Myrtle Allen

Myrtle Allen
Born	(1924-03-13) March 13, 1924 Cork, Ireland
Died	June 13, 2018(2018-06-13) (aged 94)
Occupation(s)	Chef, author, hotel proprietor, educator
Known for	Michelin-starred chef, co-manager of The Yeats Room at Ballymaloe House

Myrtle Allen (13 March 1924 – 13 June 2018) was an esteemed Irish chef who earned a Michelin star and co-managed The Yeats Room at Ballymaloe House in Shanagarry, County Cork. In addition to her culinary accomplishments, she was also an author, hotel proprietor, and educator.

Personal life

Born Myrtle Hill, she hailed from a distinguished lineage of Cork architects, including her father Henry Houghton Hill and her great-grandfather Henry Hill. She practiced the faith of the Religious Society of Friends (Quakers).

In 1943, she wed Ivan Allen, who cultivated vegetables on the Kinoith farm in Shanagarry. Four years later, in 1947, the couple acquired Ballymaloe House along with its adjoining farmland. While Ivan oversaw the cultivation of fruits and vegetables, Myrtle managed the household and raised their six children. Ivan came into possession of Kinoith in 1958 following an inheritance.

Benefiting from the fresh farm produce available through her husband’s operations, Myrtle honed her cooking expertise via formal courses and independent learning. By 1962, she had become the cookery correspondent for the Irish Farmers Journal, initially a publication affiliated with Macra na Feirme. She actively participated in Macra na Feirme, holding the position of vice president for Munster in 1959 and later campaigning for its presidency in 1963, albeit unsuccessfully.

Myrtle remained married to Ivan until his passing in 1998. She died at age 94 due to pneumonia on 13 June 2018 at Cork University Hospital.

Culinary career

In 1964, Myrtle launched a restaurant within her own dining room named The Yeats Room, inspired by the Jack Yeats artworks owned by the Allen family. Her innovative approach prioritized sourcing local artisanal ingredients and frequently changing the menu to reflect seasonal availability—an approach that was groundbreaking at the time. She characterized her culinary philosophy as "local, seasonal, organic, flavoursome, sustainable and superbly cooked food." Subsequently, unused rooms were transformed into guest lodgings, which eventually developed into the Ballymaloe hotel. During the 1960s, she and sous-chef Darina O'Connell began conducting cooking classes. Darina, who married Myrtle’s son Tim Allen, later moved these sessions to Kinoith under the banner of Ballymaloe Cookery School.

In 1986, Myrtle Allen co-established Euro-toques International and founded Euro-toques Ireland—organizations committed to safeguarding Europe’s gastronomic heritage and championing quality local produce. She held the presidency of Euro-toques International from 1994 until 1997.

A documentary titled Myrtle Allen: A Life in Food aired on RTÉ Television in 2013, showcasing her significant contributions to Irish culinary traditions.

Legacy

Myrtle Allen is celebrated as the "distinguished matriarch of Modern Irish cuisine," regarded as a "leading figure in contemporary Irish cooking," and has been likened to Alice Waters for her influential role in American gastronomy.

Awards

• 1975–1980: awarded one Michelin star
• 1975–1981, 1983–1984, 1987–1988: one star in the Egon Ronay Guide
• 1981–1994: recipient of Red M distinction by the Michelin Guide
• 1984: Cesar Award from the Good Hotel Guide
• 1988: Ballymaloe House included in Courvoisier's collection of premier hotels
• 1990: honored with Ackerman Martell Guide's black four-leaved clover for excellence in hospitality
• 1991: featured among Harpers and Queen's 'The One Hundred Best Hotels in the World'
• 2000: conferred Honorary Doctor of Laws degree by University College Cork
• 2011: received Taste Icon award at Taste of Dublin
• 2011: Lifetime Achievement Award at Women and Agriculture Awards
• 2014: Lifetime Achievement Award bestowed by the Irish Food Writers' Guild

Books

• The Ballymaloe Cookbook; published in 1984
• Myrtle Allen's Cooking at Ballymaloe House; released in 1990

External links

• Official Ballymaloe House website