Opening Ceremony (brand)
| Company type | Private |
|---|---|
| Industry | Fashion |
| Founded | 2002 in New York City, United States |
| Founder | Carol Lim, Humberto Leon |
| Defunct | 2020 |
| Fate | Acquired by New Guards Group; closed all physical stores |
| Headquarters | New York City , United States |
Area served | Worldwide |
Key people | Carol Lim, Humberto Leon |
| Products | Apparel, fashion retail |
| Parent | New Guards Group (since 2020) |
Opening Ceremony is a fashion label established in 2002 by Carol Lim and Humberto Leon. The company not only creates and manufactures its own merchandise but also serves as a retailer for emerging designers, having been among the first to stock brands like Havaianas, Topshop, Alexander Wang, Comme Des Garcons, Proenza Schouler, and Rodarte. The founders envisioned a retail environment where luxury shoppers could also find affordable items such as t-shirts, socks, and art pieces all under one roof.
Amid the COVID-19 pandemic, the brand declared it would shutter all its brick-and-mortar locations. By 2020, Opening Ceremony became part of the portfolio of New Guards Group.
History
Carol Lim introduced Opening Ceremony in New York City in September 2002. In 2013, the Tokyo outlet located in Shibuya was recognized by Complex as the world’s fourth-best retail store.
The brand has partnered with influential creatives including Spike Jonze, Terence Koh, Yoko Ono, Justin Peck, Chloë Sevigny, and the New York City Ballet.
On January 13, 2020, ownership of the company transferred to New Guards Group, known for managing brands like Off-White and other streetwear labels. The next day, Lim and Leon announced intentions to close all retail stores within that year.
Ready-to-wear Spring 2016 collection
In 2015, Opening Ceremony unveiled its Spring 2016 Ready-to-wear line in a garden setting that replaced the conventional runway format. Models performed movements involving falling and rising, choreographed by Justin Peck, who serves as the resident choreographer for the New York City Ballet.
This collection drew inspiration from ballet, architectural forms, and global travel, featuring Asian bonsai embroidery, African fabrics, khaki cargo pants and dresses, along with structural designs influenced by Moorish arches.
Ready-to-wear refers to standardized apparel produced for immediate purchase without requiring custom tailoring, unlike made-to-measure garments.
Fall 2017 collection
The Fall 2017 presentation incorporated an original dance narrative portraying a romantic relationship’s progression, directed by Humberto Leon’s associate Spike Jonze and choreographed by Ryan Heffington. Models clad in Opening Ceremony’s Fall designs led spectators through the emotional journey of monogamy. The wardrobe evolved alongside the story—from formal black-and-white attire symbolizing early romance to loose-fitting conservative garments representing emotional challenges.
Typically showcased internationally during February and March, Fall collections emphasize Autumn and Winter clothing such as coats and knitwear.
Spring 2018 collection
Held after regular hours in Disneyland’s Toontown, the Spring 2018 line honored Mickey Mouse’s 90th anniversary through a collaboration with Disney. Designers Lim and Leon introduced celebratory knitwear, sporty graphics, prairie-style dresses, and carpenter pants adorned with oversized Mickey motifs. The event featured a marching band and appearances by Mickey and Minnie Mouse on the runway.
Spring 2019 Collection
The Spring 2019 presentation by Opening Ceremony, titled The Gift of Showz, took place at Le Poisson Rouge and was a dynamic drag performance featuring well-known drag artists such as Sasha Velour and Shea Couleé. The finale included a performance by Christina Aguilera alongside other entertainers, underscoring the brand’s dedication to embracing a spectrum of gender identities and sexual orientations.
Inspired by their travels, designers Leon and Lim crafted a lineup that combined airy summer dresses and striking floral patterns with sleek all-black ensembles. Typically unveiled in September, the spring collection encompasses dresses, skirts, and shorts.
From 2020 Onward
In 2020, the New Guards Group, an online retail entity affiliated with Farfetch, acquired Opening Ceremony, taking over its operations. After nearly two decades in the retail space, the brand shuttered all of its physical boutiques worldwide, largely influenced by changing consumer preferences and new shopping trends.
Asian Cultural Influence
For their February 2019 fashion lookbook, co-founders Leon and Lim paid tribute to their Asian roots by showcasing Asian-American trailblazers from various fields. The campaign featured notable personalities such as musician Ryuichi Sakamoto, chef Angela Dimayuga, and designer Anna Sui, highlighting the founders' journey as minority entrepreneurs.
Collaborations
Opening Ceremony’s inaugural co-branded venture occurred in 2010 with French luxury label Maison Margiela: a white Bic pen adorned with Margiela’s distinctive branding and feather motif. This partnership expanded in 2011 to include a womenswear collection under Margiela’s MM6 line.
In 2017, the brand collaborated with the New York City Ballet to outfit dancers in casual apparel for the ballet production The Times Are Racing, merging classical ballet precision with urban streetwear aesthetics.
That same year, Opening Ceremony joined forces with Esprit to create a collection centered on themes of family and togetherness, featuring children of influential figures like Kim Gordon and Mario Sorrenti as models.
During New York Design Week in 2018, Opening Ceremony partnered with Moscow-based Crosby Studios to design monochrome royal purple furniture pieces that combined modern design principles with whimsical elements.
Kenzo Creative Directors
In 2011, Lim was appointed creative director of Kenzo, a brand under the global conglomerate LVMH.
After collaborating with several fashion houses, Leon and Lim aimed to exert greater influence over one brand’s direction. Despite initial setbacks, Kenzo embraced their comprehensive proposal detailing aesthetic shifts, revamped store layouts, and refreshed marketing strategies. This vision earned them their positions as Kenzo’s creative directors.
Leon and Lim departed from their co-creative director roles at Kenzo in 2019; their final presentation occurred on June 23 for the label’s Spring 2020 collection.
In Popular Culture
Actor Jonah Hill authored the one-act play Lost Cotton for Opening Ceremony’s Spring 2015 line. In 2017, director Spike Jonze helmed "Changers," a dance piece starring Lakeith Stanfield and Mia Wasikowska at La MaMa Experimental Theatre Club.
In 2016, musician Drake donned bright orange hoodie and sweatpants from the Opening Ceremony x Esprit collaboration.
Artists such as Troye Sivan and Nicki Minaj were among the LGBTQIA+ models attending the brand’s drag-inspired Spring 2019 runway event.
Barbadian singer Rihanna sported Opening Ceremony attire on her album cover for Talk That Talk (2011).
American singer Omarion appeared wearing an Opening Ceremony varsity jacket in his "Post to Be" music video (2014).
The all-female American rock band The Linda Lindas featured Opening Ceremony clothing on the back cover of their album Growing Up (2022).