Hart Schaffner Marx

Template:Use mdy dates

Hartmarx Corporation

File:Hart Schaff max logo.png
Company type	Subsidiary
Industry	Consumer Goods
Founded	1887 (1887)
Founder	Harry and Max Hart
Headquarters	Des Plaines, Illinois
Area served	United States
Key people	Homi B. Patel (Chairman of the Board) (President) & (CEO)
Products	Textile - Apparel Clothing
Revenue	Increase US$ 564.87 Million (2007)
Operating income	Increase US$ 2.49 Million (2007)
Net income	Increase US$ -4.18 Million (2007)
Total assets	Increase US$ 269.55 Million (2007)
Total equity	Increase US$ 228.04 Million (2007)
Number of employees	3,800
Parent	Authentic Brands Group
Website	hartschaffnermarx.com

Hart Schaffner Marx is a United States-based producer of ready-to-wear men's clothing, currently owned by Authentic Brands Group, headquartered in New York City. The enterprise traces its roots back to a family operation established in Chicago in 1872 and was formally incorporated in 1911 under the name "Hart Schaffner & Marx". Presently, the company's headquarters are situated in Des Plaines, Illinois.

Origins

The beginnings of Hart Schaffner Marx reach back to 1872 when siblings Harry and Max Hart launched a modest men's apparel shop on Chicago's State Street, named "The Great Globe One-Price Clothier," with the business operating under the name Harry Hart & Bro.. In 1879, their brothers-in-law, Levi Abt and Marcus Marx, became partners, prompting a rebranding to Hart, Abt & Marx. Eight years later, following the departure of Marx and Abt, a cousin named Joseph Schaffner (1848–1918) joined the company, which was then renamed Hart, Schaffner & Marx.

In its initial phase, the firm specialized in manufacturing workwear that was retailed both through its own outlet and via other merchants across the Southern and Midwestern United States. Capitalizing on its wholesale operations, Hart, Abt & Marx secured contracts to supply garments to the U.S. military. After approximately 1880, as wholesale activities expanded beyond retail sales, the Chicago storefront was closed.

Throughout the late 19th century—during the 1880s and 1890s—the company transitioned toward producing higher-grade men's suits along with overcoats, raincoats, and trousers. These products were distributed wholesale to retailers initially in neighboring states surrounding Chicago before eventually reaching a national market. By spring of 1893, advertisements highlighted availability of suits tailored for both "stout" and "slim" body types.

20th-century history

In 1910, the firm was significantly impacted by the Chicago garment workers' strike, commonly referred to as the Hart, Schaffner, and Marx strike. This labor action resulted in enhanced worker conditions, the establishment of the first union contract featuring an arbitration clause, and ultimately led to the creation of the Amalgamated Clothing Workers of America.

File:HartSchaffnerMark JohnESheridan.png

Advertisement for Hart Schaffner & Marx by illustrator John E. Sheridan, 1919

On May 10, 1911, following years of consistent expansion, the partnership formalized its structure through incorporation. During World War I, the company pioneered tropical worsted suits and repurposed its manufacturing plants to produce military uniforms.

The year 1926 saw the company broaden its retail footprint by acquiring Wallach's, a prominent clothing chain headquartered in New York City, followed by the purchase of Chicago-based retailer Baskin in 1927. The firm again supplied military uniforms throughout World War II.

Throughout the 1950s and 1960s, growth continued via key acquisitions. In 1952, it absorbed Society Brand, a significant apparel manufacturer. Hickey Freeman, a distinguished men's clothing brand and retailer from Rochester, New York, was added in 1964; Jaymar-Ruby (known for Sansabelt) and Kleinhans followed in 1967. The acquisition of Buffalo-based manufacturer M. Wile occurred in 1969. However, a subsequent antitrust lawsuit resulted in a consent decree that prohibited further acquisitions without court approval for a decade.

Just before this restriction expired, the company purchased Intercontinental Apparel, the U.S. licensee for the Pierre Cardin brand. Expansion into women's apparel began with acquiring Bishop's men's shops and then Country Miss chain in 1981. In 1982, Kuppenheimer Manufacturing Company—retailers of affordable suits with 41 stores—was acquired for $25.8 million (~$Template:Format price in Template:Inflation/year). On November 1 of that year, the firm rebranded as Hartmarx Corporation, establishing a holding company structure overseeing its subsidiaries.

In July 1985, Hartmarx acquired Briar Neckwear, followed by casual suit jacket maker H. Ortisky in December 1986. The next year saw Hart Schaffner & Marx take over Anton's, a nine-store retail chain based in Detroit. In 1988, acquisitions included Boyd's, a small St. Louis retail chain, and Raleigh's, an upscale retailer located in Washington, D.C. February 1989 brought the addition of Biltwell Company, another clothing manufacturer. By 1992, ongoing financial losses led to divestiture of all retail operations except Kuppenheimer. The company later sold its Kuppenheimer chain with 91 stores and two tailored clothing factories in 1995.

The 1990s marked a shift toward offshoring production to reduce expenses. During this decade, Hart Schaffner & Marx closed ten domestic factories and relocated manufacturing to China, Mexico, and Costa Rica. Growth persisted through acquisitions such as bankrupt Plaid Clothing Group, Inc., a producer of men's tailored suits and sportswear in late 1996; Pusser's Ltd., known for nautical and tropical apparel lines like Pusser's of the West Indies in 1998; and Coppley, Noyes and Randall Limited—a leading Canadian men's tailored clothing manufacturer—in December 1998. The following August included acquiring Royal Shirt Company, a Canadian maker of men's and women's dress and sports shirts.

The brand received substantial attention during the 2008 Presidential campaign when then-Senator Barack Obama frequently wore its suits, including those custom-made for his acceptance speech and the inauguration ceremony in 2009. Obama cited a personal connection to the Chicago-based brand.

On January 23, 2009, Hartmarx Corporation and its U.S. subsidiaries filed for bankruptcy. At that time, Canadian and other international affiliates were not part of the bankruptcy proceedings. Employees threatened to occupy Hartmarx’s manufacturing plant if creditor Wells Fargo Bank attempted layoffs or asset liquidation. By June 22, 2009, five bids were submitted for company assets during bankruptcy auctions; bidders included Emerisque/SKNL North America, Affliction Clothing Co., Perry Ellis, and Versa Capital Management. Emerisque Brands UK partnered with SKNL North America to finalize acquisition of Hartmarx later that August.

Hart Schaffner & Marx became the primary brand under HMX Group, operating as a holding company. In 2012, following Chapter 11 bankruptcy proceedings, HMX divested most assets to New York–based Authentic Brands Group for an undisclosed sum.

During the COVID-19 pandemic, Hart Schaffner Marx’s facility in Des Plaines temporarily closed with approximately 300 employees furloughed. Upon reopening, workers produced thousands of face masks to support essential personnel.

Advertising

Hart, Schaffner & Marx were trailblazers in utilizing nationwide newspaper campaigns to promote ready-to-wear men's apparel, style guides, and various "point-of-purchase" promotional tools. Their menswear advertisements frequently featured models posed in natural, lifelike stances.

File:1880HartBroAdChigTrib.jpg

Advertisement for Harry Hart & Bros.' "Great Globe" One-Price Clothiers, Chicago Tribune (June 3, 1880), p.1.

The Hart, Schaffner & Marx brand was featured in dealer newspaper advertisements as far back as 1889, with phrasing indicating the company's reputation and merchandise were well-established within the industry. From the autumn of 1894 onward, retailers carrying their clothing displayed illustrated ads across the Midwest and Plains regions. The consistent style and wording of these advertisements imply that the company supplied dealers with customizable printing plates and example copy for local adaptation. Between 1895 and 1900, the firm published a fashion magazine/style booklet called Art in Dress, which was distributed through dealers and mailed directly to customers.

File:Leyendecker The Horse Show.jpg

J. C. Leyendecker, "The Horse Show," circa 1895-98, created for HSM's fashion publication Art In Dress

Starting in 1898, Hart, Schaffner & Marx began placing advertisements in widely circulated American magazines such as The Youth's Companion, Century, Saturday Evening Post, and Ladies' Home Journal.

From the early 1890s onward, the company engaged prominent illustrators to produce artwork for its advertising campaigns, style books, direct mail pieces, and retail posters. Notable artists included Henry Benjamin Wechsler, J. C. Leyendecker, Samuel Nelson Abbott, Edward Penfield, Herbert Paus, Leon Gordon, and John Sheridan. The marketing materials frequently showcased young, stylish men of college age—reflecting the primary demographic targeted by the company starting in the 1890s.

Branding

The origins of the Hart, Schaffner & Marx brand and its identity trace back to the company’s marketing campaigns in the early 1890s. A primary objective was the establishment and promotion of the "H. S. & M" trademark—a distinctive black rectangle featuring the letters "H. S. & M" in white gothic lettering—which became a recognizable symbol of the brand.

In 1966, television personality Johnny Carson appeared on stage wearing a turtleneck sweater paired with a collarless Nehru jacket during his Tonight Show monologue. Due to the immense popularity of this look, Hart Schaffner & Marx partnered to launch a casual suit collection under the Johnny Carson label, which was later expanded to include lines bearing the names of Bobby Jones and Jack Nicklaus.

During the 1960s, Hart Schaffner & Marx introduced the Austin Reed brand. In 1974, they debuted a tailored clothing collection under the Christian Dior name, followed by additional lines from Nino Cerruti, Allyn St. George, and Playboy. These collections were developed under licensing agreements with their respective designers and achieved considerable success as trendsetters in fashion. The designer Pierre Cardin was added to their portfolio in 1979. Later, in the late 1990s, two new labels—Perry Ellis and Daniel Hechter—were launched; Daniel Hechter targeted the popular-priced market segment, while Perry Ellis was positioned within the moderate price range. The company also introduced the Tommy Hilfiger line as part of its business casual offerings. Following the acquisition of Plaid Clothing Group, Inc. in 1996, Hartmarx expanded its brand lineup to include Burberry, Liz Claiborne, Evan-Picone, Palm Beach, and Brannoch.

In July 2016, David Hart designed a capsule collection for Hart Schaffner Marx’s Men's Ready-to-Wear Spring 2017 season titled Hart by Hart. This collection drew inspiration from photographs of tropical settings by photographer Slim Aarons.

See also

• Brooks Brothers
• J. Press
• Gant
• Paul Stuart

External links

• Company history on Funding Universe
• Profile of Joseph Schaffner