Chaumet
| Company type | Subsidiary |
|---|---|
| Industry | Luxury goods, jewellery, watchmaking |
| Founded | 1 January 1780 in Paris, France |
| Founder | Marie-Étienne Nitot |
| Headquarters | Paris , France |
Area served | Worldwide |
Key people | Benoit Verhulle (foreman) |
| Products | Jewellery, watches |
Number of employees | 14 (artisans in workshop) |
| Parent | LVMH |
| Website | www |
Chaumet () is a prestigious French luxury brand specializing in jewellery and watch craftsmanship, headquartered in Paris. Established in 1780 by Marie-Étienne Nitot, the company focuses on exquisite jewellery and timepieces. Its workshop located on Place Vendôme employs fourteen skilled artisans under the supervision of foreman Benoit Verhulle. Since 1999, Chaumet has been integrated into the luxury division of LVMH.
Nitot Era (1780–1815)
Marie-Étienne Nitot (1750–1809) founded the firm in Paris after training with Aubert, jeweller to Queen Marie-Antoinette. His clientele primarily consisted of nobility until the upheaval of the 1789 French Revolution. The business thrived as the designated jeweller to Napoleon I starting in 1804.
Together with his son François Regnault (1779–1853), Nitot crafted jewellery for the First French Empire, including pieces commemorating Napoleon’s unions with Joséphine de Beauharnais and Marie Louise, Duchess of Parma. Significant creations include the Napoleon Diamond Necklace and the Marie Louise Diadem, marking the birth of Napoleon’s successor. Nitot also designed Napoleon’s coronation sword hilt along with other regal adornments.
Following Nitot’s death in 1809, François Regnault managed operations until 1815. After Napoleon’s exile and the Empire’s collapse, Nitot, a supporter of the monarchy, sold the enterprise to foreman Jean Baptiste Fossin (1786–1848).
Fossin and Morel Periods (1815–1885)
With assistance from his son Jules (1808–1869), Fossin produced romantic jewellery inspired by Italian Renaissance art, 18th-century French styles, and natural motifs. Their clientele included aristocrats such as Louis-Philippe’s family during his reign (1830–1848) and the Duchesse de Berry. Distinguished patrons also featured Russian prince Anatole Demidoff and Princess Mathilde Bonaparte, as well as notable figures from artistic and literary circles.
After the 1848 revolution in France led to decreased domestic activity, Fossin expanded by launching a London boutique with workshops managed by Jean-Valentin Morel (1794–1860) and his son Prosper. Their elite customers included Queen Victoria, who honored Morel with a royal warrant. At the 1851 London World's Fair, Morel revived enamelling techniques from the 16th and 17th centuries, creating hardstone goblets adorned with enamelled mounts.
Chaumet Art Deco Period (1885–1944)
In 1885, Joseph Chaumet (1852–1928) married Marie Morel, thereby acquiring leadership of the House. While continuing to draw upon Renaissance influences—particularly in tiara design—Chaumet incorporated elements inspired by Japanese art and Islamic architectural motifs.
Chaumet secured its permanent address at 12 Place Vendôme in 1907. Prior to fully embracing Art Deco aesthetics, the brand explored Art Nouveau themes featuring floral and naturalistic designs, producing imaginative creations such as bat-shaped aigrettes and elaborately carved hair combs.
Marcel Chaumet (1886–1964) took over from Joseph in 1928 during the height of Art Deco's popularity. The House showcased its work at the 1925 Exposition des Arts Décoratifs in Paris, establishing itself as a pioneer in geometric jewellery design. The style transitioned from the more 'boyish' forms of the 1920s to increasingly feminine silhouettes in the 1930s, highlighting vibrant colors, diverse materials, and precious stones.
From this period onward, Chaumet's influence grew within artistic and entertainment circles. In 1934, it supported emerging jeweller Pierre Sterlé. Although the House closed that year, it reopened following World War II.
Chaumet Era: Brand Revival (1944–1987)
Following the conclusion of World War II, Chaumet reestablished itself as an emblem of Parisian sophistication, aligning seamlessly with the 'New Look' fashion movement pioneered by designers such as Christian Dior and Yves Saint Laurent. In 1958, Marcel Chaumet’s sons, Jacques and Pierre, assumed executive leadership roles and broadened the company’s scope by acquiring the Breguet brand in 1970. Under the guidance of François Bodet, Breguet was strategically repositioned within the luxury watchmaking segment.
The 1970s marked a period of creative experimentation for Chaumet, characterized by innovative jewelry designs that combined unexpected materials like diamonds with coral and peridot set in yellow gold. The renowned Lien ring debuted in 1977 through René Morin’s design vision; this piece evolved over the years with diamond accents and variations in gold tones, ultimately leading to the launch of the 'Premiers Liens' collection in 2007.
Throughout the 1980s, artistic director René Morin introduced a variety of eclectic influences into Chaumet’s collections, including distinctive pieces such as a bull’s head sculpted from lapis lazuli. Despite artistic achievements, financial instability increased under the management of Jacques and Pierre Chaumet. The company filed for bankruptcy in 1987, burdened with debts amounting to 1.4 billion francs—eight times its yearly revenue—primarily due to losses within its diamond trading operations amid a global price downturn. Subsequently, the brothers were convicted on charges related to illegal banking practices involving high-interest accounts and received prison sentences that were later mitigated upon appeal.
Investcorp & LVMH Ownership (1987–Present)
Following its fraudulent bankruptcy declaration, Chaumet was acquired in 1987 by Investcorp, an investment bank based in Bahrain. Between 1995 and 1997, the company endured losses totaling 10 million francs but returned to profitability in 1998 with revenues reaching 280 million francs. In October 1999, ownership transferred to LVMH. After an unsuccessful attempt to penetrate the United States market during the late 1990s, Chaumet redirected its growth strategy toward Asia.
Within LVMH’s portfolio alongside brands like TAG Heuer, Zenith, FRED, Hublot, Montres Christian Dior, and De Beers Diamond Jewellers (a joint venture between LVMH and De Beers), Chaumet solidified its presence in China by 2006 with 24 boutiques established. Its core customer base remains predominantly Japanese and French, while China contributes approximately one-quarter of total sales.
On 9 June 2011, Chaumet earned certification from the Responsible Jewellery Council in acknowledgment of its adherence to ethical, social, and environmental standards. Having been a member since 2005, it became the RJC’s tenth certified company.
In fiscal years 2010/2011, Chaumet’s sales were estimated at €60 million, with watches accounting for half of this figure (€30 million). In January 2014, the brand introduced a "more accessible Liens range" of timepieces aimed at expanding its consumer reach.
Expertise and Craftsmanship
Chaumet consolidates its headquarters, design atelier, and Fine Jewellery workshop within its Place Vendôme premises, centralizing critical creative development and production processes.
Jewellery and High Jewellery
Chaumet manages every stage of design and manufacturing within its own ateliers. Once gold and gemstones are procured, a team of fourteen skilled artisans employs traditional techniques to shape, melt, polish, and set the creations conceived by the House’s designers. The movements used in Chaumet timepieces are produced in Switzerland.
Jacques Combes began his journey at Chaumet as an apprentice in 1969, rose to foreman by 1989, and was honored as a Chevalier of the Ordre des Arts et des Lettres in 2005. In 2011, Pascal Bourdariat took over as the twelfth master craftsman of the Maison.
Under the guidance of the master jeweler, six artisans meticulously craft all bespoke orders and exquisite jewellery collections. To uphold exceptional standards, Chaumet safeguards its traditional expertise, retaining wooden workbenches that have remained unchanged for two centuries.
A distinctive aspect of Chaumet’s process is the creation of nickel silver prototypes, allowing clients to visualize the piece’s form and dimensions prior to final fabrication.
The "12 Vendôme" series, unveiled at the 26th Biennale des Antiquaires in September 2012, draws its name from the boutique’s location at 12 place Vendôme. This set of twelve pieces, including four diadems, celebrates the evolving aesthetics of the House throughout its history.
Certain items in "12 Vendôme" feature transformable designs: for example, a long necklace can be extended by adding two bracelets, and an invisible mechanism enables detaching the aigrette from a diadem.
Watchmaking
Originally renowned for fine jewellery, Chaumet expanded into crafting luxurious watches during the 19th century. The Maison collaborated with Swiss horology leaders such as Jaeger-LeCoultre and Patek Philippe to create distinguished timepieces.
Among notable creations are the 1811 bracelet-watches commissioned by Eugène de Beauharnais, which integrated gold, pearls, and emeralds with complex watch mechanisms—pioneering miniature dials set within bracelets.
A recent development called "Complication Créative" incorporates Chaumet’s signature bee emblem alongside a spider that marks hours and minutes; this innovation was realized through partnerships with premier Swiss watchmakers.
In 2013, the "Montres Précieuses" collection debuted six models combining fine jewellery artistry with automatic mechanical movements, featuring embellishments such as diamonds, mother-of-pearl, miniature paintings, or engravings.
Liens
The Liens line centers on a link motif—lien meaning "link" in French—rooted in Chaumet’s archives from the Belle Époque. The initial "Liens" collection emerged in the 1970s with the introduction of the "Lien" ring: a band wrapped by a golden buckle designed in 1977.
Later iterations incorporated diamonds and white gold double bands. By the mid-1990s, the link shape evolved into a cross motif before transforming into a diamond pavé link in 2002. The 2007 "Premiers Liens" collection broadened this concept across yellow, white, and rose gold variations.
Joséphine
Launched in 2010, the Joséphine collection pays homage to Empress Joséphine—a prominent client and collector for Chaumet—and draws inspiration from her renowned headpieces such as diadems, tiaras, and aigrettes.
Bee my love
Inspired by the bee, a symbol closely associated with both Napoleon and Chaumet, the Bee my love collection embodies themes of romance. Its design incorporates settings resembling honeycomb cells, evoking beehives. The wedding bands in this series are designed to be stackable and come in yellow, white, and rose gold variants.
Attrape-moi
Introduced in 2007, the "Attrape-moi...si tu m'aimes" ("Catch me...if you love me") collection includes 18 pieces influenced by spiders and their webs, with bees also playing a role in the overall motif.
Additional collections
- Anneau
- Le Grand Frisson
- Class One
- Torsade
Class One
Launched in 1998, Class One holds the distinction of being the first diving watch designed as fine jewelry. The 2012 edition for women features two exclusive models adorned with diamonds paired with sapphires or rubies, along with eight designs showcasing black and white diamond combinations.
Dandy
The Dandy collection, introduced in 2003, caters to refined gentlemen inspired by art, fashion, and literature. Its hallmark includes vibrant stripes on the dial background, an automatic calibre visible through the case back. The 2012 Dandy Arty edition offers a striking black design accented with blue details.
Khesis
Named after the Navajo term for "sun," the Khesis watch debuted in 1995 as a cuff-style timepiece featuring rice-grain links. It merges a jewel-like appearance with a square dial, reflecting both sophistication and skilled craftsmanship.
Exhibitions
Chaumet frequently curates exhibitions to highlight its legacy alongside modern works. In 2017, it showcased Splendeurs Impériales (Imperial Splendors) at the Forbidden City in Beijing, presenting nearly 3,000 artifacts that illustrated an exchange between Chinese and French jewelry traditions.
In 2018, Les Mondes de Chaumet (Chaumet’s Worlds) was revealed in Tokyo, displaying creations from its archives while underscoring longstanding historical connections with Japan. The 2019 exhibition titled Chaumet en Majesté. Joyaux de souveraines depuis 1780 (Chaumet in Majesty. Jewels of sovereigns since 1780), curated by Stéphane Bern and Christophe Vachaudez, took place in Monaco.
In 2022, Chaumet presented Végétal - L'École de la beauté (Botanical - The School of Beauty) at the Beaux-Arts de Paris, exploring intersections between nature, jewelry design, and arts such as painting, drawing, and sculpture. The most recent exhibition, Un âge d'or (A Golden Age), held in 2023 at 12 place Vendôme, revisited two lesser-known decades of Chaumet’s creative evolution through 140 pieces inspired by punk, hippie, and disco cultures.
The Chaumet museum and collection
Since the 1970s, Chaumet has dedicated efforts to preserving and affirming the artistic and historical importance of its creations, culminating in the establishment of a museum in 1980 under Béatrice de Plinval’s leadership. The museum’s archives comprise around 200 jewelry items, nearly 19,800 original invoices, approximately 80,000 drawings, plus 2,500 diadems and replicas dating back to 1780. Although not accessible to the general public, this institution frequently organizes events and exhibitions that display its extensive collection.
"Paris, Two Centuries of Design"
Between 28 March and 28 June 1998, Chaumet held its inaugural exhibition at the Carnavalet Museum in Paris. Named "Paris, Two Centuries of Design," the showcase traced creations dating back to the time of Marie-Étienne Nitot, presenting jewellery alongside artworks such as paintings, photographs, and manuscripts.
"Napoleon in Love: Jewellery of the Empire, Eagles and the Heart"
In September 2004, to commemorate the 200th anniversary of Napoleon's coronation, Chaumet displayed jewellery pieces associated with Napoleon, Josephine, and Marie-Louise. The exhibition featured approximately one hundred items drawn from both the museum’s collection and external loans.
"Le Grand Frisson: Sentimental Jewellery from the Renaissance to Today"
From October to November 2008, Chaumet organized "Le Grand Frisson," an exhibition comprising 150 pieces focused on themes of love, friendship, and libertinism. These works were sourced from both the house’s collection and private lenders.
"Two Centuries of Watchmaking Design"
In July 2011, Chaumet celebrated the bicentennial of its initial watch bracelets crafted for Eugène de Beauharnais. To honor this occasion, the house presented an exhibition titled "Two Centuries of Watchmaking Design," featuring 30 timepieces alongside 300 design drawings.
Journées Particulières, 2011
During the 2011 Journées Particulières on 15 and 16 October, Chaumet opened its workshops, salons, and museum to visitors, exhibiting jewellery drawn from its archival collections.
Journées Particulières, 2013
For the event’s second edition on 15 and 16 June 2013, Chaumet welcomed the public into its historic headquarters and salons. The program included presentations on the maison’s heritage and products as well as live demonstrations by the head jeweller and artisans showcasing jewellery-making techniques.
Additional Projects
The IOC entrusted Chaumet with designing the Olympic medals for the 2024 Summer Olympics, each incorporating original iron sourced from the Eiffel Tower. Creative director Clémentine Massonnat described how this iron was crafted into a hexagonal shape symbolizing France, positioned at the medal’s core and encircled by radiating gold. However, in 2025, these medals encountered criticism due to rapid wear, leading over one hundred medalists to request replacements.
In 2020, Chaumet introduced its Virtuoso Conversations podcast, featuring interviews between representatives of Chaumet and artisans that offer insights into their craftsmanship.
Sustainability Efforts
Maison Chaumet actively participates in various environmental initiatives. It holds membership in the Responsible Jewellery Council, which establishes ethical, social, and environmental standards for the jewellery and watch sectors while certifying Chaumet’s responsible sourcing practices for gemstones.
As part of the LVMH group, Chaumet is also involved with the Life360 program aimed at biodiversity conservation and climate action through innovative circularity measures, biodiversity protection efforts, transparency initiatives, and a commitment to reduce its climate footprint by 55%.
Patronage and Philanthropy
In 2023, Chaumet inaugurated the Echo Culture Awards to honor women's initiatives that enhance cultural accessibility through masterclasses, educational efforts, and community solidarity projects. These awards aim to encourage young people’s participation in creative fields such as writing, theater, photography, and music. The initial panel was led by French actress Sandrine Kiberlain.
During the same year, Chaumet also launched Le Petit Mob', a collaborative sponsorship with Mobilier National designed to introduce children to the heritage of traditional craftsmanship.
Bibliography
- Chaumet: Master Jewellers since 1780, Diana Scarisbrick, Alain de Gourcuff Éditeur, Paris, 1995.
- Chaumet: Parisian Jeweler since 1780, Flammarion, Paris, 2017.
- Chaumet Tiaras: Divine Jewels, Clare Phillips and Natasha Fraser-Cavassoni, Thames & Hudson, London, 2020.
- The Soul of Jewellery, Flammarion, Paris, 2021.
- 12 Vendôme. La Maison Chaumet, Pierre Morio, Gallimard collection "Découvertes", Paris, 2022.
- The Spirit of Chaumet, Gabrielle de Montmorin, Thames & Hudson, London, 2023.