Vionnet (company)
| Company type | Private |
|---|---|
| Industry | Fashion |
| Founded | 1912 |
| Founder | Madeleine Vionnet |
| Defunct | 1939 (original closure) |
| Fate | Ceased operations in 1939; revived mid-1990s; acquired by ChimHaeres in 2023 |
| Headquarters | Paris (original), Milan (later period) , France, Italy |
Area served | Worldwide |
Key people | Madeleine Vionnet (founder), Guy and Arnaud de Lummen (revival), Goga Ashkenazi (owner 2012–2022), ChimHaeres Investments (owner since 2023) |
| Products | Haute couture, ready-to-wear, perfumes, accessories |
Number of employees | 1200 (circa 1932) |
| Parent | ChimHaeres Investments (since 2023) |
| Website | vionnet |
Vionnet is a prestigious haute couture brand established by French designer Madeleine Vionnet in 1912. The fashion house ceased operations in 1939 but was revived during the mid-1990s by Guy and Arnaud de Lummen, initially concentrating on perfumes and accessories before introducing ready-to-wear lines in 2006. In 2012, the label was acquired by Kazakh entrepreneur Goga Ashkenazi, with Chimhaeres Investments taking ownership in 2023.
1912 to 1914
The Vionnet fashion house commenced operations in 1912 at 222, Rue de Rivoli, with financial backing comprising one-third from Madeleine Vionnet herself and the remainder from client Germaine Lilas. The business halted activities in 1914 due to the onset of World War I.
1919 to 1940
When it reopened in 1919, Argentinian investor Mr. Martinez de Hoz joined as a principal shareholder alongside Mr. Lillas. The futurist artist Thayaht contributed by designing Vionnet’s logo as well as textiles, garments, and jewelry.
In 1922, Théophile Bader, proprietor of Galeries Lafayette, acquired a majority stake in Vionnet & Cie. By April 1923, the house inaugurated new premises at 50, Avenue Montaigne—dubbed the "Temple of Fashion"—which included a Salon de Présentation and boutiques crafted by architect Ferdinand Chanut and colleagues. That same year, Vionnet was instrumental in founding the first anticopyist association, introduced fingerprinted labels to guarantee garment authenticity, and secured a distribution partnership with New York’s Charles & Ray Ladies' Tailors.
From 1924 to 1937, Boris Lacroix acted as art director, overseeing design elements such as furniture, logos, textiles, handbags, accessories, and perfume development.
During the mid-1920s, Vionnet pursued significant expansion into the American market. In 1924, it entered an exclusive production and distribution agreement with Fifth Avenue retailer Hickson Inc., launching a New York salon showcasing exclusive gowns. By 1925, Vionnet became the pioneer among French couture houses to establish a New York subsidiary at 661 Fifth Avenue, offering adjustable 'one-size-fits-all' designs alongside ready-to-wear collections branded "Repeated Original," arguably laying groundwork for Parisian prêt-à-porter.
Domestically in France, Vionnet opened a salon at Biarritz’s Grand Casino and introduced its inaugural limited-edition perfume series featuring four fragrances ('A', 'B', 'C', 'D') with bottles designed by Boris Lacroix and scents developed in collaboration with Coty.
In 1927, an apprenticeship school dedicated to bias-cut garment techniques was founded by Vionnet. By 1929, she spearheaded the creation of a renewed anticopyist association (P.A.I.S.), managed by director Armand Trouyet.
By 1932, the house expanded into a five-story facility at 50 Avenue Montaigne that accommodated workshops, a medical clinic staffed with professionals, and a gymnasium. Employing approximately 1,200 seamstresses at this time, Vionnet ranked among Paris’s foremost fashion establishments during the 1930s. Despite restructuring efforts prompted by World War II challenges, the house ultimately shuttered following Madeleine Vionnet’s final collection presentation on August 2, 1939.
Dormant Period
In 1952, years after closing her fashion house, Madeleine Vionnet donated the majority of her creations to the UFAC archives (now integrated into the Musée de la Mode et du Textile in Paris), including around 120 dresses dating from 1921 through 1939.
The Vionnet brand was acquired by the Lummen family in 1988. They adopted a discreet approach by refraining from launching new fashion collections and instead concentrated on accessories and fragrances, debuting "Madeleine Vionnet" in 1996 followed by "MV" in 1998.
2006–2008 - The Lummen Period
In July 2006, Arnaud de Lummen, serving as CEO, declared the brand's reentry into the fashion industry, emphasizing a distinctive strategy that embodied Vionnet’s original vision instead of a mere reestablishment. At that time, rising talent Sophia Kokosalaki was appointed as Creative Director. The Spring/Summer 2007 collection marked Vionnet’s first clothing launch in nearly seven decades.
This inaugural collection was highlighted in the December 2006 issue of the US edition of Vogue and was exclusively retailed at Vionnet’s Paris atelier and Barneys New York. Kokosalaki created one additional collection prior to Marc Audibet taking over in May 2007.
Marc Audibet, acting as artistic advisor, unveiled his only collection in October 2007, receiving acclaim for authentically capturing the spirit of Madeleine Vionnet’s legacy.
Starting in 2008, Vionnet collaborated with anonymous designers to shift focus from individual recognition to brand development. To facilitate expansion, de Lummen pursued investment partners; eventually, Matteo Marzotto became a key investor. After steering Vionnet’s comeback, de Lummen concentrated on revitalizing dormant luxury brands through Luvanis, initiating projects for Moynat, Paul Poiret, and Mainbocher.
During the 2006 to 2008 period, Vionnet operated out of 21 Place Vendôme, a location previously occupied by Louise Chéruit and Elsa Schiaparelli. The house produced "demi-couture" collections made in France that closely paralleled haute couture in terms of pricing, craftsmanship, and materials, collaborating with heritage artisans such as the embroidery specialist Maison Lesage.
2009–2011 - The Marzotto Period
On February 24, 2009, Matteo Marzotto purchased the Vionnet brand and established an independent base in Milan. Marzotto, formerly General Manager and President of Valentino SpA and heir to the historic Marzotto family enterprise, provided strategic leadership alongside Gianni Castiglioni, CEO of Marni.
Rodolfo Paglialunga, previously affiliated with Prada, assumed the role of creative director and debuted his first collection in October 2009. In September 2011, twin sisters Barbara and Lucia Croce succeeded him as creative directors.
By December 2011, Vionnet inaugurated its first directly owned boutique in Milan.
Under Marzotto’s guidance, the label dressed numerous prominent celebrities including Zoe Saldana, Diane Kruger, Madonna, Natalie Portman, Carey Mulligan, Emma Watson, and Cameron Diaz.
2012–2022 - The Ashkenazi Period
In May 2012, Kazakh-Russian entrepreneur Goga Ashkenazi acquired a majority stake in Vionnet, gaining complete ownership by November of the same year.
Ashkenazi replaced the Croce sisters as creative director in August 2012. Two months later, she commemorated the brand’s centennial with a demi-couture collection paying tribute to its iconic designs.
In January 2014, Vionnet appointed designer Hussein Chalayan to oversee its demi-couture line; his debut show took place on January 21 alongside an advertising campaign photographed by Jean-Paul Goude.
In October 2018, the company entered voluntary liquidation as part of a restructuring process aimed at fully embracing sustainability commitments.
The ChimHaeres Period Beginning in 2023
In April 2023, ChimHaeres—a collaborative enterprise formed by Chimera Abu Dhabi and Haeres Capital—completed the acquisition of Vionnet, initiating a fresh chapter in the brand’s approach to luxury fashion.
External links
- VIONNET.com Official website