Maison Margiela

Maison Margiela

Company type	Private
Industry	Fashion
Predecessor	Maison Martin Margiela
Founded	1988 (1988)
Founder	Martin Margiela, Jenny Meirens
Headquarters	Paris , France
Area served	Worldwide
Key people	Glenn Martens (Creative Director), John Galliano (former Creative Director), Martin Margiela (founder)
Products	Womenswear, menswear, jewellery, footwear, accessories, leather goods, fragrances, homeware
Owner	OTB Group
Parent	OTB Group
Website	www.maisonmargiela.com

Maison Margiela (), initially known as Maison Martin Margiela, is a prestigious French luxury fashion brand established in 1988 by Belgian designer Martin Margiela alongside Jenny Meirens, with its headquarters located in Paris. The label presents both artisanal collections inspired by haute couture and ready-to-wear lines, where the former significantly shapes the latter. Its product range encompasses womenswear, menswear, jewellery, footwear, accessories, leather goods, fragrances, and homeware. Recognized for its avant-garde aesthetic and deconstructivist approach employing unconventional materials, Maison Margiela frequently opts for unique settings such as deserted metro stations or street corners to host its runway shows. Models often have their faces concealed to direct attention solely to the garments and their craftsmanship. After Martin Margiela stepped down as creative director in 2009, John Galliano took over in 2014 and remained until 2024. The current creative director is Glenn Martens.

Founding and initial phase

In 1988, Belgian designer Martin Margiela, an alumnus of the Royal Academy of Antwerp, founded Maison Margiela. Although commonly associated with the Antwerp Six, Margiela’s distinctive deconstructive style was developed independently, drawing inspiration from Japanese avant-garde designers such as Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons. During the 1980s, while freelancing in Milan, his work revealed garment structures by exposing linings and seams. Between 1984 and 1987, he served as design assistant to Jean Paul Gaultier in Paris.

Together with business partner Jenny Meirens, Margiela launched Maison Martin Margiela in 1988. They began operations from a Parisian apartment before opening their first unbranded boutique in Paris and establishing a modest studio in Antwerp. The label rapidly became known for its deconstructed style, which New York Magazine described as having a "vaguely Dadaist" quality that challenged prevailing conventions in fashion and luxury. Vogue highlighted that these initial creations "elicited shock and fascination" within the fashion community. The brand’s garments were marked by simple white labels affixed with four white stitches, and product categories were designated by numbers instead of sequential order.

Initial presentations and deliberate anonymity

Maison Martin Margiela’s womenswear debut occurred at Paris Fashion Week in 1988 for the spring 1989 season. Characterized by New York Magazine as "more akin to art happenings than the thematic and operatic spectacles typical of ’80s Paris fashion," these early shows set the tone for the brand. The label notably refused public appearances or taking bows after presentations, opting instead to communicate through fax exclusively, with interviews conducted collectively by the design team and signed using "we." This choice to maintain anonymity—often perceived as a marketing tactic—was intended to place emphasis on the designs rather than the designers themselves. The New York Times dubbed Margiela fashion’s "invisible man" in 2008, highlighting his stark contrast to the celebrity-focused nature of the fashion industry.

Acquisition by OTB

By 1994, The New York Times recognized Maison Martin Margiela's role in challenging the ostentatious fashion trends of the 1980s. That same year, the brand introduced its initial period-inspired pieces. In 1998, it expanded its offerings by launching a menswear collection known as line 10. Between 1997 and 2003, Maison Martin Margiela was responsible for directing womenswear creativity at the prestigious French luxury brand Hermès, working closely with chairman Jean-Louis Dumas.

In 2002, the OTB Group, under the leadership of Renzo Rosso—the proprietor of Diesel—acquired Maison Martin Margiela. By December 2004, the label moved into a refurbished eighteenth-century convent located in Paris' 11th arrondissement. The interior design featured an entirely white palette, including furniture, symbolizing both the brand’s heritage and philosophy. Staff members donned traditional white "blouse blanche" coats to promote equality across all positions. The house unveiled its inaugural haute couture collection in 2006, and by mid-2008, it operated 14 boutiques worldwide.

Anonymous Creative Team, 2009–2014

In October 2009, Martin Margiela stepped down as creative director of his eponymous label, sparking speculation about his departure. Following this change, an anonymous design collective took over creative responsibilities without appointing a single director. It was later revealed that Demna Gvasalia—who would go on to lead Balenciaga—joined the womenswear division shortly after but remained uncredited. CEO Giovanni Pungetti stressed the importance of preserving the brand’s avant-garde and provocative spirit despite the absence of a named creative head.

During this period, the company broadened its scope by expanding into homewares and interior design in 2010 and created conceptual hotel suites for La Maison Champs-Élysées in Paris in 2011.

In 2012, Maison Margiela collaborated with H&M on a capsule collection that revisited archival designs.

By autumn 2014, the brand reported annual revenues near $126 million and operated approximately 50 stores under direct ownership.

John Galliano Era, 2014–2024

John Galliano was named creative director in October 2014 after notable stints at Givenchy, Dior, and his own label. The brand entrusted Galliano with full creative freedom under the directive to "make it your own." His first collection for Maison Margiela debuted in January 2015 to widespread acclaim. Concurrently, the brand underwent rebranding from "Maison Martin Margiela" to simply "Maison Margiela," marking a new chapter for the house. With Galliano emphasizing haute couture, revenues grew by 30% by the close of 2015.

In 2017, Maison Margiela partnered with outerwear expert Mackintosh to create two exclusive trench coats for the spring 2018 menswear line, including a distinctive white model.

Glenn Martens, 2025–Present

Glenn Martens took over as creative director in January 2025, succeeding John Galliano after a decade-long tenure and becoming the third individual to hold this role at the house. Since 2020, Martens has also been serving as creative director at Diesel, another brand within the OTB Group portfolio. Before joining Diesel, he worked as first assistant to Y/Project founder Yohan Serfaty and assumed leadership of that label following Serfaty’s passing in 2013.

Timeline

• Martin Margiela – 1988 until October 2009
• Anonymous – October 2009 through October 2014
• John Galliano – October 2014 to December 2024
• Glenn Martens – January 2025 to present

Stores

Prior to its acquisition by OTB Group in 2002, Margiela’s retail locations were intentionally low-profile, lacking external branding or public directories. By mid-2008, the brand had established 14 boutiques worldwide, with rapid expansion into Dubai, Hong Kong, Moscow, and Munich within just six months. In late 2009, a temporary pop-up store was launched at the Art Basel Miami Beach art exhibition. By 2010, Maison Margiela operated 17 independent stores alongside 21 international "shop-in-shop" locations. As of 2017, the brand sustained a presence in major markets including France, the United Kingdom, Belgium, China, Germany, Hong Kong, Italy, Japan, South Korea, Taiwan, the United States, and Thailand. In February 2025, Maison Margiela inaugurated its inaugural concession store in Mexico, situated within the Palacio de Hierro department store in Mexico City.

Maison Margiela Numbers

Maison Margiela classifies its product categories using a numbering system ranging from 0 to 23. Each garment label features a circled number that identifies its specific collection, a distinctive branding approach introduced in 1997.

Significant numbers include:

1. 0 – Artisanal pieces
2. 1 – Women’s Collection (since 1988)
3. 3 – Fragrances (since 2010)
4. 4 – Women’s wardrobe (since Spring-Summer 2004)
5. 6 – MM6 line
6. 8 – Eyewear (since Spring-Summer 2008)
7. 10 – Men’s Collection (since Spring-Summer 1999)
8. 11 – Accessories (since 2005)
9. 12 – Fine jewelry (since 2008)
10. 13 – Objects and publications
11. 14 – Men’s wardrobe (since Spring-Summer 2004)
12. 15 – Margiela x 3 Suisses collaboration (since 1999)
13. 20 – Used during the anonymous creative director era from 2009–2014
14. 22 – Footwear for women (since 1998), men (since 2008), and Replica line (since 1994)

Several numbers remain unused, underscoring the label's targeted emphasis on select product categories. This numerical system strengthens Maison Margiela’s unique market identity and product segmentation.

Other activities

Maison Margiela produces both artisanal and ready-to-wear collections, with the former often serving as inspiration for the latter. The brand is widely recognized for its deconstructivist design approach, characterized by visible seams, exaggerated proportions, and garment upcycling. Techniques also include repurposing traditional linings as outer fabrics and integrating unconventional materials such as plastic shopping bags, wire hangers, vintage upholstery textiles from the 1970s, leather gloves, and even jewelry crafted from colored ice that imparts dye as it melts.

In 1994, Maison Margiela introduced its first period pieces—faithful reproductions—after initially creating collections solely from archival materials. The menswear line, known as line 10, debuted in 1998.

From 1997 to 2003, Martin Margiela held the role of creative director for Hermès womenswear. The Maison Margiela design team presented these collections twice yearly at Hermès’ rue St-Honoré boutique. These offerings were described as "understated," featuring loose masculine tailoring alongside black crêpe evening gowns. New York Magazine referred to them as "quiet explorations of luxury," emphasizing classic garments with subtle yet expert reinterpretations.

Diffusion line

Established in 1997, MM6 serves as a diffusion line aimed at the modern fashion consumer, offering a contrast to the avant-garde essence of Maison Margiela's primary collection. As of 2023, MM6 continues to unveil its runway presentations during Milan Fashion Week.

Footwear

The iconic Tabi boot, inspired by the traditional Japanese split-toe sock, was first introduced in 1989 and officially launched in 1992. In 2013, Maison Margiela collaborated with Converse to create distinctive shoe designs.

Accessories

In November 2008, Maison Margiela introduced a collection featuring jewelry and eyewear, including uniquely designed sunglasses characterized as "an impenetrable black band encircling the face." The brand has also partnered with G-Shock for watches and teamed up with Swarovski in 2013 to produce ready-to-wear jewelry.

Fragrances

Maison Margiela released its inaugural fragrance in partnership with L’Oreal in 2009. The Mutiny scent debuted in 2018 after six years of development by perfumer Dominique Ropion, embodying Galliano’s creative vision. Ambassadors such as Willow Smith and Teddy Quinlivan highlight the fragrance’s inclusive spirit. In 2024, the Replica fragrance collection expanded to include new notes inspired by vegetable gardens.

Live shows

Maison Margiela has built a reputation for presenting collections in unconventional environments. The New York Times described these shows as "alternately electrifying or humorous or sexy or just plain weird." Early runway events were regarded as "radically personal and humanistic expressions about clothes" during an era when fashion seemed detached from everyday life. The brand often obscures models’ faces with hoods, hair, or fabric to draw focus solely on the garments.

In 1989, Margiela held a show on a Paris playground featuring spontaneous interactions between models and local children. While critical response was mixed, it garnered respect within the industry. The spring 1992 collection was showcased in an abandoned Paris metro station where models descended candlelit stairways. Other distinctive venues included warehouses, historic townhouses, and decommissioned subway cars.

Though generally steering clear of celebrity models, the spring 1993 show included prominent figures such as Cecilia Chancellor and Kate Moss. That year also featured a presentation where models moved through a brass band. In 1994, the collection was inspired by Barbie’s wardrobe at full scale. Later shows involved models seated among spectators (1995) and a 1997 event where models and a Belgian brass band disembarked from a Routemaster bus to display the collection. During 1998, Margiela experimented with marionettes instead of live models across two seasons.

Maison Martin Margiela unveiled its first haute couture collection in Paris in May 2006. The label marked its twentieth anniversary in September 2008 with a show that included inventive pieces such as coats crafted from synthetic wigs and mirrored tights resembling disco balls. In 2013, Margiela was responsible for designing Kanye West’s wardrobe for his Yeezus tour.

The spring 2014 runway combined pioneer-inspired floral dresses with edgier elements like nude bodysuits and oversized sunglasses. Early 2015 saw John Galliano present his initial two collections as creative director, featuring neon accessories, Mary-Jane shoes, faux-fur slippers, short skirts, long coats, and patent leather finishes. Galliano continued the house tradition of refraining from post-show bows despite attending the events. The July 2016 collection showcased military coats, parachute-style dresses, neon face paint, and garments reminiscent of the nineteenth century. In September 2016, Maison Margiela collaborated with Barneys New York on fall window displays reflecting recent artisan work and ready-to-wear lines.

The spring-summer 2024 couture show received widespread acclaim for drawing inspiration from Hungarian-French photographer Brassaï and focusing on Paris’s nocturnal atmosphere through corsetry, beadwork, and silhouettes evoking the 1930s. Galliano worked alongside makeup artist Pat McGrath to create a moonlit porcelain doll look for the models, which was subsequently launched as a cosmetic collection. The show closed with Gwendoline Christie wearing a white latex dress among several mid- and plus-size models. WWD hailed this collection as historically significant for introducing new techniques that re-centered couture on its origins in research and innovation.

Retrospectives and Exhibitions

The Fashion Museum Province of Antwerp (MoMu) organized a comprehensive retrospective of the brand's creations in 2008, which was subsequently relocated to Somerset House in London for a 2010 presentation. In 2017, MoMu featured an exhibition highlighting the twelve collections developed during Margiela’s tenure as he collaborated with Hermès under the appointment of Jean-Louis Dumas.

Documentaries

In early 2015, filmmaker Alison Chernick unveiled The Artist is Absent, a concise biographical film about Martin Margiela that debuted at the Tribeca Film Festival. Later, in October 2017, director Menna Laura Meijer released We Margiela through the Dutch production company Mint Film Office, delving into the fashion house’s origins with interviews from founding team members, including co-founder Jenny Meirens.

November 2019 saw the premiere of Martin Margiela: In His Own Words, directed by Reiner Holzemer and co-produced with Aminata. The documentary, lauded by Hollywood Reporter as “the definitive exploration of this enigmatic and technically adept designer,” uncovers Margiela’s motivations for retreating from the public eye and his inclination to focus solely on design rather than assume a creative director role. True to his media persona, only Margiela’s hands are shown on screen.

See also

• List of grands couturiers