’s 20th anniversary in Japan, a special edition collection named "Happy Dolly Girl Land" was unveiled, featuring clothing designs infused with carnival-themed motifs and patterns. Later that year, the Winter 2016-17 collection titled "Into the Night Forest" was released, drawing inspiration from fairy tale imagery and incorporating elaborate layered paper model visuals.
Sui by Anna Sui
Introduced in 1994 alongside her Jeans collection, Sui by Anna Sui represented the designer's second diffusion line, developed in collaboration with Gilmar S.P.A. Both this line and the jeans range continued operations even after Anna Sui departed from her design role at Gilmar's Cento X Cento. The Sui by Anna Sui label specialized in men's and women's sportswear, with Anna Sui maintaining direct oversight of branding and design elements. Distribution was managed worldwide by Gilmar. In 2019, the designer revived the diffusion label under the same name.
The Souvenir Shop Anna Sui
In March 2016, Isetan Mitsukoshi Holdings along with its affiliate Mammina revealed a new brand collaboration with Anna Sui Corp, launching The Souvenir Shop Anna Sui. This venture focuses on travel retail merchandise alongside fashion accessories. Available across various locations in Japan, including airports, this initiative marked the debut of Anna Sui fashion accessories offered as duty-free items. Additionally, these products were accessible online through Isetan and Mitsukoshi platforms. The partnership introduced approximately 70 new retail outlets and boutiques targeting the travel retail sector, with stores opening in urban centers and airport terminals, establishing a first for Anna Sui’s fashion items to be sold as duty-free goods.
In print
Publications
- Muaddi Darraj, Susan (May 1, 2013). Anna Sui. New York: Infobase Publishing. ISBN 9781438144917. Available via Google Books.
- Bolton, Andrew (curator); Sui, Anna; White, Jack; Meisel, Steven, editors (May 7, 2013). Anna Sui. New York: Chronicle Books. ISBN 978-1452128597. Accessible on Google Books.
- Blanks, Tim (May 30, 2017). The World of Anna Sui. New York: Abrahams. ISBN 978-1-4197-2418-3. Available through Google Books.
E-Mooks (Japan)
- Isetan (February 15, 2008). Anna Sui が発信するコスメティック We Love Anna Sui. Tokyo: Takarajimasha Inc. ISBN 978-4-8002-4385-0. Edited by Anna Sui and Keiko Chigira. (Japanese)
- Isetan (2011). Anna Sui: 15th Happy Anniversary in Japan. Tokyo: Takarajimasha Inc. ISBN 978-4-7966-8014-1. Edited by Anna Sui. (Japanese)
- Isetan (August 27, 2015). アナスイ: 日本上陸20周年記念 Anna Sui 20th Anniversary!: Thanks To Japan!. Tokyo: Takarajimasha Inc. ISBN 978-4-8002-4385-0. Volume 1. Edited by Anna Sui. (Japanese)
- Isetan (November 12, 2015). アナスイ: 日本上陸20周年記念 Anna Sui 20th Anniversary!: Anna As A Designer. Tokyo: Takarajimasha Inc. ISBN 978-4-8002-4388-1. Volume 2. Edited by Anna Sui. (Japanese)
- Isetan (February 23, 2016). アナスイ: 日本上陸20周年記念 Anna Sui 20th Anniversary!: Happy Celebration. Tokyo: Takarajimasha Inc. ISBN 978-4-8002-4390-4. Volume 3. Edited by Anna Sui. (Japanese)
- Isetan (May 26, 2016). アナスイ: 日本上陸20周年記念 Anna Sui 20th Anniversary!: Anna's Amazing Collection. Tokyo: Takarajimasha Inc. ISBN 978-4-8002-4407-9. Volume 4. Edited by Anna Sui. (Japanese)
- Isetan (August 25, 2016). アナスイ: 日本上陸20周年記念 Anna Sui 20th Anniversary!: "Pop-sydelic" world. Tokyo: Takarajimasha Inc. ISBN 978-4-8002-4409-3. Volume 5. Edited by Anna Sui. (Japanese)
Filmography
In popular culture
Film, television, and video appearances
In 2008, during the production of Confessions of a Shopaholic, a fabricated Anna Sui boutique was created within the Hearst Tower as part of the film's set design. This setup also featured mock storefronts for designers such as Valentino, Catherine Malandrino, and Alberta Ferretti. The realistic display led some New Yorkers to mistakenly believe that a genuine store had opened.[84]
| Year | Title | Role | Details |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1994 | Hi Octane[85] | Herself | (TV series) Episode 1.3 |
| 2008 | Bravo A-List Awards[85] | Herself | (Television special) |
| 2010 | The City[85] | Herself | (TV series) Episode: "Show 'Em What You Got" |
| 2010 | America's Next Top Model[85] | Herself | (Television series) Season 14, episode 11: "America's Next Top Model Is..." |
| 2011 | Diana Vreeland: The Eye Has to Travel[85] | Herself | (Documentary film) |
| 2012 | Project Runway[85] | Herself | (TV show) Season 10, episode 8: "Starving artist" |
| 2011 | Fashion News Live[85] | Herself | (TV program) Season 15, episode 42 |
| 2013 | Tumi Case Studies[86] | Herself | (Short video series) Episode titled "Anna Sui" |
| 2014 | Make It in America: Empowering Global Fashion[85] | Herself | (Documentary) |
| 2017 | Uncensored with Michael Ware: Fashion Week Wars[87][88] | Herself | (TV series) Season 1, episode 2 |
See also
- Mudd Club
- Parsons The New School for Design
- Steven Meisel
- Naomi Campbell
- Linda Evangelista
- Sofia Coppola
References
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Bibliography
- Darrai, Susan Muaddi. Anna Sui: Asian Americans of Achievement. Infobase Learning, 2013. New York City. ISBN 978-1438144917. Available via Google Books.
- Bolton, Andrew. Anna Sui. Chronicle Books, 2013. New York. ISBN 978-1452128597. Accessible through Google Books.
- Padilha, Roger and Mauricio Padilha. Antonio Lopez: Fashion, Art, Sex & Disco. Random House Incorporated, 2012. New York. ISBN 978-0847837922.
- Calahan, April. Fashion Plates: 150 Years of Style. Yale University Press, 2015. New Haven. Page 440. ISBN 978-0300212266.
- Kellogg, Ann T. In an Influential Fashion: An Encyclopedia of Nineteenth-and Twentieth-century Fashion Designers and Retailers who Transformed Dress. Greenwood Press, 2002. Westport. ISBN 0313312206.
- Eiseman, Leatrice and E. P. Cutler. Pantone on Fashion: A Century of Color in Design. Chronicle Books, 2014. New York. ISBN 978-1452130521.
- Tuite, Rebecca. Defining Designs. National Women's History Museum, 2016. Available online at https://www.womenshistory.org/articles/defining-designs.
External links
Template:Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award Lua error in Module:Authority_control at line 159: attempt to index field 'wikibase' (a nil value).
- Pages with script errors
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- Pages with broken file links
- American fashion designers
- American businesspeople in fashion
- 1964 births
- Living people
- American manufacturing businesspeople
- Artists from Detroit
- Businesspeople from Michigan
- Parsons School of Design alumni
- American fashion designers of Chinese descent
- Clothing companies based in New York City
- Clothing brands of the United States
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- 20th-century American businesswomen
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