Yves Saint Laurent (designer)

Yves Saint Laurent
Yves Saint Laurent
Born	Yves Henri Donat Mathieu-Saint-Laurent; Template:Birth date; Oran, Algeria
Died	June 1, 2008 (aged 71)
Occupation	Fashion designer
Known for	Founder of Yves Saint Laurent brand; pioneering women's tuxedo suit "Le Smoking"; influential 20th-century fashion creator

Yves Henri Donat Mathieu-Saint-Laurent (1 August 1936 – 1 June 2008), widely recognized as Yves Saint Laurent or simply YSL, was a prominent French fashion designer who established his namesake brand in 1962. He is considered among the most influential fashion creators of the twentieth century.

Saint Laurent transformed women's apparel by merging sophistication with practicality. He pioneered the legendary women's tuxedo suit known as "Le Smoking" and was distinguished for integrating elements from non-Western cultures as well as featuring models of varied ethnic backgrounds. In 1985, historian Caroline Milbank praised him as "the most consistently celebrated and influential designer of the past twenty-five years," acknowledging his role in rejuvenating haute couture during the 1960s and validating the ready-to-wear market.

Early life

Born on 1 August 1936 in Oran, Algeria, to French parents Charles and Lucienne Andrée Mathieu-Saint-Laurent, Saint Laurent spent his childhood in a Mediterranean villa alongside his two sisters. By his early teenage years, he was already creating dress designs for his family.

Emerging designer

In 1953, Saint Laurent won a competition for young fashion designers hosted by the International Wool Secretariat, which led to an invitation to Paris. There, he encountered Michel de Brunhoff, then editor-in-chief of French Vogue. Impressed by Saint Laurent’s sketches, de Brunhoff encouraged him to pursue a career in fashion design. Subsequently, Saint Laurent enrolled at the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, where he graduated at the top of his class and once again secured victory in the International Wool Secretariat contest, outperforming peers such as Karl Lagerfeld.

De Brunhoff facilitated Saint Laurent’s introduction to Christian Dior, who hired him immediately. Under Dior’s guidance, Saint Laurent honed his design skills. Initially tasked with accessories and studio duties, he gradually contributed original couture sketches that foreshadowed themes prominent in his later independent work.

In August 1957, Dior appointed Saint Laurent as his successor; however, Dior passed away unexpectedly in October that year. At only 21 years old, Saint Laurent assumed the role of head designer at the House of Dior. His spring 1958 "Trapeze" collection revitalized the fashion house financially and attracted global acclaim with its flared silhouettes and knee-length hemlines.

The fall 1958 collection sparked controversy by reducing skirt lengths by five inches, prompting criticism and leading to Marc Bohan being hired as an assistant. The spring 1959 lineup reinstated knee-length skirts and earned favorable reviews for its suits inspired by 1930s styles and sailor collars. Later collections featured hobble skirts (fall 1959) and beatnik-inspired looks (fall 1960), which met with negative press responses.

Saint Laurent’s fall 1959 collection showcased skirts that bloused over narrow bands at mid-knee for daytime wear and flared below the knee for evening attire. Although similar silhouettes had appeared previously in fashion history, critics found his versions excessively short and restrictive. The spring 1960 collection emphasized precise tailoring with suits, middy details, and smocks layered over slim skirts.

His fall 1960 collection proved to be the most contentious during his tenure at Dior, presenting short pouf skirts influenced by bohemian youth culture and named after fashionable cafés. The collection also included biker-style jackets crafted from luxurious materials such as crocodile and mink. This youthful approach alienated Dior’s traditional clientele and critics alike, marking it as Saint Laurent’s final collection for the house.

In 1959, Saint Laurent designed the wedding gown for Farah Diba upon her marriage to the Shah of Iran, underscoring his expanding global prominence.

Military Service and Health Challenges

In 1960, Saint Laurent was drafted into the French Army amid the Algerian War. After just 20 days, the psychological strain from hazing led to his hospitalization, during which he discovered he had been dismissed from Dior and succeeded by Marc Bohan. His condition deteriorated further, necessitating treatment with sedatives, psychoactive medications, and electroconvulsive therapy at Val-de-Grâce military hospital. Saint Laurent later linked this period to his subsequent struggles with mental health and substance dependency.

YSL

Following his discharge from the hospital in November 1960, Saint Laurent successfully pursued legal action against Dior for breach of contract. Together with industrialist partner Pierre Bergé and financial backing from American magnate J. Mack Robinson, cosmetics firm Charles of the Ritz, and others, they established the Yves Saint Laurent (YSL) fashion house. Numerous former Dior employees joined this new enterprise.

His debut collection in spring 1962 showcased sharply tailored suits with early cut-out designs, though critical reception was mixed. The fall 1962 collection received widespread acclaim as his finest work since Dior’s 1958 Trapeze line, drawing comparisons to Givenchy’s creations. This collection featured evening gowns inspired by Indian motifs, a palette dominated by dark hues, couture adaptations of fishermen’s smocks, and bohemian elements reminiscent of Paris’s Left Bank.

Throughout the 1960s, Saint Laurent introduced several influential trends: the beatnik style (1962), pea coats (1962), smock tops (1962–63), thigh-high boots designed by Roger Vivier (1963), the iconic women’s tuxedo suit Le Smoking (1966), and safari jackets (1967). He remained attuned to global youth culture—from London’s boutiques to the American hippie scene—aligning his designs with authentic female lifestyles amid societal transformations. Notably, following the 1968 French protests, he championed trousers for women, significantly advancing their fashion acceptance.

Saint Laurent transformed the fashion landscape by inaugurating YSL Rive Gauche in 1967—the first French couture house to offer a comprehensive prêt-à-porter (ready-to-wear) collection—intending to make fashion more accessible through affordable designs. The initial boutique opened on rue de Tournon in Paris’s 6th arrondissement; actress Catherine Deneuve was its first patron. He also created costumes for her films such as Heartbeat and Mississippi Mermaid.

In 1967, Éditions Tchou released Saint Laurent’s comic book La Vilaine Lulu, centered on a mischievous girl character inspired by his earlier sketches.

By the 1970s, Saint Laurent was recognized as a preeminent global designer who adapted his creations to meet contemporary women’s needs with collections that balanced elegance and wearability. Even his opulent Russian peasant-inspired lines emphasized comfort and functionality. In 1978, he introduced shoulder-padded silhouettes that came to define 1980s fashion.

While many of his collections were celebrated—such as autumn 1966’s debut of Le Smoking and the 1965 Mondrian series—others stirred debate. His spring 1971 collection revisited 1940s styles, attracting criticism for idealizing wartime austerity but ultimately influencing trends like broad-shouldered tailored blazers.

During this period, Saint Laurent was a fixture in Paris’s elite social circles and frequented venues like Regine's and Studio 54. He battled alcoholism and cocaine addiction while dividing his time between his Marrakech residence and Château Gabriel near Deauville, both adorned with décor inspired by Marcel Proust.

The prêt-à-porter division became highly lucrative, eventually surpassing haute couture revenues. However, the demand to produce multiple collections annually took a toll on Saint Laurent’s well-being. Although he and Bergé ended their romantic relationship in 1976, they continued collaborating professionally. His substance abuse intensified; at times he required assistance during runway presentations.

After pioneering voluminous shoulder-pad fashions in 1978 that dominated the following decade, Saint Laurent concentrated on a narrower range of designs featuring broad-shouldered jackets paired with slim skirts or trousers. This approach elicited mixed responses: some critics lamented diminished innovation while others valued its consistency. He was among the last designers to phase out shoulder pads by the late 1980s.

Following an underwhelming prêt-à-porter show in New York in 1987—highlighted by costly jeweled jackets shortly after the "Black Monday" stock market crash—Saint Laurent delegated ready-to-wear responsibilities to his assistants. Though still favored by loyal clients, media reviews increasingly described the line as lacking originality.

Later life

Saint Laurent drew inspiration from a diverse array of muses, many of whom were prominent personalities within fashion and society. Among the most significant was French model Victoire Doutreleau, who had the distinction of opening his debut runway presentation in 1962. Another influential figure was Loulou de la Falaise, daughter of a French marquis and the creative force behind the brand’s jewelry designs. Betty Catroux, the half-Brazilian offspring of an American diplomat, was often described as Saint Laurent’s "twin sister." The French actress Catherine Deneuve also played a key role as a muse, along with French model Danielle Luquet de Saint Germain, who inspired the legendary Le Smoking tuxedo suit. Additional notable muses included American-French artist Niki de Saint Phalle, Martinique-born model Mounia, Welsh-French model Lucie de la Falaise, renowned jewelry designer Paloma Picasso, Dutch actress Talitha Getty, American socialite Nan Kempner, Italian model Marina Schiano, French model Nicole Dorier who oversaw his runway productions, and French model Laetitia Casta, who appeared as a bridal figure in his shows from 1998 through 2001.

In 1983, Saint Laurent achieved the milestone of being the first living fashion designer to be honored with a solo exhibition at the prestigious Metropolitan Museum of Art. He was awarded the title of Commander of the Légion d'Honneur in 2001 by President Jacques Chirac and elevated to Grand Officier de la Légion d'honneur in 2007 under President Nicolas Sarkozy. Following his retirement in 2002, Saint Laurent gradually withdrew from public life. Together with Bergé, he founded a Paris-based institution aimed at safeguarding the legacy of the YSL brand, which houses an archive exceeding 15,000 objects and 5,000 garments.

Death

Saint Laurent passed away on 1 June 2008 at his home in Paris due to brain cancer. Shortly before his passing, he and Bergé formalized their relationship through a Pacte civil de solidarité (PACS) under French law. Upon receiving news of his terminal illness, Bergé and the attending physician decided it was best not to disclose this information to Saint Laurent, believing he would have difficulty handling the diagnosis. His funeral took place at Église Saint-Roch with a Catholic Requiem Mass attended by distinguished guests such as former Empress Farah Pahlavi, Bernadette Chirac, Catherine Deneuve, and President Nicolas Sarkozy accompanied by Carla Bruni.

His remains were scattered in Marrakech’s Majorelle Garden, a property co-owned with Bergé since 1980 that served as both inspiration and sanctuary. At the funeral, Bergé conveyed deep appreciation and lifelong devotion to Saint Laurent.

Legacy

In February 2009, an auction at Christie's featured 733 pieces from the extensive art collection amassed by Saint Laurent and Bergé, including masterpieces by Picasso alongside ancient Egyptian artifacts. The proceeds were intended to establish a new foundation dedicated to AIDS research, reflecting Bergé’s belief that without Saint Laurent, the collection’s significance had diminished.

The Chinese government sought to prevent the sale of two bronze heads taken during the Second Opium War. Despite legal opposition, these items sold for €15.7 million; however, payment was withheld by the anonymous purchaser later identified as Cai Mingchao from China’s National Treasures Fund. The statues remained under Bergé’s custody until François Pinault acquired them and subsequently returned them to China in 2013.

Henri Matisse's Les coucous, tapis bleu et rose set a record for highest auction price worldwide when it sold for €32 million during this event. The total revenue generated on the first day reached €342.5 million (£307 million). Later that year, another auction presented over 1,100 belongings from the couple’s Normandy residence, including Saint Laurent’s final Mercedes-Benz vehicle and Hermès luggage.

Forbes ranked Saint Laurent as the highest-earning deceased celebrity in 2009.

In 2022, the exhibition "Yves Saint Laurent Aux Musées" was showcased across six cultural venues in Paris, highlighting his enduring influence on fashion and art through his fusion of various artistic inspirations.

Museum

The childhood residence of Yves Saint Laurent in Oran was acquired by businessman Mohamed Affane and transformed into a museum, which officially opened its doors in 2022. The renovation maintained the original period furnishings and features approximately 400 of Saint Laurent's sketches, along with photographs from his early years.

Film

2002: David Teboul directed Yves Saint Laurent: His Life and Times
2002: Yves Saint Laurent: 5 Avenue Marceau 75116 Paris
2009: Pierre Thoretton's L'Amour fou
2014: Yves Saint Laurent, featuring Pierre Niney
2014: Saint Laurent, starring Gaspard Ulliel

Television

1965: Featured as a "mystery guest" on the American game show What's My Line? on October 24

Books

2014: Yves Saint Laurent: A Moroccan Passion, authored by Pierre Bergé with illustrations by Lawrence Mynott, published by Abrams
2017: Dior by YSL, written by Laurence Benaïm, with photography by Laziz Hamani, published by Assouline
2020: Yves Saint Laurent: The Impossible Collection, by Laurence Benaïm, released by Assouline

External links

Official website of the Yves Saint Laurent (brand)
Trapèze dresses at the Chicago History Museum Digital Collections
"Yves Saint Laurent, legendary designer and Pied Piper of fashion, dies aged 71", from The Guardian
Interactive timeline of couture houses and biographies of couturiers – Victoria and Albert Museum
Biography of Yves Saint Laurent
Yves Saint Laurent biography
"Yves Saint Laurent closes its doors" – BBC World, October 31, 2002
"All About Yves" – Jim Lehrer, PBS
"Yves Saint Laurent announces retirement" – CNN, January 7, 2002
"All About Yves: Celebrating 40 years as a couturier" – Time magazine