JoAnn Berman
JoAnn Berman | |
|---|---|
| Born | May 5, 1957 Manhattan, New York, U.S. |
| Occupation(s) | Fashion designer, furniture designer |
| Years active | 1970s–present |
| Known for | Upcycling, garment reconstruction, blue denim "prison" suits, early 1990s hip hop and reggaeton style influence |
JoAnn Berman (born May 5, 1957) is an American designer specializing in fashion and furniture, celebrated for her innovative upcycling and garment reconstruction techniques. She significantly influenced the early 1990s hip hop and reggaeton style, collaborating with notable figures such as Jodeci, P. Diddy, Heavy D, Proyecto Uno, and Michael Jackson. Often dubbed the "Queen of Reconstruction," Berman is especially known for her signature blue denim "prison" suits. In 2015, her work with Proyecto Uno was honored by inclusion in the permanent collection of the Smithsonian Institution’s American History Museum.
Early life and education
Raised in the Bronx after being born in Manhattan, New York, Berman began repurposing clothing at just seven years old. By age fifteen, she was assisting steel sculptor Richard Shore on welded public art installations. At seventeen, she relocated to San Francisco to pursue sculpture studies at The San Francisco Art Institute, concentrating on welded Cor-ten steel. During this period, she also designed apparel for groups like The San Francisco Mutants and singer Silke Berlinn. Additionally, she pursued liberal arts courses at Berkeley, where she attended Angela Davis's Women's Studies lectures.
In 1979, Berman returned to New York and became a keyboardist for the band Snatch after meeting English bassist Bruce Douglas. The couple married in London, where Berman worked at The Screen on The Hill Movie Theater and gained admission to Central St. Martin's College of Art and Design. While enrolled there, she gained experience working with designer Zhandra Rhodes and immersed herself in the punk fashion movement shaped by Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren.
Career
Amid the punk rock surge, Berman furthered her costume design career at Club 57 on St. Mark's Place in Manhattan’s East Village, collaborating with artists such as Keith Haring and Jean-Michel Basquiat. She crafted costumes for the musical "Boeing Boeing" and subsequently produced luxury bustiers retailed at Patricia Field's boutique in Greenwich Village. In 1988, she met Al Diaz—Basquiat’s SAMO partner—who became her common-law spouse for twelve years.
Back in the Lower East Side scene, Berman pioneered a "thug-gangsta" aesthetic tailored for rising hip hop artists, designing the iconic "Jail Suit" within her Rivington Street loft. These suits were marketed under "JoAnn Berman is BOIY KRAZI" at Patricia Field's store. Soon after, Puff Daddy (then P. Diddy) commissioned suits for acts like Jodeci and Heavy D; notably, four suits were worn by Heavy D in Michael Jackson’s 1992 "Jam" video—a pivotal moment that elevated Berman’s profile.
Following the success of "Jam," her creations featured prominently in major outlets including Paper Magazine, Italian Vogue, American Vogue, and The New York Times Style section. She continued designing wardrobe pieces for tours by Jodeci, Salt n' Pepa, Proyecto Uno, and produced costumes for Joe Public’s video "This One is For You." A significant journey to Mexico deeply shaped her design vision. Upon returning to New York amid personal difficulties, she decided to close BOIY KRAZI.
After separating from Diaz in 1998, Berman taught in East Harlem while running a studio on 3rd Avenue near 119th Street. Inspired by Mexican culture and East Harlem's urban vibe, she partnered with Brazilian actor Fabio Anzolin Borges to create designs influenced by Afro-Brazilian traditions. In 2007, she launched her first retail location—BOIY KRAZI—on 112th Street; during this time Rihanna was among her early patrons amid her hit "Umbrella" phase.
Shortly thereafter, the store was destroyed by arson. Berman then moved to Brooklyn and married Leonel Logrono, a Dominican specialist in sewing machine repair. In early 2008, she opened BOIY KRAZI'S GROOVI GARDENS in Williamsburg and later established Thug Mama there in 2011.
Furniture
Prior to the 2007 fire, Berman initiated a creative process of transforming vintage textiles into unique furniture pieces by reupholstering antique frames with her custom-printed fabrics—an artistic pursuit that preceded her ventures in fashion design.
After relocating to Bushwick in 2008, she resumed her fashion career, quickly establishing herself as a prominent designer at The Green Shows during New York Fashion Week. In 2011, she was recognized as a Semi-Finalist for the Ecco-Domini Sustainable Clothing award. Additionally, she earned Breakout Designer accolades from both Time Out Magazine and WWD. Berman maintained hands-on control over sewing, fabric printing, and pattern making, and was the winner of Lifetime Television’s "A 24 Hr. Catwalk."
Feeling constrained by the fashion industry's limitations on her one-of-a-kind reconstructed wearable art, Berman redirected her creative energy exclusively toward furniture design. Her upcycled Chrome chair gained attention in NY Magazine's The Cut in 2013, followed by a feature on the cover of New York Cottages and Gardens in April 2014 showcasing her distinctive mini rock-star armchairs.